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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I will try to post some picks up of the process to to make it easier to explain.


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Drivers-side lower Door Hinge replacement.

On Thunderterd's difficulty scale it is a 5 beer job (out of a possible 12)

Most of the time when our MN12 doors start to sag the bushing is worn our on the door and you can follow these step to get the door and hinge off for easier to repair. What I will be going over is actuall hinge replacement. The reason for this is I did not replace the bushing in time and it wore on the hinges till the point where bushing replacement was not an option and at an average of $55.00 I felt it was cheap enough to purchase the whole assembly. The upper hinge does not bare as much weight as the bottem hinge so keep an eye on the bushing to make sure it is ok. The removel of the top hinge does require removel of the dash and is a much harder project.
Remember our doors are not light they weigh a few hundred pounds so be careful!



Tools required: 13mm Box wrench, 13mm socket, 5/16 Socket and box wrench, Black sharpie, a towel, (2) Car Jacks and a helpful friend.

Door Hinge part numbers. While this just describes lower hinge replacement I have included all relivant part numbers.

Lower hinge: F7SZ-6322810-AA $72.85
Upper Hinge: F4SZ-6322800-B $53.68

The following part number are use to repair the hinges themselves.
Pins: D9ZZ-6643030-AA
Bushings: D9OZ-6522841-C
Striker plate: F3SZ-6322008-A (requires a T-50 torx bit to remove)


This is a fairly easy job and will take about 1hour and a half. Make sure you park on a level solid ground.

Step 1. Disconnect the battery (safety first)

Step 2. Place the two car jacks and support door so they no longer sag but give yourself a half inch of play incase you sit in the car and it raises the door even more.

Step 3. Remove interior plastic kick panels. These are held on by clips and should remove Easley but be careful as the crap easy.

Step 4. Fold back carpet and now you should see a black plastic this also needs to be removed to be able to access the bolts. I actually cut the plastic (its only insulating material) horizontally from the break release lever.

Step 5. You should now see metal and a large opening and a bunch of wires. You should see a small white clip bolted to the metal with a bunch of wires going to it. You need to remove the clip for better access this is retained with a 5/16 bolt.

Step 6. In the large opening you will see a wire harness and what looks like a relay this also needs to be removed and can be a little tricky. The bolts are in-between the Ebreak pipe/line (not sure what it’s called) these are also 5/16 sockets and you will need a box wrench to remove. It is very tight in there just have patience.

Step 7. Pull the relay and wire harness out so you have a clear shot into the opening there is 1 bolt you need to have access to and it’s a 13mm socket remove this bolt. You are now done taking items out of the interior and will be working on the door hinges themselves now.

Step 8. Take your black sharpie and out live where you hinges are on both the door and the car. Do both the top and bottom of the hinge.

Step 9. With your friend stabilizing the door you will need to remove 4 13mm bold form the door side of the hinge (the top one gave be bloody knuckles) this will leave the door detached. You want to pull the door a few inches away for the car and then with the floor jacks supporting it open the door till the rear view mirror almost hits the front fender. Take your time with this so you don’t drop the door and pull those door wires out or have the mirror hit the fender. I put a towel against my fender and leaned the door up against the car. It may be wise to have your friend hold it there.


Step 10. Now with the door out of the way you should have clear access to the bottom hinge and will see 2 more 13mm bolts remove these and the hinge should now be off.

Step 11. Put the new hinge on keeping it inline with your outlines you made in Step 8 and bolt it on working backwards from these steps.


You have now replace your sagging door! Off for milk and cookies!

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Typical door maintance (taken form TCCoA tech articles)

A lot of Thunderbirds share the common problem - saggin doors. One of the ways to fix this is to replace the hinge pins.
The best way to prevent this is to make sure that your striker plates (the pins that your door latches to in the rear, furthest from your hinge) have a piece of plastic (sort of a sleeve) around them.
This piece of plastic minimizes vibrations and makes sure that your door remains at the right height while closed. Unfortunately, this plastic sleeve wears out pretty quickly, so (after you replace the hinge pins) you'll want to make sure that you keep an eye out and not let the plastic sleeves wear out.
You can either buy new striker plates from a Ford dealer or go to an auto parts store and just buy the sleeves.


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Rolling Thunder has posted the following information a multitude of times.



1. If you have never replaced the bushings since the car was new, you may consider replacing the hinge too. Mine was so worn, that the bushing was completely worn through, and the pin had elongated the hole in the hinge plate. I used a 15/32 dia. drill bit, and opened up the hole, but the bushing fits in there just a hair loose.

2. In spite of this amount of wear, the upper hinge bushings had no play in them, so I am going to leave them alone.

3. When cutting the hinge pin, cut it closer to the bottom bushing, than the top. You can then take a center punch, or drift pin, and knock out the lower piece of the pin, from above. Then come up through the bottom of the lower hole, and knock out the top piece of the pin. The original pin has some knurling on it, and does not come out easily.

4. On my car, it was not necessary to make scribe marks, as it was obvious where the hinge plate was. The plate wears into the paint enough to make its' own marks.

5. For removing the door, I built a one piece, wooden support cradle to support the bottom of the door in two places. I made it the same height as the bottom of the door, and put a couple of notches in it to keep the door from falling off. Use a trolley jack to lift the car up slightly, so that you can slide the cradle under the door. Put shop rags between the door and cradle, to protect the paint. You can then slide the door away from the car, and tilt it forward, so it leans against the back edge of the fender. I then propped the door in place with a broom handle.

6. When installing the lower hinge pin, do not push it all the way down.
Leave it about 1/2" high. so that you can get the lower hinge bolt back in, and tightened. Then you can tap it the rest of the way down.


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Also if anyone wants to use this on there own website feel free!
 

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If your pics are large .jpg files, the TCCOA server won't accept them. If you can resave them down to less than 100 kb, it should work. Just a thought.
 

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Yeah, make sure they're .jpg or .gif. Also make sure the file extension is included. exampl:. car.jpg or car.gif
I would think that the Image resolution should probably be no bigger thatn 640 x 480.
 

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Would this be why my driver's side door also bulges OUT a bit, dispite no body damage whatsoever?
 

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mines saging....make this a tech article....it sticks a little also
 

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I don't have $55 for the parts. Someone else said I could use a bolt. Otherwise, is it easy to get a replacement hinge from a wrecked car and put it in?
 

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You probably don't want the whole hinge ... you will probably need only the hinge pins and bushings replaced. Which you can get under the HELP! brand at Advance or something. If your bushings are really, really gone, then you might need to replace the hinge.

More details:

http://www3.telus.net/bradcampbell/mybird/hingepinrep.htm
 

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Ya, but that's like $55. I can get a replacement hinge from a wrecked car for like $10. I'd rather go that way then trying to find a grinder and going through all that trouble. How much trouble is it to go that way?
 

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