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Do you consider your car reliable


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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
I've had my car for 6.5yrs. When I got it it had 46k on the clock, and its currently about 125k. Appart from one battery failure, its always been 100% reliable. I recently had an ecu failure (detailed here: http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=137760) which is the first time the car's ever really let me down. Now that I know what caused the problem, I think I'm back to believing it is dead reliable.

I just wondered whether other people on here consider their cars 100% reliable given that the newest one is about 15yrs old now? Or are you constantly waiting for the next thing to go wrong??
 

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PostSlut
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i daily drive a 98 buick lesabre.
I got it with a locked up motor......fixed it, and have put over 10,000 miles on it since.....i don't think twice about getting in it and going anywhere.
 

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I voted most of the time because , shes left me on side of the road once. Other than that I know 100% I will make my destination
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah I went for 100% just based on the last 6.4 yrs :)
 

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I said most of the time because its left me stranded once. The thermal stat failed and the engine wasn't getting enough anti-freeze, I'm sure it could have easily made it home but I didn't want to push it. I did have to replace the back right wheel bearing last year but other than that all the little stuff I've done has been basic maintenance.
 

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WOT Junkie and avid corn burner
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I've had quite a few things replaced on my Tbird. Never left me stranded though. The worst that has happened was the serp. belt decided to shred itself. Fortunately, I was maybe a mile from home. I was able to make it to my house with the temp gauge 3/4 the way to hot. I've kept myself from being stranded so far by keeping an eye on everything for signs of failure.
 

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100% reliable is subjective, for sure. But it's close

What I've found is through 2 PREVIOUS 93 3.8L With odo's totalling nearly 500,000.. Of which I added 225k
- before that I had many Fox Mustangs, all of which were bang reliable, and that includes the SVO.

If I pay attention it never let's me down and breaks at most convenient spot/location possible..
I've had quite a few things replaced on my Tbird. Never left me stranded though. The worst that has happened was the serp. belt decided to shred itself.... I've kept myself from being stranded so far by keeping an eye on everything for signs of failure.
Ditto: just BEFORE only exit within ten miles, top of which was a NAPA garage. Why'd it shred? Because I didnt look close.. raking brain it was 150, 000 miles. Assuming PO had changed it.
I have story after story on that. And that includes fault symptoms calling for engine or tranny rebuild which I addressed with fluid products. And never had to address, henceforth.

On the Blazerforum I tell them they all need one ford in their driveways to go get parts. Or they could buy two additional chevvies.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
On the Blazerforum I tell them they all need one ford in their driveways to go get parts. Or they could buy two additional chevvies.
Haha, I like it! I bet that went down well!
 

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Premium Member
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I say 100% because I know when it needs oil added, etc.

If someone who knows nothing about cars owned her, I'm not sure they would last 6 months! These are old cars, things fail!

Now, once I get the rebuilt engine done and installed - I'd trust anybody to keep it years without issues. I already know most if not all of the weak points and have/will address them all.
 

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I didn't vote, just because of what I do with mine. I'm always changing or refining something. But like I say, and I know this is gonna make me sound like a dick, I push mine way harder than most of the other 'Birds here.

Now my Camry, on the other hand, is spot on. But it's a 'Yota. Toyota. Reliable. Not inspiring.
 

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I didn't vote, just because of what I do with mine. I'm always changing or refining something. But like I say, and I know this is gonna make me sound like a dick, I push mine way harder than most of the other 'Birds here.

Now my Camry, on the other hand, is spot on. But it's a 'Yota. Toyota. Reliable. Not inspiring.
Yes, because we all know how reliable Toyota's are.

Didn't they have the biggest recall in history with like 4 million vehicles? :D


I'm just kidding with you. Just look at Toyota's history in general - they have MUST LOWER repairs than any other vehicles. I just think Toyota got complacent and are riding the coat tails of their past history in recent times.
 

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Yeah, mine's old enough, it's just a simple, reliable, little econobox. And it has this strange thing called a "throttle cable." It's amazing, it doesn't get stuck wide open. And even if it did, the brakes are strong enough to stop it even at WOT.

All it's needed is a timing belt/water pump. Why they ran the water pump on the timing belt I'll never know. And a set of brakes
 

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I put most of the time. These cars are too old to be 100% of the time.
 

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One's car can only be as reliable as the person maintaining it.

That said, I voted "most of the time" because 3 years ago, an electrical fault killed the engine on the side of the road. Since then it's been perfectly reliable in my service.
 

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Originally Posted by pettyfog View Post
On the Blazerforum I tell them they all need one ford in their driveways to go get parts.
Haha, I like it! I bet that went down well!
Only when provoked.
FriendsDon'tLetFriendsDriveFords;blazerforum said:
Hi, first time poster here. I'll try to keep it short. I have a 99 zr2, all at once it wouldn't start, cranks over but will not start. Will run putting fuel in the tb. Dropped tank, took out pump assembly, removed pump motor, hooked to 12v and motor runs. Engine compartment fuse is good. Checked harness at tank, short pulse of 12v. Hooked motor to harness, had a buddy turn the key on and pump barely runs, I mean barely. I don't know what else to check, or do I just replace the pump motor and quit thinking to much? Thanks
Check volt at pump connected and running. should be over 11 volts TO FRAME, Check neg wire to pump TO FRAME with motor running. should be less than .5 volts
If grd {black} is over .5v, remove and relocate G402 on top crossmember above differential to bared metal rear of crossmember.
If your FP connector is 2x2 pin, it either is now, or will be, bad.

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FriendsDon'tLetFriendsDriveFords

"cuz it makes you look bad when they stop to pick you up to go to the bar and you gotta fix your Chevy to go to work in the morning."

"Unless they're driving their Ford to go pick up parts for ya"

I got a million of 'em!

There's about ten, maybe twenty people on that site who know diddly **** about cars. Most of them think modding is body lifts lighting and sound systems. Here I'm an intern, There I'm a genius,.

And lets see I been studying up on GM for .. ummm.. 5 freaking months! They have a rep system there... I got dinged good and posts deleted by a mod who came back after an absence since before I joined. For 'being unkind" That got fixed fast. heh...

Yesterday though, I lit into some dumbass who wanted to 'upgrade' his 2002 Blazer with a edelbrock manifold and a 680 cfm carb. So he could add a turbo or blower next.
I had to explain the basics of powertrain control to him.
 

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Only when provoked.



There's about ten, maybe twenty people on that site who know diddly **** about cars. Most of them think modding is body lifts lighting and sound systems. Here I'm an intern, There I'm a genius,.

And lets see I been studying up on GM for .. ummm.. 5 freaking months! They have a rep system there... I got dinged good and posts deleted by a mod who came back after an absence since before I joined. For 'being unkind" That got fixed fast. heh...

Yesterday though, I lit into some dumbass who wanted to 'upgrade' his 2002 Blazer with a edelbrock manifold and a 680 cfm carb. So he could add a turbo or blower next.
I had to explain the basics of powertrain control to him.


I use to be on that site... until I wrecked my Blazer :(
 

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I voted 100% because I havent had a problem yet and I wouldnt hesitate to jump in this thing and drive to California. I stay on top of my maintenance for the most part and sometimes I do repairs just for fun! In all of my years, my MN12s always got me where I needed. Like the time I drove back from college with a bad alternator on my 94 Bird and it died on me right at the city limits of Hubbard. It was like a 120 mile drive from college station without the battery charging. Or the time my Cougar's engine locked up right in front of my shop at like 2am.
 

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My '95 LX's battery died once. In 15 minutes the Auto Club gave it a jump and I was on my way to AutoZone for a new one.
Other than that, 100% reliable.
I used to be a mechanic and I keep an eye on things.
 

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I've only had my car about a year but I'd say it's reliable. Mind you I replaced a whole bunch of suspension parts when I got it. And I replaced all the emissions hoses cause they were rotten, big time. I believe in proper maintenance before stuff breaks at bad times :)
 

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I voted 100%; every time I've had a issue that stranded me it was completely my fault, not the car. :)

I've got a 50% "driving home" score after totalling an mn12.
I've had to be towed home after breaking 3 wheels.
I've driven over 50 miles with a dropped valve; ran fine, gas mileage was a bit off, lol.
I've driven over 50 miles with a transmission grenaded. 2nd on the interstate, lol.
I've driven thousands of miles with a problem that turned out to be the driveshaft turning inside itself.
(insert facepalms as appropriate...)

All mn12s combined, I have over 300k miles driven...

My total investment on 3 cars is less than 30k, with oil, parts, and fluids.

Parts includes full suspension rebuilds and transmissions, TCs; tires would probably fit, but I don't have all the numbers for those. :)

That's less than 10¢ a mile. :thumbsup:

Gas at $3/gallon is 12.5¢ /[email protected], so my car cost is cheaper than gas cost, and drops each mile I drive.
 
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