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EGR Tube Delete
Due to the inability to find an EGR Tube for my 1995 4.6, I am considering tis option.
Ive heard about doing this. . . .


What are the good and Bad things to know?
Is it legal in Pennsylvania?
How is it done (Capping the manifold hole)?
Does it Light CEL?

Some one please help. . . I need to get this car running or it's got to Go.
And I do not wish to part with it.
 

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You can buy a plate to replace the EGR valve and a cap to put on your manifold. Yes, it will cause your CEL to come on and fail emissions. If you have a custom tune you can have it turned off. I don't know what effect turning it off would have on emissions testing.
 

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Hey, I'm going to the junk yard Sat. I'll see if I can get at one (I know they are a pain to get off, but I'll try).

- Stephen
 

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hey man It more then likely won't pass emissions there in PA!!!!
Find the tube and put it on I might have one at my house but it's for a 97 not sure if it will fit.
 

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about a week too late I had one that I couldn't get off of the exh manifold and ended up scraping both of 'em.
 

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I deleted the EGR and made a block off plate out of aluminum. It does cause a need to run about one grade higher octane than what you previously got away with.

Since I dont have to test for emissions, and since I'm building for street performance... I dont care. EGR's just heat up your charge and send carbon back into your engine (from a performance point of view).

As long as your emissions testing doesnt test while your car is on rollers spinning the tires in gear, the sniffer wont ever be able to tell there isnt a EGR... Since a EGR doesnt open at idle, as long as the testing is done at Idle, you will sneak right on by.
 

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Since I dont have to test for emissions, and since I'm building for street performance... I dont care. EGR's just heat up your charge and send carbon back into your engine (from a performance point of view).
It may very marginally increase the heat of the air charge into the engine, but it reduces the combustion chamber temperatures. That's why it is sometimes necessary to use a higher octane gas. EGR isn't used during WOT applications so there is no power to be gained, plus gas mileage will significantly decrease.
 

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It may very marginally increase the heat of the air charge into the engine, but it reduces the combustion chamber temperatures. That's why it is sometimes necessary to use a higher octane gas. EGR isn't used during WOT applications so there is no power to be gained, plus gas mileage will significantly decrease.
Yes Im very aware of these things. However, most cars built for peformance wont have EGR's... Its not that it increases performance (although it does increase part throttle responce), but its main advantage is it clears things out of your way and makes working on the car easier. Which is nice when you are fooling with it almost consistantly.

There is really no need for it if your building for perfomance and you dont need to meet emission standards.
 

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It also keeps the intake a little cleaner.
 

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My 95 was getting horrible mileage and running like crap a while back...then finally threw one of the EGR codes. After fighting with the damn thing for a while (and really wanting to find, preferably in a dark alley, the engineer that decided where the EGR would go), I decided to make a blocking plate...dropped it in and tightened the bolts down. Then I taped off the the vacuum tap and slid the vacuum line back on.

Car runs much better, gas mileage is back to where it used to be, and I have had no detonation issues. Of course, living in the Seattle area, we tend to have pretty cool and moist air just about all the time, which probably helps a little.

Yes, I am running around with a CEL...but I am blessed to live in a place without emissions testing, and have some plans involving an Explorer Engine, that will make the 95 vintage engine and it's maladies, a moot point...eventually :tongue:

Since the tube is the problem in your case, you also need to block off the end at the manifold. I seem to recall someone saying that they unscrewed the fitting and found that a penny was a perfect fit. They just popped the penny in the fitting and screwed it back on. The copper(ish) penny will deform enough to provide a sufficient seal.

Now you just need to decide if you can live with the CEL for a while...and if you can dodge the bullet on any emissions testing you may have.
 

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I looked at the junk yard but they didn't have any 4.6 with the engine still in the car.

- Stephen
 

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Some options...

How much of the tube is bad? If it is corroded by the exhaust manifold then you can splice in some copper tubing... You can use a 800+ deg F swagelock fittings (they are not cheap):


Or bend and weld in some stainless steel tubing... Ir modify another EGR tube and bend or weld extensions to it?

Or you can use some low pressure metal stainless steel flexible hose for something up higher. Swagelok FL Series can handle from vacuum to 840 PSI and -325 to 850 deg F. Get the 5/8" hose with 3/4" FNPT ends, add some MNPT to 5/8" compression adaptors and you have one good EGR tube (I still would not use it close to the exhaust though). Cost around $100-$200.

I used high temperature silicon but I made sure the metal tube was touching when I fitted and the joint was high in the EGR path. I do not think this will work for a 4.6L though... Others have tried it on a 4.6L and mine is the only one that did not melt. But mine is a 5.4L and the EGR is longer... :tongue:
 

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Also something to consider is what alotta ppl told me about deleting the EGR. Some said it can cause detonation.
No it doesn't. Stop spreading bad information.
 

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Its not bad info... it can cause mild pinging at light throttle setting on low octane fuels (like 87). Usually running 89 or 93 octane will cure this pinging though. I have deleted the EGR on enough cars to know that much.

But I feel the trade off for better responce, and cleaner appearance, as well as less stuff in your way while working on the car is will worth it.
 
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