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Discussion Starter #1
Using rockauto prices, a premium moog LCA cost $60. Has 3 components.

A moog ball joint cost $31, strut bushing $18 , Frame bushing $21. = $70

So they pay you $10 to get the arm! If you factor in any labor you are probably ahead by $100. Any labor operation seems to be a minimum of $50 around here.

The by the time a ball joint goes, the frame or shock bushings are usually toast too.

The only downside is the alignment.
 

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Nope, but the STRUT bushing does. I believe there was an arm for the SC that came with that too! It is discontinued.
yeah went and checked that just now, ur pretty quick lol. Maybe I should take the time to actually read what is typed :D.
 

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And, you can save the alignment by using a bit of spray paint PRIOR to removing the frame bushing bolt - you can reinstall in the same position by referring to where the adjuster plate was.

Have done just balljoints before, pain in the arse - will only do a control arm from now on.
 

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I just had my ball joints pressed out and new ones in and I had to get an alignment after. I really wish I would have had the whole LCA done, but the mechanic did just the ball joint because it was cheaper to do that. It was about $270 and he said it would have been about $350 for the LCA.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
And, you can save the alignment by using a bit of spray paint PRIOR to removing the frame bushing bolt - you can reinstall in the same position by referring to where the adjuster plate was.

Have done just balljoints before, pain in the arse - will only do a control arm from now on.
Does anyone have issues with the camber frame bolts seizing in the bushings? Or do they usually slide out easily? One car came out easy, but I'm wondering if I'm pushing my luck!
 

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Does anyone have issues with the camber frame bolts seizing in the bushings? Or do they usually slide out easily? One car came out easy, but I'm wondering if I'm pushing my luck!

One of my Birds gave me no problems.

The other, unfortunately, did have seized bolts on both LCAs. Ended up having to cut them out.

It depends on your local rust factor and on how long the bolts have been in place.

If the bolts on both sides of your car have been in for approximately the same time, you'll probably be all right. Probably.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
One of my Birds gave me no problems.

The other, unfortunately, did have seized bolts on both LCAs. Ended up having to cut them out.

It depends on your local rust factor and on how long the bolts have been in place.

If the bolts on both sides of your car have been in for approximately the same time, you'll probably be all right. Probably.
Guess I'll keep that harbor freight angle grinder in mind :)
 

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Just get a bigger hammer!

My rust bucket 92 fights me with every nut/bolt I try to remove - but they ALWAYS come off/out.

Problem with pressing out/in a new balljoint is that IF you take the LCA out of the car without marking the camber plates - you will need an alignment, may as well buy a new arm. Do it without removing the LCA = PITA, but no alignment needed.

My opinion - just mark where the plate was - no alignment needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just get a bigger hammer!

My rust bucket 92 fights me with every nut/bolt I try to remove - but they ALWAYS come off/out.

Problem with pressing out/in a new balljoint is that IF you take the LCA out of the car without marking the camber plates - you will need an alignment, may as well buy a new arm. Do it without removing the LCA = PITA, but no alignment needed.

My opinion - just mark where the plate was - no alignment needed.
I'm beating a strut sleeve bolt now. I will probably have to move up to a larger hammer. I don't want to heat it too much because of the rubber stench.
 
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