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Discussion Starter #21
For the love of god put the Kooks on while the engine is out.

This may help.

As much as I hate being without my bird, buying Kooks is on the plan. For the money, I may go with the MAC longtubes like in the thread here, and have one of the primaries modified to clear the steering shaft. They're a lot less expensive, but the Kooks would be so much nicer.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
So here's a question regarding the headers...

Do I install them while the engine is out, and lower it in with them attached, or do I install them while the engine is halfway in/out of the bay?

I'm guessing I should invest in some stage 8 locking fasteners and SCP's super soft exhaust gaskets?
 

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The Parts Guy
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I've always installed them as the engine is going into the bay. It's a very tight fit from the top. I'd recommend the Ford exhaust gaskets at the head.

 

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It'll be virtually impossible to do headers after the fact unless you were to anchor the engine from the top and drop the K member, which is an unnecessary step if the engine is already out.
 

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Well if long-tube headers are in the cards, that argues for dropping the subframe with the engine out the bottom, as long as you can get the body high enough to clear it. That way you can bolt the headers to the engine out of the car, and then lower the car on top of it without trying to fight everything.
 

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FYI - The newer front covers do not have the provisions for coil packs.

You can use your stock front cover but one bolt hole does not line up.

-Miller
 

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Discussion Starter #27
FYI - The newer front covers do not have the provisions for coil packs.

You can use your stock front cover but one bolt hole does not line up.

-Miller
Do I need to fill it with RTV or something?

I'd buy your motor, you're just too far from me.
 

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Do I need to fill it with RTV or something?

I'd buy your motor, you're just too far from me.
You can use RTV, that's how the motor I've got on the stand is currently. I do plan on swapping to a 94/95 front cover, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
You can use RTV, that's how the motor I've got on the stand is currently. I do plan on swapping to a 94/95 front cover, though.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Potentially dumb question...

Since the 2003 Mountaineer motor has Coil on Plug, will that make going Coil on Plug any easier? Could it be as simple as just rewiring the plug into the ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
No. Look up guitar maestro's conversion thread, you need to modify the wiring harness
I was just reviewing that.

So basically the only real advantage is a cleaner engine bay?
 

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And coils that will periodically go bad, instead of the stock ones that literally never go bad. In my opinion, not worth it.
 

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And coils that will periodically go bad, instead of the stock ones that literally never go bad. In my opinion, not worth it.
I'd agree with that if it weren't for the wires. I've had the worst luck with them, My last set of motorcrafts had two that simply lost all conductivity at random, and the set before that had three break trying to pull them off the plug, which like clockwork I gouge my hand on the fuel rails when they do give.

COP Coil goes bad, I just reach into my stash and swap that one out. No spending nearly $100 on plug wire sets for 1 bad wire, no rerouting, no mixing up order, no drama swapping them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
So I've been thinking (yes, that's the burning smell) about how to get more power...

Putting in a stock Mountaineer (Explorer) block with my already modified PI intake manifold on it. Going to get a set of headers, a tune for 91 octane, 180* thermostat, and go ahead and swap out every gasket on the motor, along with every sensor so I know they're all in good shape.

That said, I started thinking about electric water pumps. I understand that with an electric pump, it flows at a constant speed regardless of engine RPM, so radiator choice and the possibility of removing the thermostat entirely open up.

Pros/Cons of an electric water pump? Worth it to save a few horses, or should I just try and get them back another way?
 

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Only issue with electric pumps is motor life. Most are designed for track use so are not built to handle day in day out use (are not continuous use motor). Though with the OEMs going this route should become less of an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Only issue with electric pumps is motor life. Most are designed for track use so are not built to handle day in day out use (are not continuous use motor). Though with the OEMs going this route should become less of an issue.
I've been doing some reading, and the Maziere pumps are being designed to be a street driven replacement pump.

Some thinking would need to happen to put the right sized restriction in place of the thermostat to keep the engine at a relatively constant temperature.
 

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When mechanical water pumps fail, they leak, but they'll still circulate coolant, when electric pumps fail they do absolutely nothing, with no warning.

I wouldn't use an electric water pump on a street driven vehicle unless it's OEM and gone through the rigors of testing they put parts through to know with confidence that they'll last a hundred thousand miles under real world conditions. Few factory cars exist with them, which is telling. The exceptions are by in large(if not all AFAIK) Hybrids, in which case it's far less of a concern since the IC engine isn't always operating.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
When mechanical water pumps fail, they leak, but they'll still circulate coolant, when electric pumps fail they do absolutely nothing, with no warning.

I wouldn't use an electric water pump on a street driven vehicle unless it's OEM and gone through the rigors of testing they put parts through to know with confidence that they'll last a hundred thousand miles under real world conditions. Few factory cars exist with them, which is telling. The exceptions are by in large(if not all AFAIK) Hybrids, in which case it's far less of a concern since the IC engine isn't always operating.
Yeah, and the $400 they want for them is a little steep for me.
 
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