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Discussion Starter #1
My passenger door is sagging(oh boy Ive replaced full sets on 2 cars already) and I was wondering about the hinge pin rebuild kit??? Is this hard to do or should I just spend the extra dough for the fully assembled hinge?? I dont doubt my skills but what I am getting at is that if it is a pain in the a$$ and isnt worth the time then I simply wont waste it, and buy the 15 minute replacement.
 

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you can buy just the pin with bushings/rollers for an f150 and they will work its very cheap. Or you can buy the whole one and end up painting it. Both are pains in the asz because you have to align the door regardless. When just replacing the pin/bushings/rollers its possible leave half the hinge bolted to the body which helps a lot with realigning
 

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Discussion Starter #3
actually what I have done with the other previous repairs, I would not go in through the door/quarter panel crack, instead remove the bolts that hold the door to the hinges(full hinge assembly still attached to car) remove door and rest on stands(never had to disconnect the wire harness) remove the door hinges fully and directly replace with new, then bolt the door back on to those via 4 bolts.
I think I might as well just go new and paint, i dont feel like taking apart and messing with the rebuild, Ive read the instructions and it seems to be no fun
 

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actually what I have done with the other previous repairs, I would not go in through the door/quarter panel crack, instead remove the bolts that hold the door to the hinges(full hinge assembly still attached to car) remove door and rest on stands(never had to disconnect the wire harness) remove the door hinges fully and directly replace with new, then bolt the door back on to those via 4 bolts.
I think I might as well just go new and paint, i dont feel like taking apart and messing with the rebuild, Ive read the instructions and it seems to be no fun
One of the hinges needs the dash to be pulled away to remove.

the pin replacement is not that bad to do:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVVozUkfDO4&feature=fvw
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yes well I might add, I did not know that the dash had to be moved?? I had the first FULL set done at a shop, and the second one that was done was only me replacing the bottoms as they are usually the only ones to sag. Why do you have to move the dash for one?? Are there nuts holding bolt to the hinge from the inside???? I just took off the door and bottom hinge on my parts car to try to replace the bad one on my 94, but upon inspection decided it would fail in a week anyways.
 

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IMO the pin and bushing kit will be better then a new hinge as the bushing is way thicker then stock. And if/when they eventually sag again (waaay down the road) it will be VERY easy to fix with the c clip design.

It wasn't that hard to do really, and I did it EXACTLY like that vid. Never seen that before either lol. I installed the pin from the top actually, only real difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah Ive never seen that video. Its is very helpful and I appreciate the mysery producer taking the effort and time to document it, now I think I will do that(looking at pictures step by step looks like a pain in the a$$, video makes it look like cake) and like you said it will last longer. That is a great piece of info there! Thanks tbirdguy, and David!
 

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yes well I might add, I did not know that the dash had to be moved?? I had the first FULL set done at a shop, and the second one that was done was only me replacing the bottoms as they are usually the only ones to sag. Why do you have to move the dash for one?? Are there nuts holding bolt to the hinge from the inside???? I just took off the door and bottom hinge on my parts car to try to replace the bad one on my 94, but upon inspection decided it would fail in a week anyways.
I think the top one has a stud with a nut on the dash side. I read it on the forum a while back, and got the bushing kit.
 

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Yeah Ive never seen that video. Its is very helpful and I appreciate the mysery producer taking the effort and time to document it, now I think I will do that(looking at pictures step by step looks like a pain in the a$$, video makes it look like cake) and like you said it will last longer. That is a great piece of info there! Thanks tbirdguy, and David!
you may need a 31/64 bit for the bushing. I order them from rockauto, they are like $1.50 for 2 pins, its worth to get two sets, I've seen them sold for $10 each in the stores!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
where do you recommend buying the hinge rebuild kit? SCP sells just the lower hinge for like $35 thats the only place Ive looked for that.
 

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Go to NAPA store and they have the pins, bushings, door latch, all the parts you need and for cheaper than those kits you buy. rock auto has the hinge pins for cheap also.
 

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where do you recommend buying the hinge rebuild kit? SCP sells just the lower hinge for like $35 thats the only place Ive looked for that.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1140567,parttype,10711 (by 2 of the single ones)- he gives you one.

optionally: (Unless yours is destryed dont bother)
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1140567,parttype,10713

The striker is around $6 in advance, autozone, etc, you may just need the sheath, its like a buck or two in the store.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so would i need the striker/sheath?? what do those pieces look like and do they wear like the bushing??think they would need a replace?
 

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unless your door has been sagging for a long time.(months and months of closing crooked) than you most likely will not need the striker sheath. i aggree with everyone else on here. by the hinge/pin and bushing kit from rock auto and like you did on your previous rebuild. take the door off so that you can set it on a stand and then cut the pins in half with a small cut off wheel. once you have the pins knocked out then take the section no longer attched to the car and put it in a vice and drill the holes on both ends of it out so that you can fit the new oversized brass bushing in to the holes snugly. then bring the section of the hinge back to the car. line up the holes, drop in the pin, put the c clip on and bolt your door back up to the same spot on the hinges. HINT ( mark around the hinge with a sharpie before removal so you can get it back in the correct spot) then you most likely wolnt need to a-line the door. doing the procedure this way saves you ripping out dashes and trim panels to remove the hinge portions attched to the car. -Jared Murray
 

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Discussion Starter #17
so you leave the hinge to the car just as it is, and remove the door half of the hinge? do you have to drill and replace bushings on the body mounted hinge or is the door side the only one with the bushings?
 

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right leave the hinge to the car intact and remove the door side. because the door half of the hinge fits around the outside of the car half. drill out the holes on the door half and put the 2 bushings that come in the kit into the door half of the hinge.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
O.K. thanks eveyone. I have gathered enough info to get this myself, really sounds easy and foolproof. I now just need to order the parts.
 

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definatly not the hardest thing you will do to your bird. just remember when you unbolt the door from the hinges have an extra person on hand those doors are like 150 freekin lbs lol
 
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