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Discussion Starter #1
Whether this is a new (or just now noticed) symptom of a known problem, or a symptom of a possible issue unrelated to existing problems, I'm not sure. So, for those who may not be up-to date, you may want to read the latest thread regarding my transmission issues here, before trying to diagnose this:

Murphys Back!

I've just started to notice a buzz in my engine that I can't remember having been there before. I don't hear it during idle, but if I put a little gas into it, it sounds kind of the same as if some kid had a baseball card up against the spokes of their bicycle wheel.

The speed of the buzz is directly related to engine RPM. I can only really hear it while in Park, and it's almost un-noticeable unless I'm close to a sound-reflective surface (i.e.: Parked close to another car, or a wall.) Up to 2,000 RPM under light engine acceleration (I'll check further when I get home) it doesn't seem to go away. In Neutral or Drive, I can just barely hear it when I first put my foot on the gas, but it goes away almost the instant I notice it. It also doesn't seem to differ whether I'm cold-starting the engine or in traffic.

Anyone have any ideas on this? Could it be related to any of my other issues, or am I just being a hypochondriac now?:confused:
 

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that sounds like what mine did w/ an exhaust leak. maybe it is, maybe not.... just my $.02
 

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valvebody buzz perhaps.Mine does the same and it goes away if i hit/punch my transmission pan but comes back soon after. someone quote me on this if im correct
 

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Iszi, this is related to the other problem (It is the cause of the problem in your other thread regarding shifting problems) . . . . .I had a VB buzzing and when I pulled the pan to swap VB's there was a control valve sitting in the pan!. . . . Mine would buzz from about 1700 RPM and more. Having said this, messing with the screw on the back of the EPC causes this to happen to the valve body. . . . .did you ever find out if the guy that did the rebuild messed with the screw on the EPC?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Iszi, this is related to the other problem (It is the cause of the problem in your other thread regarding shifting problems) . . . . .I had a VB buzzing and when I pulled the pan to swap VB's there was a control valve sitting in the pan!. . . . Mine would buzz from about 1700 RPM and more. Having said this, messing with the screw on the back of the EPC causes this to happen to the valve body. . . . .did you ever find out if the guy that did the rebuild messed with the screw on the EPC?
*sigh* I'm only guessing that they did. I haven't come right out and asked them yet, as relations with them seemed to have become a little strained since I called to complain about the shifting problem in the first place (after they rebuilt the trans). Maybe I should just ask, I suppose.

I think I said this in my other post: The transmission shop claims to adjust the pressures to be right in the middle of a specified range. Again, I don't know what that range is or where they got their reference, but if tweaking with the EPC is the only way to do it without a chip, that's probably what was done.

That having been said, if it is indeed VB buzz, is this something to be particularly concerned of? Should I take it back to have the transmission shop fix it? What should I ask that they do? I'm guessing with the possibility of a control valve being completely out of place, this is probably something that I should have them open up the transmission to look at?

The shop wasn't able to do the speedo. fix on Saturday due to short hours and short-staffing on the weekends. Can this probably wait a week or so, when I'll be taking a day off to (among other things) get the speedo fix done anyway? I know if the transmission dies because of it in the meantime, it should be covered under the shop's warranty, but I prefer to be able to plan my downtimes when possible.
 

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*sigh* I'm only guessing that they did. I haven't come right out and asked them yet, as relations with them seemed to have become a little strained since I called to complain about the shifting problem in the first place (after they rebuilt the trans). Maybe I should just ask, I suppose.

I think I said this in my other post: The transmission shop claims to adjust the pressures to be right in the middle of a specified range. Again, I don't know what that range is or where they got their reference, but if tweaking with the EPC is the only way to do it without a chip, that's probably what was done.

That having been said, if it is indeed VB buzz, is this something to be particularly concerned of? Should I take it back to have the transmission shop fix it? What should I ask that they do? I'm guessing with the possibility of a control valve being completely out of place, this is probably something that I should have them open up the transmission to look at?

The shop wasn't able to do the speedo. fix on Saturday due to short hours and short-staffing on the weekends. Can this probably wait a week or so, when I'll be taking a day off to (among other things) get the speedo fix done anyway? I know if the transmission dies because of it in the meantime, it should be covered under the shop's warranty, but I prefer to be able to plan my downtimes when possible.
It will probably be OK for a short time, but you will need to keep your foot out of it. . . .I broke my intermediate stub shaft and thrashed the planetary gear set due to the valvebody pretty much completely failing (control valve in pan). Meant to be read: Can't be in third and fourth gear at the same time. The valve body is fully accessible by just dropping the pan with the transmission in the vehicle. If the transmission was rebuilt with quality parts, then there shouldn't be any other problems if you still have all gears engaging, just not shifting "correctly." At this point (if you don't mind spending more money), I would go buy a new VB and EPC from Darrin at http://www.bc-automotive.com . Call him and he will not do you wrong. Take the parts to the transmission shop and have them install them, or do it yourself if you have basic mechanical knowledge and the patience to get the EPC in and out. It is not exactly difficult to change the EPC, but I would recommend patience, or frustration may set in the first time it is done with the tranny in the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It will probably be OK for a short time, but you will need to keep your foot out of it. . . .I broke my intermediate stub shaft and thrashed the planetary gear set due to the valvebody pretty much completely failing (control valve in pan). Meant to be read: Can't be in third and fourth gear at the same time. The valve body is fully accessible by just dropping the pan with the transmission in the vehicle. If the transmission was rebuilt with quality parts, then there shouldn't be any other problems if you still have all gears engaging, just not shifting "correctly." At this point (if you don't mind spending more money), I would go buy a new VB and EPC from Darrin at http://www.bcautomotive.com . Call him and he will not do you wrong. Take the parts to the transmission shop and have them install them, or do it yourself if you have basic mechanical knowledge and the patience to get the EPC in and out. It is not exactly difficult to change the EPC, but I would recommend patience, or frustration may set in the first time it is done with the tranny in the vehicle.
Thanks for the info, and for the PM. While I'd love to put some more money into this, I can't right now. So, I'll have to rely on the transmission shop to handle the repairs under warranty. I'll probably have some questions for you about how to best deal with this later tonight.

I checked out the car in the driveway, and I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from the transmission. I can hear it all the way up to 3,000 RPM but the engine drowns it out any higher, so I can't tell if it ever goes away. I had my step-dad hold the car at around 1500 RPM so I could hunt around for it with the hood popped, but I couldn't hear it from under the hood. The only way I could hear it was by listening from either side of the car, and it sounded like it was coming from underneath.

One particular question I have is in regards to what Jerry's article says about this buzz. The way I read it is: "If you haven't messed with the EPC screw, get a '96 or newer main control. If you have messed with the EPC screw... well, you shouldn't have." So, what if they did? Just get a new EPC, or will the VB still need to be replaced as well?
 

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Thanks for the info, and for the PM. While I'd love to put some more money into this, I can't right now. So, I'll have to rely on the transmission shop to handle the repairs under warranty. I'll probably have some questions for you about how to best deal with this later tonight.

I checked out the car in the driveway, and I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from the transmission. I can hear it all the way up to 3,000 RPM but the engine drowns it out any higher, so I can't tell if it ever goes away. I had my step-dad hold the car at around 1500 RPM so I could hunt around for it with the hood popped, but I couldn't hear it from under the hood. The only way I could hear it was by listening from either side of the car, and it sounded like it was coming from underneath.

One particular question I have is in regards to what Jerry's article says about this buzz. The way I read it is: "If you haven't messed with the EPC screw, get a '96 or newer main control. If you have messed with the EPC screw... well, you shouldn't have." So, what if they did? Just get a new EPC, or will the VB still need to be replaced as well?
If the VB is already buzzing then it is bad. If they messed with the EPC screw, then that is what caused it to fail and they should have to pay for the replacement of the VB along with a new EPC. If this is the case then try to get them to buy one from Darrin, just get in touch with him and I am sure that he can give you a quote that will be much less than what FoMoCo will charge for a new VB.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, now I'm friggin' pissed. Either this shop doesn't have a clue what they're doing, or they don't want one, or both. I called the shop owner today to discuss the VB buzz issue, and here's how it went.

  • Called shop, got Glen. Asked for John (shop owner).
  • Got John on the phone, asked him how his shop was adjusting the pressures to get them within their specs.
  • John said they were tweaking the valve body.
  • I asked what about the EPC?
  • John said there isn't an adjustment on the EPC.
  • I told him there is an ajdjustable screw on the EPC, but it shouldn't be messed with and according to Jerry's docs doing so could harm the VB.
  • I explained to him that I was hearing what could be VB buzz, and asked him if he could check it out when I brought the car in Thursday.
  • He said fine.
After I hung up with John, I remembered that I'd meant to get his e-mail address so I could send him a link to Jerry's docs. I called back and got Glen. I explained what I needed and why, and after talking to John he told me that they didn't have an e-mail address.

What the crap, now? This shop's chain has a website that looks very well done to me (http://www.remantransorlando.com/) but the company doesn't make sure their individual shop owners have e-mail addresses to use for communication?

Can someone help me out here? It seems I really do need a printer-friendly copy of Jerry's docs now. Not that I expect the shop to actually read it, but I'd at least like to make sure they can't say they didn't have it.
 
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