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Is it an easy job? What does it entail? I am looking to swap out working actuators from one car and replace them with my non working units :D
 

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Its probably just the switch or do neither work? Go to a junkyard and get a switch out of another Bird and try it in your car. Just pull the switch panel off by pulling on the edge closest to the front of the car, its just held in with clips, then pull your door handle out towards you and slide the panel out.
 

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Use a center punch or other thin tool to pop the center out of the rivet that holds the actuator in place. Then get a drill and drill out the rivet, not sure what size I used (probably on the order of 1/4" or 5/16"). Start small and work your way up if you're not sure - you don't want to enlarge the hole in the door itself.

After the rivet is toast, remove the door panel and peel back the water shield to make room to work. You may have to unbolt and remove the window guide track to be able to swing the actuator around; you need to get it perpendicular to its original position so you can unhook the arm from the bracket near the latch mechanism. A fairly self explanatory process.

To install, I used a 1/4" by 3/4" nut and bolt with washers. Because of the lack of working room behind the actuator in position, I used steel epoxy to mount the nut and a lock washer to the bracket on the actuator, so all I had to do was get the holes lined up and thread the bolt through and tighten. No need to hold the nut steady from the inside. Worked like a charm.

It took me on the order of 15 minutes to install the passenger's side actuator, including door deconstruction and reassembly time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I like the metal weld +nut and bolt idea. I have a 94Tbird to rob parts from and experiment with. I will check to see if it is the switches. The drivers side switch only makes the drivers side work - and it barely works.
 

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Easiest way to find out if it's your switches is to disconnect the connector to the actuator and measure the voltage across it when you have the switch depressed. No parts juggling required, just a multimeter. 12V is the norm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have the actuators, next is the cats, 4 50$ bosche sensers and the Y pipe. Then its donation time for the old bird.
 

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Use a center punch or other thin tool to pop the center out of the rivet that holds the actuator in place. Then get a drill and drill out the rivet, not sure what size I used (probably on the order of 1/4" or 5/16"). Start small and work your way up if you're not sure - you don't want to enlarge the hole in the door itself.

After the rivet is toast, remove the door panel and peel back the water shield to make room to work. You may have to unbolt and remove the window guide track to be able to swing the actuator around; you need to get it perpendicular to its original position so you can unhook the arm from the bracket near the latch mechanism. A fairly self explanatory process.

To install, I used a 1/4" by 3/4" nut and bolt with washers. Because of the lack of working room behind the actuator in position, I used steel epoxy to mount the nut and a lock washer to the bracket on the actuator, so all I had to do was get the holes lined up and thread the bolt through and tighten. No need to hold the nut steady from the inside. Worked like a charm.

It took me on the order of 15 minutes to install the passenger's side actuator, including door deconstruction and reassembly time.
I discovered (by accident) removing the door actuator on the driver's side, that it has 2 plastic tabs holding it into the metal bracket, and you can bend the tabs out enough to pop the actuator out without drilling. I still have yet to install the new one because of the cold though.
 

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I discovered (by accident) removing the door actuator on the driver's side, that it has 2 plastic tabs holding it into the metal bracket, and you can bend the tabs out enough to pop the actuator out without drilling. I still have yet to install the new one because of the cold though.
That's how I did it on my 5.0 and has worked just fine for years now, but drilling and riveting probably would have been faster.
 

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True, but I figured the amount of work to try and get the bracket snapped back into place on the tabs while mounted in the door was too much nonsense.
 
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