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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
How is testing going, how about mileage?

:)
Truth is, I haven't done a lot of extensive testing. The MIL has not come back on in three weeks, but I have some other problem with the 'Bird and haven't been able to log any good MPG runs (I have a problem with either the u-joints or the half-shafts and the vibration is getting REALLY BAD, so I'm gonna have to fix it before the car leaves us stranded).

This week I will fix the 'Bird, but then I have to go out of state for almost two months (and I'm taking my van) next weekend. So I won't be able to really log some good mileage runs (like by the tank full) for awhile. I'm sorry about that y'all.

I promise as soon as I'm able I will log all my results and display them all for you here. I can tell you this! Daniela was yelling like crazy about how the Thunderbird was "surging" all the time, and she was worried it was going to break down. Since the circuit install, not only is the MIL light out, but the car runs VERY smoothly now with no "surging" at all!

I have to figure out my vibration problem now. It's definately either the u-joints or the half-shafts, because the vibration changes as the car goes up and down with the surface of the road. It used to only vibrate under acceleration, but now it does it accelerating or decelerating (and it's getting worse). It only runs smooth when cruising.

Anybody else who has either bought one off of me or built one themselves and installed it, please feel free to post your experiences and results with this circuit! Thank you very much in advance for all your input!
 

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i've still gotta check my board to see whats goin on with it,, hott glued it in a relay box... maybe thats y its not 100% no code yet..
 

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NetkeyM:
Q: I had a question about this EGR simulator circuit.

In the above circuit, you say that you need 33 ohm transistors capable of dissapating 5watts.
Don't you mean 0.5watts (or 1/2 watt)?

The reason I ask is because your pictures all show carbon film resistors.... and these only go up to 1/2watt dissipation.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_659817_-1

Resistors capable of 5W of dissipation are much larger. They typically look like small white bricks.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_660375_-1

Would you mind confirming your numbers again?
I have found that I will need to block off my EGR for my splitport upgrade and without an ECU reflash, I need to do something about the EGR valve.

Thanks,
-g
 

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i made some for my car yeeeears ago......didn't notice any difference with my car, but a buddy who had a stang with an off road h-pipe used them to turn off the MIL.
 

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i made some for my car yeeeears ago......didn't notice any difference with my car, but a buddy who had a stang with an off road h-pipe used them to turn off the MIL.
I'm not expecting any performance improvement; I believe EGR is disabled at WOT which is what the track car SHOULD be at most of the time anyway (when not braking).

I just want to disable the MIL.
-g
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
NetkeyM:
Q: I had a question about this EGR simulator circuit.

In the above circuit, you say that you need 33 ohm transistors capable of dissapating 5watts.
Don't you mean 0.5watts (or 1/2 watt)?

The reason I ask is because your pictures all show carbon film resistors.... and these only go up to 1/2watt dissipation.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_659817_-1

Resistors capable of 5W of dissipation are much larger. They typically look like small white bricks.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_660375_-1

Would you mind confirming your numbers again?
I have found that I will need to block off my EGR for my splitport upgrade and without an ECU reflash, I need to do something about the EGR valve.

Thanks,
-g
The big resistors are in the 4th pic down - this one (see the white blocks on the left):


You can leave the EVR instead of messing with those so the correct load will be there. I'm also considering a new circuit that instead of using a switching transistor would use one with more of a ramp feedback (closer to the real thing).
 

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Do you make Mil eliminators for the rear O2's aswell Rick? IF so I'm interested in a set for "Raven". "Midnight"'s comp never saw the hollowed out cats, the Sport's comp does lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Do you make Mil eliminators for the rear O2's aswell Rick? IF so I'm interested in a set for "Raven". "Midnight"'s comp never saw the hollowed out cats, the Sport's comp does lol.
I haven't tried them myself, but I found a simple circuit on the net you can try (you just need a 1M resistor and a 1uF cap):
 

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So if I'm understanding that correctly, the resistor and the cap go on the O2 side before it plugs into the harness from the car? Sorry electrical is definately not my strong point :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So if I'm understanding that correctly, the resistor and the cap go on the O2 side before it plugs into the harness from the car? Sorry electrical is definately not my strong point :)
Yes, the left side is the harness that goes to the car and the right side is the end that has the O2 sensor on it. If I understand the diagram correctly, you don't even remove the O2, just splice the resistor and cap into the wires.
 

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okay.
I have 2 questions.

1. Is it not true that EGR flow on fools the O2 somewhat into showing a richer than reality mixture? This is a common problem in some systems where debris blocking the pintle from closing results in acceleration problems due to lean.
- My kid had a 2.3L Topaz that had a jammed egr pintle. He said it was doggy but raved about the mileage he got on it. But when he went to sell it, replaced EGR valve and cleaned the passages, his mileage went down about 10%.

2. Why 33 ohm? Does the driver system have a current monitor? If not, any resistor passing enough current to let the driver transistor turn on should do.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
okay.
I have 2 questions.

1. Is it not true that EGR flow on fools the O2 somewhat into showing a richer than reality mixture? This is a common problem in some systems where debris blocking the pintle from closing results in acceleration problems due to lean.
- My kid had a 2.3L Topaz that had a jammed egr pintle. He said it was doggy but raved about the mileage he got on it. But when he went to sell it, replaced EGR valve and cleaned the passages, his mileage went down about 10%.

2. Why 33 ohm? Does the driver system have a current monitor? If not, any resistor passing enough current to let the driver transistor turn on should do.
I don't have an answer for question #1, and I got 33 ohm just by checking the resistance of a stock EVR.
 

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NetkeyM:
Q: I had a question about this EGR simulator circuit.

In the above circuit, you say that you need 33 ohm transistors capable of dissapating 5watts.
Don't you mean 0.5watts (or 1/2 watt)?

The reason I ask is because your pictures all show carbon film resistors.... and these only go up to 1/2watt dissipation.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_659817_-1

Resistors capable of 5W of dissipation are much larger. They typically look like small white bricks.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_660375_-1

Would you mind confirming your numbers again?
I have found that I will need to block off my EGR for my splitport upgrade and without an ECU reflash, I need to do something about the EGR valve.

Thanks,
-g
Doing the math, worst case is that it'll drop approx .4A, which will take at least 5W - would be better to be 10 to 20W to allow it to actually, you know, dissipate the heat.

THAT said - I can buy 3W 33ohm carbfilm resistors all day long at DigiKey.

Sandohm should do fine. IF you look at the third picture, you see the three Sandohm resistors there ...

I'd skip wirewound (aka "Oh, look, let's induce spark current into the ECM!" :diablo:)

RwP
 

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I know it's been 8 years since someone last responded on this thread, that said, it's a very interesting one.

I have a '95 Bronco California edition with a MAF that uses a DPFE sensor that looks just like the one in post #16. I was wondering if anyone would know if this eliminator would work for it? I got headers on it and have already deleted the EGR.

In case it would work for me does anyone know if user NetKeym is still making these circuit boxes or if there are still any floating around? Seems like he hasn't been active here in years..
 

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I know it's been 8 years since someone last responded on this thread, that said, it's a very interesting one.

I have a '95 Bronco California edition with a MAF that uses a DPFE sensor that looks just like the one in post #16. I was wondering if anyone would know if this eliminator would work for it? I got headers on it and have already deleted the EGR.

In case it would work for me does anyone know if user NetKeym is still making these circuit boxes or if there are still any floating around? Seems like he hasn't been active here in years..
I'm sorry to hear about NetKeyM.

There are several still sold on eBay as EGR simulators or "302 EGR delete". Since some of these simulators also claim it works for similar vintage 2.3 vehicles in addition to 5.0/302 vehciles, I would bet that the EGR sensor is similar/same on your Bronco as well.

TIP: Make sure to secure it to your harness well. Duct tape the connectors together and ziptie the plug to the harness so the mass doesn't toss it off. Before I tuned the ECU on my 5.0 car with quarterhorse which I used for track racing, I got away with using one of these to eliminate the CEL. One track day's worth of spirited driving though and the simulator flew off somewhere @ Sears Point.
 
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