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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Im doing pi swap on my 95 4.6 and was wanting to hear some inputs on deleting the egr. Alot of my friends that build cars usually delete it. My car is a Sunday driver / street/strip car so gas mileage isn't a big deal. I won't be getting a tune for a little while FYI.
Thanks
 

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Here is a question...why delete it? It isn't operative at WOT or idle, only when crusing, it improves gas milage and lowers combustion temperatures slightly as well as recirculating nox emissions which is always a plus. Plus you will always pass emissions, so just leave it on the car. Everyone is so quick to get rid of it when it provides absolutely NO performance gains what-so-ever.
 

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WOT Junkie and avid corn burner
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And on top of what Black_Cat said, it doesn't hinder performance any.
 

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Super Moderator
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Pros: cleaner engine bay, less in the way when pulling parts.
Cons: worse fuel economy, less knock tolerance during cruise/less spark, more emissions.

Of note: No performance is lost due to EGR being present. EGR is generally only commanded between 1100 and 2700 RPM and under 40% load.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #6
Well I just called ford and the egr tube is no longer available. I am in need of 96/97 egr tube and water pump nipple.
 

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WOT Junkie and avid corn burner
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Try to find it from here, ebay, or a pick n pull type place (junkyard).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If one were to delete egr without a tune is there a MIL eliminator?
 

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I believe someone made one at one point, but it is a far more complicated circuit than one for the rear O2 sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
May just run with CEL tell I get it tuned, I'd rather have the clean engine bay look.
 

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From all I read injecting inert exhaust gas into the intake will help to keep combustion wall temps down below 2500*F. That sounds like a good idea to me. Less oxygen to burn means less fuel used. I think its pretty obvious that for a street car the egr should be left alone, unless you like running hotter cylinder temps. With a tune you can delete it, without a tune leave it in there.
 

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WOT Junkie and avid corn burner
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Just find the exhaust tube, put it in.
 

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Pro that i saw missed, less carbon going in to the intake making things nasty....

Pulled the intake off of a 100k mile conti, had more sludge and general carbon around the egr inlet on the manifold and CAKED on the imrc butterflies.
 

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WOT Junkie and avid corn burner
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Pro that i saw missed, less carbon going in to the intake making things nasty....

Pulled the intake off of a 100k mile conti, had more sludge and general carbon around the egr inlet on the manifold and CAKED on the imrc butterflies.
Seafoam...problem fixed.
 

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Yep. Plus not all of that carbon build up is from the EGR.
Yeah, that's the burnt oil from the PCV-pass-side-over-oiling issue at high rpms; or crappy oil with few changes, depending. :)

Livernois has a kit, and a plate. :D

An oil separator in the pcv circuit, just before the intake helps a lot, otherwise.

It's amazing how much oil can be thrown into the pcv lines... :eek:

Try a long uphill curve to the left, at speed, lol. You can see an oil light from filling the pass head with oil.
(Don't do this on the street, please) :)
 

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Pro that i saw missed, less carbon going in to the intake making things nasty....

Pulled the intake off of a 100k mile conti, had more sludge and general carbon around the egr inlet on the manifold and CAKED on the imrc butterflies.
Pull that egr and your used engine might not make it another 100k.

All the pros are pointless. Clean intake runners (can't see em dont worry about it).
Clean engine bay area (honestly?).

And like was mentioned by XR7-4.6 most of that sluge is from the pcv.

Grog, Interesting info about the pass head over oiling or not draining. Always did notice that oil pressure drop around long smokey left hand turns.

Is the Mark8 drain pan is just a bandaid then? Just gives you a couple more quarts to completely flood the cyl head with oil. Thread Jack!
 

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Grog, Interesting info about the pass head over oiling or not draining. Always did notice that oil pressure drop around long smokey left hand turns.

Is the Mark8 drain pan is just a bandaid then? Just gives you a couple more quarts to completely flood the cyl head with oil. Thread Jack!
It's not a bandaid, it's more oil. More oil = More Gooder. :) Especially if there are Twins involved, lol.

I had a completely wrong idea on what caused this issue, and I was shown a commercial solution, in Guitar Maestro's Uber build thread, here:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=141021

This is a link to the kit:
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/products/Livernois-Motorsports-Modular-Engine-Oil-Drainback-Kit.html

I've added this to my build, as well as the windage plate. :)


.
 

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The Parts Guy
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OP, as long as you correct the tune, the only ill-effect you'll really see from deleting the EGR system is a very slight loss of fuel mileage. I can't recommend deleting it without correcting the tune file, though I know it isn't uncommon to do so.
 

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I've snapped half of my EGR related lines trying to get the tube BACK on the damn valve. I've snapped an orifice, the green hard line a red hard line. Had to rig up a orifice saddle to keep it over the hole, epoxy for the hard lines, shrink tubed the hard lines to boots, new rubber lines where they fit... still running like crap. I'm replacing the backpressure transducer come payday.

I'm going to have to pull that EGR tube, and replace it... grrr, and they stopped making that part. and NO, the one for the F150 will NOT fit, nor will it bend ( damn steel ). I should have replaced the intake manifold when I started this oh, 2 months ago, and more than $700.00 to quack mechanic shops.

Is there a thread for "look how I got my car back from the 'AAA NAPA master mechanic shop'? I feel a tirade brewing. one conversation included the phrase, " You know it doesn't start... well is that what you brought it in for?"
 
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