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Discussion Starter #161
Can't you start cleaning engine first before you start putting it together? It's something I'd do so that my engine looks as purdy and shiny as possible before it goes into the engine bay. If you do, brake cleaner....and lots of it....will be your best friend :)
Oh yeah, there's all kinds of stuff to do before I get the cams, I just meant the whole "getting it together" as in dropping it in the car, flashing the tune, and firing it up.

I need to autopsy the old motor, see what died and what is still usable. Put in a new oil pump, water pump, swap oil pans, get new sensors, bolt up the AC, get the stuff to charge the AC, learn how to do the timing, etc.

I'll buy a good supply of brake cleaner and go to town too. Should I tape off any ports, or doesn't that matter at this stage? Might paint the motor, but I do know that'll require taping things off.
 

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Takes 1 minute and 3 feet of tape to tape them shut, cheap insurance. I spent half a day cleaning out dust and leaves that accumulated in my 4Vs intake ports during the brief period I left it at the wrecker's warehouse(should have just left the intake on in hindsight).

If you paint it mask around the machined areas, all of them, and prep prep prep prep. With the huge heat cycles of engines if there's a spot that the paint hasn't bonded to it's going to flake off immediately. So get out the brushes, soap, degreasers and mag wheel cleaners(those etch the block). Personally though, aluminum block, aluminum heads = leave bare. You can't see them anyway in this chassis.
 

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Takes 1 minute and 3 feet of tape to tape them shut, cheap insurance. I spent half a day cleaning out dust and leaves that accumulated in my 4Vs intake ports during the brief period I left it at the wrecker's warehouse(should have just left the intake on in hindsight).

If you paint it mask around the machined areas, all of them, and prep prep prep prep. With the huge heat cycles of engines if there's a spot that the paint hasn't bonded to it's going to flake off immediately. So get out the brushes, soap, degreasers and mag wheel cleaners(those etch the block). Personally though, aluminum block, aluminum heads = leave bare. You can't see them anyway in this chassis.
For me though, even if it won't ever be seen, you'll know if the work was done right and not half assed.
 

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Gotcha. That works too. Painting gives it another type of nice look, but painting is also another layer of work that is completely optional and will add cost to the overall build, even if it's minuscule in comparison to the cost of the overall build.
 

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Discussion Starter #166
So guys, give me a realistic estimate based on what I'm installing for crank horsepower.

Explorer block, PI heads.
MHS Stage 2 PI NA cams, degreed with TFS adjustable gears.
Kooks 1.75" primary, 3" collector headers necking down to 2.5" mandrel bent dual exhaust with midmount dual in/out magnaflow and chambered mufflers at the pipe exits. No catalysts.
24# injectors
Underdrive pulleys
.5" plenum spacer (it's already on the car, don't hate!)
75mm Throttle body and elbow
Don Lasota canned tune until I get a dyno tune

I'm hoping for around 320hp at the crank. Seem realistic?
 

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Discussion Starter #167
And she's OUT!





On the good news front, I was able to spin the crank via long breaker bar to get the TC unbolted, but she wasn't cranking via starter due to loss of oil, so the oil pan should HOPEFULLY come off tomorrow, and we'll see what we see.

More pics will follow
 

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Does this mean you'll probably be able to restore the engine after the donor engine is put in? Or will you take off the goodies first and then scrap the rest?
 

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Discussion Starter #170
It is looking salvageable so far. I started the autopsy today.

Here's a few pics...

Water Pump, looks pretty good, much better condition than the one on the Explorer block. May just swap this one over.


Passenger side head, cams look good, but what's that about the forward girdle?


THAT doesn't look good. What would cause this?


Reference picture of the studs placement.


Ever hear of doctors leaving surgical equipment in the patient? I have a feeling that happened here. WTF is this, and what's it doing in my valvetrain? I know I haven't dropped anything down there!




Metalpalooza in the oil pan...


Bearing surfaces?


All conrods present and accounted for. That's good!


Pick up screen isn't doing so hot.





I'm not going to make a coffee table, nowhere to put it.

For removing the heads, do I need it at TDC? Does the front cover need to be off to get the heads off? Any special trick to removing the cam gear?
 

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That water pump doesn't look so hot to me, plus it's open vane.

The carnage to me looks like it may be either failed cam bores and/or piston, the metal in the oil pan looks aluminum. Are all 16 valves accounted for?

Yes take the timing cover off, you don't need to remove the cam sprockets, just compress the tensioners and lock em with a paper clip, the guides can then be removed giving full slack to the chain.

Before pulling the chains though I'd check where the timing's at, I'm thinking PTV on cylinder 1, or bad detonation. Hey, have you pulled the spark plugs yet? Those will tell a story.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
That water pump doesn't look so hot to me, plus it's open vane.

The carnage to me looks like it may be either failed cam bores and/or piston, the metal in the oil pan looks aluminum. Are all 16 valves accounted for?

Yes take the timing cover off, you don't need to remove the cam sprockets, just compress the tensioners and lock em with a paper clip, the guides can then be removed giving full slack to the chain.
I haven't looked closely at the valves yet. Will pull them Wedneday or Thursday. I'm off all week, but we have plans tomorrow, and my wife is off Wednesday too.
 

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The front cover needs to at least be loose to pull the heads, so you might as well pull it off completely. The motor does not need to be at any particular position to pull the heads. That cam girdle is part of the cam caps, so to replace it you will need to have the cam bore on that head align bored, which given the price of good used PI heads, unless these ones were ported, it probably isn't worth fixing them. Same goes for the bottom end, with all stock stuff it wouldn't be cost effective to rebuild it, and if you are going to build up a bottom end, might as well start with an aluminum block.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
The front cover needs to at least be loose to pull the heads, so you might as well pull it off completely. The motor does not need to be at any particular position to pull the heads. That cam girdle is part of the cam caps, so to replace it you will need to have the cam bore on that head align bored, which given the price of good used PI heads, unless these ones were ported, it probably isn't worth fixing them. Same goes for the bottom end, with all stock stuff it wouldn't be cost effective to rebuild it, and if you are going to build up a bottom end, might as well start with an aluminum block.
I have a complete 2003 Explorer motor sitting right next to it, so if it's effed up, it's getting scrapped or sold as a core. Not really planning on rebuilding it, just doing the autopsy while I wait for my new headers, new cams, etc.

How do I tell if the motor mounts are good? They wiggle a little, but they're rubber, so I figure they may be useable. Had no issues with them so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
That water pump doesn't look so hot to me, plus it's open vane.

The carnage to me looks like it may be either failed cam bores and/or piston, the metal in the oil pan looks aluminum. Are all 16 valves accounted for?

Yes take the timing cover off, you don't need to remove the cam sprockets, just compress the tensioners and lock em with a paper clip, the guides can then be removed giving full slack to the chain.

Before pulling the chains though I'd check where the timing's at, I'm thinking PTV on cylinder 1, or bad detonation. Hey, have you pulled the spark plugs yet? Those will tell a story.
Got a part number for a closed vane water pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #177

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Discussion Starter #179

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The long pulley looks like a Devo hat; the short one looks like a Heisenberg hat. :)

Stock is Devo-esque. :grin2:

Heisenberg:


Devo:





:rofl:
 
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