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Discussion Starter #1
Hi-
my car is in the midst of a UCA replacment, and i am stuck at the removal of the UCA bolt in the firewall (rear). I can get an 18mm ratcheting wrench on there, but have NO room to generate any force. The master brake cylinder is in the way. Any hints? I can't fit a socket or air socket in there, and can't fit a breaker over the wrench...

Nor can i seem to get a good fit on the bolt head inside the wheel well to undo this in reverse

as i read the pass side is even tighter...can't wait for that

Thanks
Jason
 

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I used a regular wrench and flipped it back and forth. This gave me a tiny amount of turning space every time I flipped it. It sucks but I can’t think of any other way to do it without taking a bunch of stuff off.
 

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I used two different wrenches and flipped them and swapped them until I got it broken free, then I used another wrench on other side. I left the "flag" in place for reassembly and like you say, with the corners smashed to hold the flag on, you need to use either a 6 point socket or the open end of a wrench (or even an adjustable wrench is better than a 12 point socket or wrench).

It is tedious and takes longer that you would want to take, but it isn't like it takes more than 10 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
new problem! LCA ball joint nut

so i go the UCA out. Now I have a problem in that the 15/16" nut on the ball joint of the LCA is fused. When I turn the nut, the spindle of the ball joint seems to turn also.

Hints?

cut it? I am replacing lca wholly, and so far EVERY stinking bolt has been stuck.

thanks
jason
 

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Mine is a pristine desert vehicle (both, even the 89) so I really didn't have this problem, but I had to put a bottle hydraulic jack under one ball joint and put all the weight of the car on it to get it from moving the ball in the joint. You might need to spray it with some PB Blaster on the threads. I left the jack stand the car was on in place and only jacked it up on the ball joint so it was a fraction of an inch above the stand, you might not even need to get the car off the stand, just enough tension to get it to stop spinning.

The strut rod nut was the most troublesome for me on both cars. One had a large closed end nut that was the steering stop, the other had an open ended nut and a rubber cap on the end for the stop, and holding the strut rod with a pipe wrench the proper way and being able to break the nut free, which is large and has thread locker on it, one person only, wasn't easy.

And if there is rust, the cam bolt setup won't be fun either. Again, I am lucky with my environment and dry.
 

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gersting said:
so i go the UCA out. Now I have a problem in that the 15/16" nut on the ball joint of the LCA is fused. When I turn the nut, the spindle of the ball joint seems to turn also.

Hints?


thanks
jason

Hint:


You can buy a LCA with a new ball joint installed, thereby eliminating the need to remove the nut on your existing LCA ball joint nut.





.
 

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Oh, I didn't even realize he is trying to get the socket out of the lower arm, it never even dawned on me. I have a reading comprehension problem sometimes, and thought he was just trying to get the nut off the top of the ball/arm part of the ball joint where it goes through the spindle.
 

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UCA Nut at Drivers Side Firewall Removal/Re-installation

Hi I ran into the same problem. Here's my solution and it worked like a charm! You'll definitely want to do this to make re-installation easier.

**Caution** Edit: After separating the master cylinder from the booster I ran into some trouble reconnecting the two units.

In order to reconnect the two I had to bleed the left front brake to relieve the pressure on the line, this allowed me to reconnect the units. I then secured the bleeder and let the car sit overnight. The brakes worked fine in the morning.

In order to prevent this issue. With the car in park and the engine turned off pump the brake pedal until it builds pressure (According to the Chilton's manual at least 20 times). This exhausts the vacuum in the system. After exhausting the system vacuum you can then proceed to separate the master cylinder from the booster.

Loosen the two inner brake lines from their retainer with a pick. There is also a plastic retainer clip securing the brake lines that run to the rear of the car on the inside of the fender well that needs to be loosened prior to separating the two. Just follow the brake lines you'll see it. Then use a pick to disconnect the two wire harnesses from the master cylinder.



Then disconnect the Brake master cylinder from the booster. There are only two MM bolts securing the two together. DO NOT force the brake lines, they should bend just enough to get the two apart. If you feel excessive resistance check to see if there are any retainer clips that you missed. The only two that you should need to disconnect are the two locations listed above.




Once the brake lines are loose carefully separate the the brake master cylinder from the booster. Pull the master cylinder back about six inches until it clears the booster and move aside.
This will provide you with excellent access to the UCA nut at the drivers side firewall. You should be able to easily fit an MM ratcheting wrench on the nut and get enough leverage from the top to break it free and remove it. Just be careful not to damage the sensor on the brake booster.

There is no brake fluid between the master cylinder and the booster. The booster works on a vacuum so make sure the surface is clean and the gasket is in place prior to reassembly.
 

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You don't need to do any of that, if you have the proper wrench.

I did both passenger side and driver's side UCA's of my 95 LX 4.6 with ABS, using only a Craftsmen 18mm reversing wratcheting wrench.


Did not have to move or remove anything.
 

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hell.. i did it with a straight 18mm ratcheting wrench, and used a standard to break em loose... just have to get the right angle :)

go in between the fender and the master brake cylinder
 

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Rolling-Thunder,

I have a 18mm reversing ratcheting wrench - it's the only way to go. It's just easier to remove the master cylinder from the booster to get to the UCA nut from the top rather than trying to go under the master cylinder.

I bet you could have done it in half the time with half the effort even counting the time it would take to separate the MC from the booster. I can't imagine how you got any leverage on that nut with the MC in place to remove it, let alone properly torque it back on. How long is your 18mm wrench? The one I have is 9" end to end. If you have a longer wrench that certainly would have made a difference. I couldn't find a long handled 18mm reversing ratcheting wrench in my area.

It's just a suggestion, gersting can decide what works for him.

Gersting, How did you finally get drivers side UCA nut off?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bangster said:
Oh, I didn't even realize he is trying to get the socket out of the lower arm, it never even dawned on me. I have a reading comprehension problem sometimes, and thought he was just trying to get the nut off the top of the ball/arm part of the ball joint where it goes through the spindle.

No, you were right the first time...I have an LCA w/ the ball joint in. I jacked the car up by the LCA and the nut eventually came off.

jason
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Trunk Monkey said:
Rolling-Thunder,

I have a 18mm reversing ratcheting wrench - it's the only way to go. It's just easier to remove the master cylinder from the booster to get to the UCA nut from the top rather than trying to go under the master cylinder.

I bet you could have done it in half the time with half the effort even counting the time it would take to separate the MC from the booster. I can't imagine how you got any leverage on that nut with the MC in place to remove it, let alone properly torque it back on. How long is your 18mm wrench? The one I have is 9" end to end. If you have a longer wrench that certainly would have made a difference. I couldn't find a long handled 18mm reversing ratcheting wrench in my area.

It's just a suggestion, gersting can decide what works for him.

Gersting, How did you finally get drivers side UCA nut off?
Eventually I just got the proper angle. I have an 18mm ratcheting w/ an open end, and I put a socket handle through the open end to make a "T" shape. That helped break it loose.

I finally completed the drivers side. LCA, UCA, link and strut bushings. I spent most of the day getting the stupid lower shock bolt out...cut cut bang bang heat bang heat cut.

Unfortunately, the passenger side was not completed. I replaced the link, the LCA was fine, ball joint intact w/ good boot. The UCA nut on the firewall was NOT going to budge. I had my 18mm on it with vise grips on the end and was pushing enough to make the car shift on the stands...so I cleaned the ball joint out, regreased and stole the boot from the new UCA I had.

I'm sure the strut rod bushings could be replaced, as the other side was brittle, but I am out of time to work on it, and it is slow going by myself.

Thanks for everyone's advice though

Jason
 

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Trunk Monkey,

Maybe your car's brake system layout is different than mine, but it took me less than 5 minutes to remove the nuts from the UCA bolts on the firewall side. The wrench I used was approx. 9" long.

I would be more "concerned" about damaging a brake line, or creating at leak at one of the fittings by moving everything around.

I thought that the passenger side was worse - more in terms of just getting the wrench head around the nut. Still, I didn't have to remove anything, but I seem to remember having to loosen a bracket or something. But, since I don't have the car anymore................
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Passenger side was a tighter fit. Somehow when I got the wrench on there, I was only about 1" from the valve cover, so very little room to operate.

Regardless, the bolt was so stuck that I never got it anyway...

maybe one day w/ more time i will get it.

Jason
 

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Get ahold of some Kroil, or other brand of penetrating oil, and let it soak for 24 hours, and give it another shot. You might also try to loosen the head of the bolt, with a crisp 6 point socket bit or wrench. One good whack with a hammer (EDIT: mallet) might do the trick.
 

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I got mine off by using a long breaker bar with an 18mm socket on it. I was able to move the wire harness by the master cylinder to get the bar in there. I then popped the flag off the bolt side and used a 6 point socket on that side to loosen it. I had my strut out anyways because I was replacing it. In a Mark VIII, the air bag is in the way.
 
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