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Discussion Starter #1
Finally completed the PI cam swap tonight. It took quite a while because we ran into alot of unexpected problems...

First of all the AFM tool is kind of a piece of crap. It does work but it's flimsy as hell and ours actually started cracking at the weld. What we ended up doing was just having one person devoted to holding the cam gear with their hands. This worked EXTREMELY well because the damn tool wasn't in the way the whole time. For those out there that are looking to swap cams you really dont need the AFM tool, just an extra PAIR of hands.

Secondly it was a bit of a pain the arse to get the cam gear back on to the cam. What we ended up doing was pulling the rockers out and bleeding the lifters. We installed the cam and cam gear FIRST (installed cam bolt as well) then after bleeding the lifters we inserted the rockers. This was by FAR the best way to do the swap. By keeping the rockers and lifters in you risk scoring the bearings.

For those newbies out there the cam swap isn't a piece of cake. You will atleast need one extra person with you to do the swap, two more would be much better. It is not as easy as unbolt valve covers, cam gears, girdle, install cam, reverse process. There is alot of crap you have to get out of the way, i found the valve covers especially painful to get out because there is little room on the driver side because of the vacuum booster and the passenger side because of the fuel lines and huge ass wiring harness.

You need a crap load of extensions and swivel heads in 1/4" and 3/8" drive. I was lucky because we have every damn tool out there so i didn't have a problem finding just the right extension or socket. However, i couldn't imagine doing this swap with crappy craftsman ratchets and combination wrenches.

Lastly the car does seem a little faster above 2000. But i have not dropped the hammer completly yet. Mostly 1/2 throttle runs for now. I will update after i step on it full throttle....
 

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MaleWhore
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if you have exhaust on ur car, its also easly noticeable that the tone changed...
 

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i will agree that it was diffenitly not fun, its an extremly time consuming project. the valve covers had to of been the biggest pain in the A**!!!!! but once it was off the real fun began... i used the AFM tool on the drivers side it worked out pretty well. bleeding down the lash adjusters took some time but it helps when you need to pop the rollers back in. the passenger side was alittle bit easier or so i thought:rolleyes:. i removed all the valve cover bolts and little did i know i needed to make a run to the parts store for fuel line disconnect tools, i had to figure out how to release the line pressure because i didn't before i started taking the car apart. so i just grabed a crap load of shop towels and placed them over and under the lines. after all that no fuel came out :confused: weird right?
then i had to figured out how to move the huge wiring harness. after 2 hours of that i finally got the valve cover off. the AFM tool sort of worked but i just decided to get my dad out there and hold the timing gear. after about 17 hours and two days of taking my time i am happy with the way the car drives. it idles so much better. and the smootheness of the engine in the way it climbes in the RPMS was greatly improved. as for putting the foot through the firewall test, was pretty fun. i did that a couple days after babying the car, the power was very noticeable. i do have other mods that im sure helped it along, true duals 2.5 mid mount DI/DO magnaflow, CAI, Mustang intake plenum and throttle body. all i need now is the pi intake manifold, 80mm 02 mustang MAF, and one of lonnies tunes, gears, the list goes on, and on. :rolleyes:
 

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I still find it easier and less risky to take off the front cover, even though there is a lot involved doing it that way, it can still be done in a day with the right tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The exhaust tone definatley changed especially at WOT. Seems quieter at idle though? Maybe that's just me.

sik97bird: i actually was able to do it without taking the fuel lines off. I just unplugged the 42 pin engine harness and fed it under all the a/c and fuel lines and tucked it out of the way... That enabled me enough room with the help of one other person to BARELY get that valve cover off. One trick i learned was to use a little RTV on the valve cover gaskets so they stick to the valve cover while your manuevering it into place. Trust me theres alot of manuevering, especially if your doing this on your own.

I just hope everybody knows that this swap isn't as easy as many say it is, especially if you've never done anything like this before. I've done cam swaps in the past put they've all been push rods, this 4.6 was my first cam swap on an OHC. I'm not trying to discourage a newbie but don't expect to do this swap with some craftsman 1/4 drive ratchet set and in 4 hours. You have to remove a crap load of other things and do alot of figuring out. Reading tutorials online doesn't give an accurate portrait of what you have to do.

Lastly i went out last night for a test drive. The idle is much smoother and it revs up much nicer and freer. I will have to say that i'm a bit dissappointed of the gains at half throttle. But the gains at full throttle are noticeable, it tachs up much quicker and the engine roars rather than purrs. However, i really think these cams need the PI intake to gain their full potential. Hopefully that's next, but after this cam swap it may be held back for a while. I dont think i'm ready to use up an entire day just yet.
 

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i tryed getting it off with out removing the fuel lines.. i fought with it for a good 45min. maybe because i have new motor mounts and the motor acually sat about a 1/2in higher then normal who knows but i don care the cams are in nothing broke nothing leaks... i guess taking your times pays off in the end;)

i have noticed that the exhaust tone definatley changed as what sCrEaMiN BiRd said quieter at idle and just a loud roar at wot.
so your not the only one thats hearing things!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's probably the difference then because on mine that valve cover just cleared. I mean it was hairline close.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Went on another test drive. Very impressed with the results so far. Tonight i got to go a little furthur in my testing of the car and so far i'm liking what i'm feeling and hearing here. I wouldn't go as far to say that the car is fast now but it definatley has a noticeable increase in power. Surprisingly the biggest gains seem to be in the upper range of the RPMs. The gains being in the upper RPM's really surprised me because i wasn't expecting ANY gains up top because i figured the NPI intake would restrict the air like a MF.

I would say that the gain is something in the 15hp range, which is pretty impressive considering it doesn't change the driveability of the car (it in fact makes it run better) it can be done for around $100, and it's not a week long project to complete. Now that i've felt these gains i'm really looking forward to doing the PI intake and an SCT tune. Hopefully by the end of the year...:D
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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Nobody listens....It's been said too many times that the AFM tool is a POS,and that the swap will yield approx 13 rwhp,and 18 ft-lbs.
JL
 

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MaleWhore
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+1 on the afm tool not being worthwhile
 

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i didn't purchase mine well i pitched in about 15 bucks for the tool my buddy with a 2003 mustang gt pitched in for the other half since we were both doing cams swaps i figured i just help him out. but for some weird reason the tool worked great for him. only worked well for me on the drivers side. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry about the cam tool, glad you got everything to work out.
Ahh no problem. I wasn't trying to poke at you or anything. The AFM tool does work, i just felt that it was easier to just use your hands. It's not so much useless, it's just not needed if you have a helper with you thats all...

Johnny Langton: I dont really think the tool is a POS, i just think that there are easier ways of holding the cam gear thats all. Are those gains you posted with NO supporting mods?
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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Ahh no problem. I wasn't trying to poke at you or anything. The AFM tool does work, i just felt that it was easier to just use your hands. It's not so much useless, it's just not needed if you have a helper with you thats all...

Johnny Langton: I dont really think the tool is a POS, i just think that there are easier ways of holding the cam gear thats all. Are those gains you posted with NO supporting mods?
That tool is a POS-the OEM Ford tool is the original,and actually works-while AFM(like every other crap vendor) is out to make a buck off of an OEM idea.
IMO-if you don't pull the front cover-you're half-assing it.
My car had minimal bolt-on mods. 13/18 was the result with no other changes.
"Supporting mods"...you sound like you've been listening to Mustang owners.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That tool is a POS-the OEM Ford tool is the original,and actually works-while AFM(like every other crap vendor) is out to make a buck off of an OEM idea.
IMO-if you don't pull the front cover-you're half-assing it.
My car had minimal bolt-on mods. 13/18 was the result with no other changes.
"Supporting mods"...you sound like you've been listening to Mustang owners.
JL
Well for me the AFM tool DID work. Obviously i never used the real OEM ford tool so i can't speak on that but i'm sure it works well considering it's OEM.

I'll agree with you on the front cover. This is the first time i have done a cam swap on ANY car without pulling the front cover. This time around i just wanted to try swapping cams without pulling the front cover, something different and something else that i have learned now.

That's pretty impressive i would say as far as gains. I stated 15HP as 15HP at the crank, but if you dynoed at 13rwhp gain maybe it's closer to 20 at the crank. Hard to say. Supporting mods is just what i call it. Didin't know that i would be accused of "listening to Mustang owners" by saying supporting mods...
 

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The true specs on the PI cams vs NPI cams vary from site to site but. Most have listed the PI cams as having shorter duration but the higher lift for better low range torque. So if that is true it would be why its quieter at idle. I wouldnt think it would be that quieter but crower cams lists oem specs. NPI adv duration 233/242 and Pi at 233/239
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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The true specs on the PI cams vs NPI cams vary from site to site but. Most have listed the PI cams as having shorter duration but the higher lift for better low range torque. So if that is true it would be why its quieter at idle. I wouldnt think it would be that quieter but crower cams lists oem specs. NPI adv duration 233/242 and Pi at 233/239
The spec vary because most people have never actually checked the cams themselves. I checked several sets, and found them all within a degree or two or each other,with just the lift being different. It's so minimal-I say it's just in production tolerance.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just remembered i didn't put anti seize on the cam girdle bolts... is that going to be a problem later? The bolts had SOME oil on it, i would think that would help prevent against electrolosis but i'm not sure. I put anti seize on everything else that went into the head though. Thanks for any help.
 

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High-Mileage 4.6L Thrasher
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Just remembered i didn't put anti seize on the cam girdle bolts... is that going to be a problem later? The bolts had SOME oil on it, i would think that would help prevent against electrolosis but i'm not sure. I put anti seize on everything else that went into the head though. Thanks for any help.
No need.I've never done that,and I've also never torqued a single one of those bolts.
JL
 
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