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Discussion Starter #41
I looked online for the load rating of the MT ET Street S/S, and could not find it. Anybody know what it is for size 285/40-18? With a relatively heavy car like an MN12, is that likely to be a concern?
 

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From my experience with other tires, if the load rating isn't there, they will wear quickly.

That might not be a problem with drag tires, but I'd hate to pop one at 120mph. >:)

I killed a set of BFG Traction T/A tires that were only rated 87 or something like that, they wore out in ~10k miles. (At 80+ in the interstate everyday)

They were rated for 30k, but I usually get 60% anyway.
 

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50 years of Mercury Cougar 1967/2017
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Mickey Thompson E. T. Streets are DOT rated tires.

They provide great hook up at the track.

But be careful with fresh rain on a road that hasn't had rain in a while.

What I'm saying they aren't good for ripping corners in the wet.

They are Traction and temperature rated C.

When my Cougar was a full time street car and now my tires are run at 15-19 psi.
 

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I looked online for the load rating of the MT ET Street S/S, and could not find it. Anybody know what it is for size 285/40-18? With a relatively heavy car like an MN12, is that likely to be a concern?
The MN-12 is not a heavy car at around 3750 lbs, similar to a muscle car such as a 1969 Roadrunner. The Camaro is around 4000, and Challengers run in the 4100-4300 range, absolute porkers!

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Point taken. I usually think of the MN12's weight in relation to Mustangs of the time, which were under 3500 lbs.

The Nitto NT555R is rated "A" for traction and temperature, and has a tread wear rating. The Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S is rated "C" for both traction and temperature, and has no tread wear rating. Doesn't sound to me like they are comparable for the way I would use them most of the time (street driving).
 

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The M/T's will allow you to give it full throttle at a low speed and enjoy the newfound power and torque of the car. Of course they have a zero treadwear. But they will hold the power.

The Nittos are a compromise tire, they will hook pretty good for the first year. After that you'll have to feather the throttle until you are at hwy speeds as they age. They used to spin on a 50 MPH hit for me when the temps got below 40 deg. Then the next year it became 50 deg, then 60 deg, and when they finally wore out the car was fishtailing at almost any temp.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I'll give it some thought over the winter. I'm not totally freaked by the potential need to buy new rear tires every year (MT, Nitto, or other brand), but I am concerned about tires being durable enough to get through an event like the Power Tour, and being capable of staying on the road when it rains.
 

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I looked online for the load rating of the MT ET Street S/S, and could not find it. Anybody know what it is for size 285/40-18? With a relatively heavy car like an MN12, is that likely to be a concern?
The MN-12 is not a heavy car at around 3750 lbs, similar to a muscle car such as a 1969 Roadrunner. The Camaro is around 4000, and Challengers run in the 4100-4300 range, absolute porkers!

Al
If you look here: Mickey Thompson | ET Street® S/S

... and scroll down to the "Construction" section it just says "S ...... Stiff sidewall construction aids in quicker reaction time due to less tire distortion. Also good in high horsepower applications and for heavy cars (Over 3,000 lbs)"

That's all I could find.
 

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Hi Mike, I recently bought a 1996 Mark VIII LSC with 98 K in garage stored condition. I am the 3rd owner, and I don't think I realize what I have here. I have never owned a car that is this fast. Turn off traction control and OD melt the tires coming hard off a complete stop, it scares me.....kinda.... can't stop smiling driving it. It's not my daily driver. I live in Ann Arbor and would like to know if some sunny dry weekend day, you would mind meeting to check it out? I could drive to your place or meet in Kensington? Or if you are ever in Ann Arbor you could stop by, call ahead.(734) 604-6129 I would also be interested in your knowledge of "local" metro Detroit area resources for quality upgrades suspension/engine/ rebuild both front seats. . Currently dealing with a check engine light and the code indicates driver side IMRC bank actuator. Thought an upper intake rebuild is in order, parts on order, doing the entire recommended 100K service. Thanks for your time, Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Mark,

Sure, I’d love to see your car and talk about upgrades. My car is currently in winter storage, but will be out by early April unless the winter is much more severe than it looks like so far.

Regarding your question about shops you can use, I highly recommend C&S Stitchworks in Brighton for the seat rebuild. They did a great job on my front and rear seats.
 

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I'll give it some thought over the winter. I'm not totally freaked by the potential need to buy new rear tires every year (MT, Nitto, or other brand), but I am concerned about tires being durable enough to get through an event like the Power Tour, and being capable of staying on the road when it rains.
Being a person who lives in a snowy state, I have two sets of wheels for my winter car. One set of all season tires for spring/summer/fall and one set of snow tires for October through April (I live in MN, it'll be snowy/icy through all those months).

So, the disadvantage is the additional cost for a spare set of wheels, but since my winter daily is an Acura RSX from 2003, I can put low cost Honda Accord wheels on it from a craigslist sale for cheap, and use those for my snows.

All that said, why not just get a set of tires that you can use all year for cruising, and a set of drag radials for when you take it to the track? Yes, the initial cost is high due to needing an extra two wheels, but your overall costs will be lower than if you have to buy new tires every year.

You can probably get two to three years out of a set of drag radials that way, and have your longer treadwear tires (but still a performance variant) for cruising.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I have taken a similar approach with my daily driver, which is an Audi A4. The car came with summer tires on 18” alloys. I bought a good used set of Audi 17” wheels and mounted winter tires on them. Switching off has resulted in good handling and traction year round, plus both sets are giving good life.

I’ve reached the same conclusion as you suggested about tires for my T-Bird. I’m going to put Nitto 555Rs on my “street” wheels, then later buy a spare pair of rear wheels and put either Nitto 05Rs or MT ET Street Radials on them for track duty.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Winter finally relented enough for me to get the car out of storage at the end of March. In April I fixed a few minor issues left over from last year, and added an oil/air separator recommended by the tuner. Then it went back to the tuner for transmission shift point calibration. The car runs and drives really well now, other than a quirk that could not be tuned out: when started from cold, it has to be allowed about 30 seconds of warm-up before putting into gear, or it will stall. After warming up there is no issue.

I've been concentrating on getting ready for the Epic Drive. Including getting to NC and back home from GA, we will accumulate about 2200 miles on the trip. Just this week I found an issue in the front suspension which is being addressed today. Some bushings had slipped out of place and were allowing unintended movement.

After the Epic Drive, the car goes back to Walsh Motorsports with a smaller pulley and shorter belt. The goal is 16 psi boost and a RWHP number that starts with 6!
 

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Nice!

Have fun on the EPIC Drive. If I can manage it I may put an appearance in somewhere along the route.

Best wishes with that 6xx !
 

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Discussion Starter #55
The car performed well on the Epic Drive, but when it went to Walsh with the 0.4” smaller pulley on the TVS, it was not happy at all. Massive knocking on the first attempted pull, even though the AFR was safe. So, for now, the larger pulley and longer belt are back on the car. I may try a 0.2” smaller pulley sometime later.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
My car is back at Walsh with a 0.2" smaller pulley. The goals are 1-1.5 lbs more boost, maybe 25-35 more RWHP, and no knocking!
 

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Are you running premium pump gas? You might try bumping the octane with Torco.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Yes, I run 93 octane unleaded. Since I road trip the car, it seems logical to stick with a tune for fuel I can get easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Got the car back from Walsh Motorsports this afternoon. The smaller pulley bumped boost by 1 pound, from 13 to 14 psi. RWHP went up from 540 to 561.5 and RWTQ went up from 492 to 521. The new dyno graph is attached. Based on a 20% loss factor for auto trans and IRS, the engine is making about 700 HP at the crankshaft, which seems pretty good for a 305 cubic inch 2V! The shop thinks this is as far as I should go on pump gas; more power is available on E85, but I don't want to make that change.
 

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50 years of Mercury Cougar 1967/2017
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My 95 N/A 2V has been running E85 since 2009. The only reason not to do it is availability of E85.
 
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