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Removing the EEC in your 1994-1997 MN-12 is very doable, but must be done in a relatively small space.

What you will need in order to pull your EEC and install a piggyback chip is a small ratchet, a 10mm socket, a 9/32nds socket, one small piece of sandpaper, and a rag.

  1. Unhook the battery
  2. Locate the passenger side kick panel. The kick panel is secured
    in a few spots. The first to undo is visible. You see a round little push screw, which will match the color of your kick panel. Get a hand underneath the panel and pull back. This should come out pretty easy, next, guide your hand along the bottom and pull out the part that is overlapped by the guard along the bottom of the door frame. After that is out, move your hand up the front pillar, and there will be a non visible spot where the panel is secured before it tapers into a thin piece. Pull back while supporting the plastic so it doesn't break. You should be able to pull the kick panel off.
    On the 94&95s, you'll also have to remove a black insulator/guard type of deal, on the 96&97, this is attached to the panel.
  3. You now see a bunch of wires. If equipped, you might see a little
    light, pull this out of the bracket and position elsewhere, it will annoy you if you don't. Position yourself underneath and look up. You should see that black or grey piece of plastic with a bunch of wires running into it, that is the bottom of the EEC, or the pin connector.
  4. This needs to come off before dropping the EEC, but you need to do one thing before you do that, locate a small white plastic brace, held to the car by a 9/32nds nut.

    NOTE: To see the EEC mount better, open the glove box and take out the contents. Then, remove the cylinder end by prying out on the metal retaining clip and let the door fall down all the way. You may have to push in on the plastic at the back of the box to do this. From here you can see the EEC mount better. Don't burn your arm on the courtesy lamp. - Richard M
  5. This is where your ratchet and 9/32nds socket comes in handy. Remove this plastic piece. You should not need an extension on the socket.
  6. After that is done, take the 10mm socket and remove the bolt on the bottom of the EEC.
  7. After loosened, that plastic piece should pull off. Position that out of the way, and grab the steel box. Make sure all the wires are out of the way and pull down. You'll need to use a little muscle.
  8. When the EEC is dropped you'll also be able to see your computer code (The tall bold letters), however, locate the end opposite of the pins.
  9. You should see a small rectangular door. This is the service port. Pop this off with a tool, and you'll see bronze/silver pads which your new chip will connect to.
  10. On some service port, you can use a rag to get most of the silicone off, and electrical contact cleaner with Q-tips on these pads. The reason for all that is cause there is also a plastic coating on the contacts. If there is a problem, sand off the silver coating until you can see copper colored metal, the chip should then have no problem being read. But it is ESSENTIAL to clean these off with a piece of sandpaper and a rag to get a clean connection with the chip.
  11. After clean, pop on your chip. You'll want to verify the car is reading off the chip before you stuff that box back up. You'll need to reconnect the EEC, and tighten the bolt...if you just push it in and do not tighten, the car won't turn over.
  12. Reconnect the battery and take the car for a test spin. You'll want to idle the car for a few minutes, the idle should fluctuate, this is normal as the computer relearns idle speed. If possible, try to cruise around at 50mph for optimal learning.
  13. When satisfied, repeat the process in reverse to get the EEC back in. It might take a few tries to get it back up, as the space is tight. Just make sure all the wires are out of the way.

Derek Rafalski & Don Teeple




 
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