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Discussion Starter #61
I have been searching the forums, I don't have a lift, my jack goes up 11", and while I can afford a set of jackstands that go up 23", I can't afford a jack that goes that high. That said, I've seen a couple of guys say that they have installed the kooks to the engine while it's out, and installed it from the top, but does that still require removal of the K?

All of the pics are non-functional, so I'm having trouble visualizing it.

What I thought I could do is get the motor partway in, then thread the headers in and tighten them up while they're out. Stage 8 locking bolts will be purchased, but is that viable plan?
 

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The Parts Guy
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No need to remove the K-member when installing the engine with the Kooks installed.

 

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Discussion Starter #63

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I have been searching the forums, I don't have a lift, my jack goes up 11", and while I can afford a set of jackstands that go up 23", I can't afford a jack that goes that high.
Wood blocks are your friend. I have an assortment of 2x4's and 2x10's. Sometimes I have to use two 2x10's stacked to get a car really high, basically two 10"x10"x2" pieces of wood.

I always use a piece of wood, even if I don't need the extra height, to keep from scratching the paint off the frame.

The cup on the jack makes an indentation in the wood to hold it in place. They do sometimes start to crack, just chuck it and make another.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Things are coming along. Picking up the engine today or tomorrow.

Since I'm getting it tuned for the headers and cams, is it worth it to get it tuned for a 180* thermostat? Will that make a difference at all? Car has up to now been running right around 200* on my aftermarket gauge.
 

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If you are putting in a 180 t-stat, have them tune for it. Really the only difference in the tune is when to turn the fan on, so it shouldn't cost you anything extra. Realistically though, you probably won't notice any difference in performance between running the 180 or the stock 195.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
If you are putting in a 180 t-stat, have them tune for it. Really the only difference in the tune is when to turn the fan on, so it shouldn't cost you anything extra. Realistically though, you probably won't notice any difference in performance between running the 180 or the stock 195.
That's my main question. I don't really need heat, the car doesn't get driven in the winter, spring, summer, and fall is all. I didn't know if the 180* would give more potential performance, or allow for any with the engine running cooler. Any downsides to running cooler than "stock"? Fuel economy issues, anything like that?

I didn't think it would make the tune cost more, more worried about it "costing" me any reliability or anything on the motor.
 

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The info I've read, due to thermal dynamics a lower Coolant temp results in less HP (more of the combustion temp goes into the cooling system). I personally give up this ~2-3% HP for greater cushion against overheating.

As with any lose in power, yes there is also an increase in emissions (this is why GM runs a 190°+ tstat) and reduction in fuel economy.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
The info I've read, due to thermal dynamics a lower Coolant temp results in less HP (more of the combustion temp goes into the cooling system). I personally give up this ~2-3% HP for greater cushion against overheating.

As with any lose in power, yes there is also an increase in emissions (this is why GM runs a 190°+ tstat) and reduction in fuel economy.
After I asked the question, I did a little googling myself and found several sources that said the same thing. Bearing that in mind, I'll keep the 195* unit I installed in October 2014.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
One other question...

Current plan is the Mountaineer motor, 195* thermostat, Kooks, MHS NA Stage 2 cams, going to convert to COP. I have the CAI properly being fed through the fenderwell, going to use my underdrive pulleys, no cats, full 2.5" exhaust.

What spark plugs should I use?
 

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The Parts Guy
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I'd run a 180* tstat, as it will allow a little more ignition advance. NGK TR6 plugs would work well with that setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Reading over the Explorer engine swap sticky.

If I convert to COP, I can use the explorer front cover right?

If not, and I leave it Coil Pack, I have to get a 94-95 front cover because the 96-97 won't seal properly? Or is there a port I can seal up with RTV? Will it be somewhat obvious as I do it, or should I just go ahead and use the Explorer cover?
 

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As I said way above about the explorer cover, it has no provisions for the current power steering pump mounting location, it mounts above it using the cylinder head bosses, rather than the block.nyou could make it work but you need to make a custom power steering line and cobble up a lower radiator hose extension for the necessary explorer filter adapter. Benefit is though no need for a remote oil filter anymore, it will be much more accessible.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
As I said way above about the explorer cover, it has no provisions for the current power steering pump mounting location, it mounts above it using the cylinder head bosses, rather than the block.nyou could make it work but you need to make a custom power steering line and cobble up a lower radiator hose extension for the necessary explorer filter adapter. Benefit is though no need for a remote oil filter anymore, it will be much more accessible.
I already have the correct braided hoses for the oil filter remote mount. But if I use the explorer front cover, why can't I just use the explorer power steering pump? I was planning on following your guide on the AN power steering line already.

My thinking was, just swap over the explorer power steering, use explorer belt routing, etc. Then, I shouldn't have to fuss with the covers too much.


Or, if none of that works out properly, will the 96-07 font cover bolt up? I suppose I just don't undestand if the motors all are essentially the same, why the covers don't interchange.
 

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There'd be no point to using a remote filter with the explorer timing cover setup, the Explorer filter adapter puts the oil filter right out front, and anyplace you'd be remoting it to from there couldn't be any more convenient... Unless you went 60s Ferrari style and mounted it in front of the intake manifold lol. The power steering pump itself you just reuse from your car, only the lines need to be modified, it's the same mounting pattern, it's just higher.

All bolts line up on the 96-97 cover except for the one right below the water pump. For whatever reason the Romeo cast blocks moved that boss on the block for 1996 and beyond, while Windsor(iron and aluminum, aka WAP) and Teksid cast blocks retained the 91-95 pattern, so when using the Explorer motor with said WAP block you'd need the older Romeo cover for all the bolt holes to line up. Or just half ass it and RTV the crap out of the misaligned bolt area :D
 

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Discussion Starter #77
There'd be no point to using a remote filter with the explorer timing cover setup, the Explorer filter adapter puts the oil filter right out front, and anyplace you'd be remoting it to from there couldn't be any more convenient... Unless you went 60s Ferrari style and mounted it in front of the intake manifold lol. The power steering pump itself you just reuse from your car, only the lines need to be modified, it's the same mounting pattern, it's just higher.

All bolts line up on the 96-97 cover except for the one right below the water pump. For whatever reason the Romeo cast blocks moved that boss on the block for 1996 and beyond, while Windsor(iron and aluminum, aka WAP) and Teksid cast blocks retained the 91-95 pattern, so when using the Explorer motor with said WAP block you'd need the older Romeo cover for all the bolt holes to line up. Or just half ass it and RTV the crap out of the misaligned bolt area :D
So even with my 1989 SC sway bar the Explorer oil filter setup will work fine? I know the Explorer cover doesn't have Coil provisions, but I can probably fab something up for that, if I don't go with the COP setup.
 

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As much as I hate being without my bird, buying Kooks is on the plan. For the money, I may go with the MAC longtubes like in the thread here, and have one of the primaries modified to clear the steering shaft. They're a lot less expensive, but the Kooks would be so much nicer.
It's 2 primaries, not 1.
 

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So even with my 1989 SC sway bar the Explorer oil filter setup will work fine? I know the Explorer cover doesn't have Coil provisions, but I can probably fab something up for that, if I don't go with the COP setup.
Sway bar shouldn't be an issue at all . Here's where the filter comes out(this is a 3V in a Foxbody but the filter adapter and belt routing is the same as the 2V Explorer)

 

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Discussion Starter #80
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