TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
523 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
just curious at the difficulty of doing these

found several sets in the junkyards around here and wondered how long it would take to get them off

ive never messed with the air ride setup before as compared to the standard coil springs

most searches came up empty for what i was looking for
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,168 Posts
Once you deflate the air bags, it's just like on a TBird.

The time will vary depending on the grunge level of the bolts and the tools you have (i.e., a northern car, like you'd see, and few of the proper tools == all day affair, down here with my balljoint splitter and an impact == all EIGHT control arms, all four spindles, and even the diff in under 4 hours ... )

The biggest difference you'll find is, once it's deflated, you're not worried about the spring pressure. I can work the rear bags out without removing the LCAs, for that matter. Can't get the rear springs out that way ... :diablo:

Now, which control arms are you talking about?

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
523 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
the aluminum rear control arm's that swap over to thunderbirds/cougars

and people also always ask for the diff's
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,165 Posts
If you'd rather not have to pull a set of grungy control arms. I've got a set sitting in my garage complete with the aluminum spring adapters.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,168 Posts
The BIGGEST problem I've found is finding a wrench to handle the 40mm nut on the front.

I use a pipe wrench (!!) for my take aparts.

I don't really recommend that, though ...

Second note: If it's air-bagged, release the air pressure BEFORE you start removing it (disconnect the air feed connector, the air will hiss right out and it becomes MUCH easier to remove.)

RwP
 

·
PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
Joined
·
3,868 Posts
I use a huge adjustable wrench to handle the 40 mm nut. Its best to jsut take the whole knuckle brake and both crontrl arms. Its just barely light enough to pick up for me anyway and set it on something that rolls. THis way you dont deal with the damn tamper bolts or wrestling the brakes apart on your car. It works like a complete unit this way. Its tricky to jack it up to the car but I did it with just a racing jack. You get the better halfshafts and both the lighter arms and disk brakes all win for the standard LX. Plus once these 2 units are out of the way the aluminum diff is cake to drop. Plus if its a 93 the 1 piece aluminum DS almost comes right out with a little lowering of the tank. DO do these things requires some handy tools the right sockets/breaker bars make it easy. Its easier with 2 people but I only had help on raising during install or dropping during removal. Getting just the LCA is the main reason people go for this mod but those tamper proofs can be impossible to get off in the yard if put in the same direction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
523 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
splattered- i went today to look at a set i dont see the 40mm nuts? i saw 2 21mm bolts for the pivot bolts that secure the arm to the frame

18mm for the shock to arm
the upper arm- spindle bolt
2 lower arm to spindle bolts with the torx bit heads
sway bar link and the airbag
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,168 Posts
splattered- i went today to look at a set i dont see the 40mm nuts? i saw 2 21mm bolts for the pivot bolts that secure the arm to the frame

18mm for the shock to arm
the upper arm- spindle bolt
2 lower arm to spindle bolts with the torx bit heads
sway bar link and the airbag
Look at the nut on the FRONT side, attached to that bolt on the LCA/frame side.

NOT the one that does the toe adjust.

On the TBirds I've seen in the yard, one side is a more standard nut, the other the 40MM. On the Mark VIIIs, BOTH are the 40MM.

If yours aren't 40MM, then you got lucky ;)

RwP
 

·
PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
Joined
·
3,868 Posts
Did you see the LCA to spindle bolts? If you didnt then you are missing the point of attack the inner control arm bolts. If you find the rear toe links the 40mm nuts are right next them. start looking at pictures on line of the IRS. If you are getting confused and cant mentally picture the IRS then this is a real complicated headache. But with some time spent on knowin what and where everytihg is it simply becomez an exercise in getting dirty. Its not hard but you need to be familiar with the parts. Youll need a huge adjustable wrench and a 22,20,24,19,17,18 mil stuff cant remember all the sizes. But I use a 2 foot breaker bar to get this stuff loose. You dont need super tools just a few.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,902 Posts
When we did the coil swap on the Mark, the only thing that went wrong when taking off the aluminum arms was that the guy helping me tried to remove one of the LCA to knuckle bolts by using an impact on the torx head and holding the nut instead of holding the torx and turning the nut. He broke one of my favorite torx bits (I think it was a t-50). Ah, we had many good times together up until that day. Other than this, it was fairly straight forward. If you want to deflate the bags really fast, make sure the frame is supported with the tires off the ground and remove the air solenoid from the bag. Luckily his bags were already collapsed when we started this job. Good luck and keep us posted!
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top