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The Parts Guy
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I wouldn't and don't have any qualms about running the Meziere pump on a DD. I would and do suggest retaining the thermostat however.
 

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Super Moderator
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I know people have had good luck with the Meziere pumps, but it still kind of scares me. If I was going to run one on a street car, I would try to figure out a way to wire in an audible alarm so that if the pump loses power, or if the current draw gets higher than normal, it will alert me BEFORE I happen to look down and see the temperature needle pegged.
 

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The Parts Guy
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And that's completely doable. Though I'd use a flow-meter instead.

That said, I installed my Meziere in 2006 with nary an issue to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
And that's completely doable. Though I'd use a flow-meter instead.

That said, I installed my Meziere in 2006 with nary an issue to date.
A flow meter instead of an alarm? Not a bad idea at all. I was thinking of a light or something to go with it, I'm good about checking gauges, but as my experience with my oil pressure gauge goes, having it not directly in front of me means it doesn't get checked as quickly.

Also, my white face gauges made it so I couldn't see the oil pressure light. Putting the black face on ASAP.
 

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The Parts Guy
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A flow meter to trigger a buzzer or light...as opposed to measuring current.
 

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50 years of Mercury Cougar 1967/2017
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Meziere pump in my heap since 2012.

Not DD, but a raced and driven to Fort Lauderdale beach
and South Beach on weekends.

They are only needed if you need drag strip cool downs between
rounds.
And I'm running the original stock radiator.

Otherwise save your money.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
It begins!



Picked this up at a garage sale today, was listed at $100, got it for $50.

Got a line on the motor, and perhaps the $$$ to get Kooks and cams as well. Planning on talking to MHS about a good set for my PI heads. I'm hoping the ones in my motor are good, as they are supposedly mildly ported. Going to get a 91 octane tune from Lasota Racing unless someone has a better choice.

I do need a list though. What head gaskets should I get? Intake Manifold gasket? I know I need to get a new CPS, probably a DPFE, any other sensors I should get while I'm at it? I have a new IAC and TPS I just installed last summer.

If I get the Kooks, do I need the 2.5" downpipe that SuperCoupePerformance sells too?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Get the Ford racing head changing kit, comes with new TTY bolts and head gaskets. Go OEM or Felpro intake gaskets
Will do.

Looking at MHS cams, I keep eyeing these.
Modular Head Shop 2V Camshaft Degree Service

I have a Mark VIII converter (2800 stall I think?), Jmod, 3.73's, and smaller diameter tires for more mechanical advantage. I know they recommend 3000 stall, but I am planning on putting a manual in next.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Aaaand.....

I'm going to start unbolting things next weekend. I need to unbolt the exhaust from the manifolds, drain the coolant, oil took care of itself, and disconnect the hoses, and the engine harness from the body harness right? Anything else I should do? I'm sure I need to remove the battery. Anything else?

Should I pull the transmission with the motor? If so, do I need to pull the driveshaft, or will it just slide out as I pull the engine out?

I will have help from a few guys more experienced than I, but trying to get prepared.
 

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Super Moderator
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I find it much easier to pull the motor by itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #52

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You have to have a engine hoist that goes really high if you want the tranny too.

Borrow a load balancer, it helps.

I bolt a chain across the back and the front, thru a bolt into the heads, and hook the load balancer to the middle of those chains.

Use a good chain, it's a hefty beast; about 550 pounds, iirc.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Will do.

I'm expecting to get $2500 to put towards the rebuild.

$300 for the engine, an 03 Mountaineer motor. Complete
$150 for the FRPP head changing kit, I plan to replace the head gaskets, intake gasket, etc. Also going to replace the CPS and DPFE just to be done. New oil pan gasket and also a new oil pan (in case mine is shot, will find out), along with all the goodies to replace the air conditioning is $500, $150 for the manifold to charge it/run vacuum, and $870 for the Kooks and the extra pipe to lead into my exhaust. Then an Xcal and a Lasota tune.

So, all told, looking about $2400.

What can I expect for power on a 91 octane tune with the PI block, heads, etc and no catalysts?
 

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Discussion Starter #56

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Discussion Starter #57
Made some purchases today...

Engine will be in my garage this week, waiting for the cash to deposit my account.

Ordered a 1 ton engine hoist with a 2 ton balancer and chains.
Ordered an Xcal 3 unlocked.

Last weekend I got an engine stand, will put the new motor on it.

Starting to come together!
 

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Super Moderator
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...

Ordered a 1 ton engine hoist with a 2 ton balancer and chains.
...
Make sure your hoist will do 600lbs with the boom fully extended; you need that. :)

It's hard to get it high enough in some geometries...
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Make sure your hoist will do 600lbs with the boom fully extended; you need that. :)

It's hard to get it high enough in some geometries...
Did some reading on it, for only $70 more I can get a 2 ton that can handle 1/2 ton (1000lbs) fully extended along with a 2 ton load leveler.

Canceling the first order, then will order the other one. Thanks for the advice!
 
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