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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The sleeves on the door latch striker bolts on my '97 are worn out, especially the driver's side. The part is obsolete, but I found a few (expensive) NOS striker assemblies at dealerships. Is there a source for just the sleeves?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the lead. After my initial posting, I learned I could get these parts from TBSC Shop, and ordered a pair there.
 

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For just the sleeves, it's my understanding the 1/2" PEX tubing works.

If you want the entire striker assembly, it's my understanding that 05+ Panthers use the same striker assembly on the rear doors. So if you were to find a Grand Marquis or TownCar at the junkyard, you can scavenge strikers from the rear doors. The likelihood of those cars having used and abused rear strikers is low as they are / were typically driven by empty nesters.
 
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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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For just the sleeves, it's my understanding the 1/2" PEX tubing works.

If you want the entire striker assembly, it's my understanding that 05+ Panthers use the same striker assembly on the rear doors. So if you were to find a Grand Marquis or TownCar at the junkyard, you can scavenge strikers from the rear doors. The likelihood of those cars having used and abused rear strikers is low as they are / were typically driven by empty nesters.
Unless they were ex-police/taxi/livery, that constitutes the bulk of junkyard Panthers in my area, I never find mint low mile little old lady cars at junkyards
 

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Replacing just the striker is a waste of time; the hingepins are wasted.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Replacing just the striker is a waste of time; the hingepins are wasted.
Worn hinge pins kill the striker sleeves so they have to be replaced regardless.

Also untrue, my passenger striker sleeve crumbled apart in the summer and there was nothing wrong with those hinges on that side. Those plastic things stop the inertia of a 100lb door and steel latch slamming into it, they absolutely can wear out before the pins
 

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The stockers crumble, the newer ones are tougher, and just seem to deform and make the door bounce open. :)
I need to do the pins in Lazarus; I think this is the second set...
 

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Agree that nothing necessarily has to be wrong with the door for the plastic sleeve to break. It's amazing how most people think you need to "slam" a car door. That is what breaks them.

I always make sure the windows are up before my passenger gets out. Makes a huge difference on how hard you need to shut the door. With any window cracked even an inch, it takes finger pressure to slam a door - with them all up, sometimes it does take a little force to get it to shut.

I just cringed at the guy at the gas station that absolutely slammed his door shut. He'll have problems eventually - at least a rattle or two to start. /rant off

Al
 

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I just cringed at the guy at the gas station that absolutely slammed his door shut. He'll have problems eventually - at least a rattle or two to start. /rant off
Yeah, that guy will probably buy another car in a few years and never have to deal with it.
 

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1994 XR7 , 46 most every option. 66.000 miles. rustfree, from washington state.
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kinda funny . my 94 cougar, which i got last year, has perfect closing doors and the strikers are in great shape. doesnt look like the guy ever lubed them, and it only had 1 owner.
there is no slop on the pins and bushings
 
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Just so I can look out for it, besides the obvious of failing striker sleeve and hard to shut doors, how do I know that the hinges are going and will need replaced / repaired?

If mine are still good, what type of lube do I use to keep them lubed up and good? Brake caliper lube? Lithium grease? Something else altogether?
 
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Just so I can look out for it, besides the obvious of failing striker sleeve and hard to shut doors, how do I know that the hinges are going and will need replaced / repaired?

If mine are still good, what type of lube do I use to keep them lubed up and good? Brake caliper lube? Lithium grease? Something else altogether?
It’s obvious when the hinges are bad or going bad, the most obvious being the door won’t close all the way without slamming it, the visual way to tell is look straight on at the top corner of the door frame and see if it drops any when you slowly open the handle. You can also lift up on the rear bottom of the open door and feel for play, there shouldn’t be any.

Lube won’t save the originals, the factory design uses frictionless plastic material bonded to the sleeves the pin goes through, the weight of our doors eventually deforms the plastic and squeezes it out and then wears away at the outer metal bushing and pin.
 

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i use a lube that will seep into the bushings and then congeal after 15 seconds. grease doesnt get into the bushings. i also do the rollers and latch pins. close the latches manually to get to the top pin.
 
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