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Discussion Starter #81
Sway bar shouldn't be an issue at all . Here's where the filter comes out(this is a 3V in a Foxbody but the filter adapter and belt routing is the same as the 2V Explorer)

Will the underdrive pulleys I have swap over even though the belt routing is slightly different? I'll want to use an Explorer belt, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Yes and yes, the difference in size between the underdrive crank and wp equal out so the same belt can be used, just as is now.
THat's what I was hoping, and while I have the crank pulley off, I'll replace that seal as well.

Thanks!
 

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When you install it, make sure you miss the groove in the crank from the last seal. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Got a call from the salvage yard today. He pulled the motor and not only was it an iron block (someone had swapped the motor before it hit the junkyard apparently) but it also had a big hole in it where it threw a rod.

So no motor for me right now. :(
 

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Lame sauce man. Maybe that motor I showed you is still available? Though, it's pretty far from you IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Lame sauce man. Maybe that motor I showed you is still available? Though, it's pretty far from you IIRC.
I was on the computer hunting last night, my search-fu is very strong. Found some Explorer motors for $600, Aviators for $1100, one Explorer motor with 158K on it in Grand Marais (2 hours from me) for $300, but I have to pull it, and a 2005 Crown Vic motor with COP but missing an alternator for $350 only an hour from me. So even though it weighs the same as what I have now, I'll take it, cam it, headers, and plop it in the car once I do the head gaskets and other fun stuff to it, unless you guys think the 158k Explorer motor's weight loss is worth it.
 

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Got a call from the salvage yard today. He pulled the motor and not only was it an iron block (someone had swapped the motor before it hit the junkyard apparently) but it also had a big hole in it where it threw a rod.

So no motor for me right now. :(
Whoever owned that explorer previously REALLY must have been abusive to kill not one but TWO 4.6s catastrophically!


If I were in your boat(which I somewhat am, although I have a motor, na nana naa nah lol) I'd chose the most expediant solution to keep the car mobile. Once you down it for longterm projects with major missing parts it becomes very easy to prolong and lose interest in it, personally I know quite a few people whose projects went that way. Do the crown Vic motor(if it's truly good) and move the battery to the trunk to get weight off the nose(it ain't 80 lbs difference like the block but it's more than half)
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Whoever owned that explorer previously REALLY must have been abusive to kill not one but TWO 4.6s catastrophically!


If I were in your boat(which I somewhat am, although I have a motor, na nana naa nah lol) I'd chose the most expediant solution to keep the car mobile. Once you down it for longterm projects with major missing parts it becomes very easy to prolong and lose interest in it, personally I know quite a few people whose projects went that way. Do the crown Vic motor(if it's truly good) and move the battery to the trunk to get weight off the nose(it ain't 80 lbs difference like the block but it's more than half)
Well I'd be going from Iron block to Iron block, so there's essentially no weight difference right now. If I get the Explorer motor, then I save 80lbs, which is like free horsepower (even though a minor amount).

Pros on the Crown Vic motor is lower mileage, but the cons are it's been out for three months and I can't hear it run. Pros on the explorer motor are I can hear it run, it's only 150K on it, and it's lighter.

EIther way, I have to save up money for the headers/cams because while it's out, I may as well do it. I understand about letting projects fall by the wayside, but I want my car running again, so I'm scrimping and saving to buy stuff asap.

So, all else being equal, and costs being essentially the same since the $50 I'd spend on the CV motor would end up being gas money on the Explorer motor that is 2 hours away, should I go with the one I can listen to, or take a chance on the lower mile motor?

Also, I'm not planning on moving the battery anytime soon either way. I actually use my trunk, and my sub already takes up a large chunk of room that I had to talk myself into sacrificing. :)
 

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Well if you can hear it run, that would definitely be a motivator, just to be sure it doesn't have the same problem yours has. If it was a roll of the dice I wouldn't shell out more than the cheapest figure you mentioned, that's the main reason I leaned towards closest and cheapest(iron).

I didn't realize you had a sub box, yeah trunk battery with that would tighten things up a bit. Mine will occupy the same space the factory CD changer formerly occupied, so no real loss for me, rest of the system is stock jbl with the small factory sub box.
 

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I would tend to say go with the explorer motor, not so much because of the aluminum block, but because you can hear run. On a 4.6, mileage is almost irrelevant. I've seen 300K+ mile 4.6's torn down and show absolutely no signs of wear, and I've also see sub-100K mile ones with rod knocks and holes in the block due to beating on it, neglect, or running low on oil, so I would say a motor that you can hear it run, check the fluids, and even pull a valve cover off to look for any sludge or shavings or anything, prior to actually buying it and installing it in your car would be the better choice, unless of course the CV motor has extremely low mileage and comes with a warranty. Also, the fact that the motor has been out of the car for 3 months scares me somewhat because at that point there is no way to verify the mileage they are claiming it has.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Well if you can hear it run, that would definitely be a motivator, just to be sure it doesn't have the same problem yours has. If it was a roll of the dice I wouldn't shell out more than the cheapest figure you mentioned, that's the main reason I leaned towards closest and cheapest(iron).

I didn't realize you had a sub box, yeah trunk battery with that would tighten things up a bit. Mine will occupy the same space the factory CD changer formerly occupied, so no real loss for me, rest of the system is stock jbl with the small factory sub box.
Yeah, my sub isn't anything fancy... I'm no audiophile, I just want a little more bass than the 6x8's can provide to "fill" the music up.
I'm running an MB Quart 12" dual voice coil in a sealed box, I think it can handle 480W or so. I have an old cheap amp that was in the car when I bought it, a 100W two channel I'm running bridged and I don't have the sub very loud, just enough to give some "thump" when I turn up a good song. :)

I got the sub and box for around $70 new from some stereo place in New York off of Ebay. I know I'm making the audio guys skin crawl, but it does what I need.

The main reason I want the explorer motor (other than weight) is the fact I can hear it run. I don't trust a motor that's been sitting God knows where in the sticks of Minnesota for three months.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
I would tend to say go with the explorer motor, not so much because of the aluminum block, but because you can hear run. On a 4.6, mileage is almost irrelevant. I've seen 300K+ mile 4.6's torn down and show absolutely no signs of wear, and I've also see sub-100K mile ones with rod knocks and holes in the block due to beating on it, neglect, or running low on oil, so I would say a motor that you can hear it run, check the fluids, and even pull a valve cover off to look for any sludge or shavings or anything, prior to actually buying it and installing it in your car would be the better choice, unless of course the CV motor has extremely low mileage and comes with a warranty. Also, the fact that the motor has been out of the car for 3 months scares me somewhat because at that point there is no way to verify the mileage they are claiming it has.
My plan is to pull the oil pan (since I need to swap it anyway) and check the bearings, pull the valve covers and check them, the heads to replace the head gaskets and check out the bores, etc.

I won't be "rebuilding it" but I will review everything.
 

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... I just want a little more bass than the 6x8's can provide to "fill" the music up....
You got it right; adding a sub, and filtering the low frequencies out of the 6x8's helps a lot on the overall sound.

1x 12" is what I'm using; I'm not trying to make the change jump out of the cars beside me's ashtray. :)
 

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Yeah, I was the same way. I'm always after something that could pass as stock so once I realized the earlier years came with a sub factory I had to have one. So I ended up with the enclosure, rebuilt it, and have just enough low end to satisfy my desires. :)
 

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Looking at car-part.com, there are a few 09-11 Crown Vic engines within a few hundred miles of you that have less than 70k and are $700 or less. Personally, I would go for the newest and lowest milage engine I could get my hands on. A few hundred dollars would be worth the piece of mind to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
So pardon the plumbing tape, it's a temporary means to secure the loose items in the trunk. Sub is attached to the rear shock tower brace and the side carpeting. Have a backup bottle of 50/50 and a quart of oil on the driver side rear.


Can't see the sub itself, but this is the box and the amp, which I attached directly to the box to save space and make the wiring a little simpler. There's also a portable air compressor that Traveler was kind enough to leave in the car tucked in behind the shock brace.


On the passenger side I have my emergency kit (first aid, flashlight, etc) and a fire extinguisher.


And here is my brand new, just put together last night 2 ton hoist with 2 ton load leveler and my new to me engine stand. Both fold, both are pretty nice from what I can tell. The engine stand I got at a yard sale. They wanted $100 for it, but I showed them I could go to Harbor Freight and get a brand new one for $90. So they asked for $50. I took it home. :)


And my new to me SCT x3. It is unmarried, I already plugged it into my computer to power it up and make sure. So now I just need my code off my PCM and I can get a tune. Thinking of getting Lasota to do it. Lonnie did the tune on the car now, but it's an add on chip, and he never replied to me about getting it reprogrammed. He did the tune on my last Thunderbird, and my 99 Mustang GT. Never got to use the Tbird tune, as the car was totaled before the PI swap was performed. If y'all have any recommended tuners, I'm listening.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Oh, and if anyone wants them, I have a clean, no rips, grey 97 LX set of front and rear seats. Bases are off of the 91 or 92 SC seats I installed in their place, but I can leave them off so you can put your own bases on.
 
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