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Don't call me a Newbie
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Okay, here's a question for all you seasoned Explorer Engine builders. I have a 2003 Explorer Engine with 1000 Miles on it, coming from Greenleaf.

I'll be replacing the internals with Forged Manley (as opposed to Girly?) components. This Engine will be for the '96 with the Vortech V-2 SQ (and the small Pulley :D ).

What I am wondering about is...do I need to do anything to prep the Cylinder walls, or should they be left as is? I recall having cylinders cross-hatched in the last engine I did...but that was ages ago, and after a bore job. The one before that was honed and then cross-hatched.

:bowdown: What thinkest you, oh wise and knowledgable ones?

Wayne

PS. Wish me luck on my first Modular Build.
 

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If it only has 1000 miles on it, the cross hatches will definately still be visible on the walls. Mine were on my shortblock when i swapped heads at roughly 130K

Joe
 

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You want to watch that from greenleaf. If they don't know the mileage they call it 1000. If you notice, they have more 1000 mile parts than any place ever could possible have
 

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Darrin said:
You want to watch that from greenleaf. If they don't know the mileage they call it 1000. If you notice, they have more 1000 mile parts than any place ever could possible have



i was wondering about that and they seem to be cheaper too when they only have 1000 miles on them..i just thought that maybe they were just didnt care about that just wanted to sell em to sell em
 

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Don't call me a Newbie
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Discussion Starter #5
Darrin said:
You want to watch that from greenleaf. If they don't know the mileage they call it 1000. If you notice, they have more 1000 mile parts than any place ever could possible have
Yeah...I kinda wondered about that, too. Of course, I'm basically using the Block, Heads and Intake...so hopefully, it'll be low miles (even if not 1k) and I'll be good to go.

shaggy433 said:
i was wondering about that and they seem to be cheaper too when they only have 1000 miles on them..i just thought that maybe they were just didnt care about that just wanted to sell em to sell em
The one I'm getting was one of the cheaper ones...but that's because it's coming out of Vegas to me here in Washington State. The prices that are quoted on the Greenleaf site, include shipping from wherever they are physically located. That's where a lot of the price difference is. The Engine I bought might have been one of the pricier ones, for somone in Ohio, for instance.
 

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well good luck and take lots o pics of the swap!!!! I cant wait until i have the spare time and money (not in that order of course i will make the time) to do the explorer swap but probably wont do it until im out of school and move down south (2008)
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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Cross hatching is the product of honing. There are some very complicated techniques some use (many different grits) but most use two grits.

The forged pistons will need more clearance than stock pistions, and being FI, you'll want even more clearance. We are talking .001", but it matters. You don't need to worry about the factory cross hatching, because you'll need to have the cylinders honed anyway.

Any engine shop will be able to do the above (make sure they used a torque plate), and Manley will tell you exactly what clearances you should have.
 

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Sheepish
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GreenBird said:
Cross hatching is the product of honing. There are some very complicated techniques some use (many different grits) but most use two grits.

The forged pistons will need more clearance than stock pistions, and being FI, you'll want even more clearance. We are talking .001", but it matters. You don't need to worry about the factory cross hatching, because you'll need to have the cylinders honed anyway.

Any engine shop will be able to do the above (make sure they used a torque plate), and Manley will tell you exactly what clearances you should have.
Yes, definately get the cylinders honed. Its a good practice to get the cylinders honed with a torque plate any time you're putting in new rings. The fresh crosshatch is what makes the rings seat. Getting it honed will also allow you to get the proper piston to cylinder wall clearance as greenbird mentioned.
 

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nickmckinney said:
Wait and get the forged pistons first, many times their OD is smaller than a cast for the same bore size, thus the clearance might already be included.
A simple phone call to the manufacturer will tell him that.
 
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