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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I've noticed recently, doing some city driving, that my engine's been getting REALLY warm. Hasn't overheated yet, thank God, but it's running a lot hotter than it has been. The coolant level is good, topped it off yesterday just to make sure. I haven't been noticing my fan turning on, lately. Doesn't necessarily mean it hasn't been, but usually I'll notice cuz I'll see my voltage guage jump when it kicks on. Yesterday, I took quite the journey to Buffalo, NY and the highway's fine because the cars forcing air into the engine compartment at 80mph, but when I got into the city, I had to stop and shut off the car and pop the hood and wait about 45 minutes until the car cooled to the "Normal" operating temperature. Is there a fuse that could have blown and if so, why no lights or warnings? Thanks!
 

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It could be a couple of things. Make sure that the plug is pluged in totaly on the fan. Turn on the ac the low speed fan should come on. If it dose not you might have a bad fan. If it dose not come on I would get a volt/ohm meter and set it for dc voltage start the car and stick the real lead in the wires and the black lead to a body ground. If you don't get 12 volts from the wires you could have a bad constant controol relay module. It is the black box located at the front of the air box and is probly a dealer part.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yesterday when I was stopped with the hood open to cool the engine, I tried the A/C with the key on but the engine off and the fan didn't come on. I'll try with the engine running and see if it kicks on. If not, I'll break out the multimeter and see if I can figure something out. :(
 

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It can be your fan or something else...

If you have a scanner you can test both of the fan speeds (yes your fan has a low and a high speed). If not put your AC on. Your low speed fan should turn on. If it does not then you are getting close to the problem.

Turn off the car and disconnect the fan motor. Be careful not to break the connector like I did. You can check the resistance between the fan motor connectors. Resistance should peg the scale between either of the two ends and the center (common) wire. If not you have a suspected bad fan motor.

If you do not have a ohm meter start the car and check the voltage at the connectors. The middle to one of the ends should read more than 10.5 volts. If it does then you motor is bad. Do not run the car long with the fan disconnected.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
At the moment, I can't find my multimeter, so I just got back in from outside and I have NO fan movement when the A/C runs... :(
 

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Just went through this with my 95. Pull off the connector to the fan and look at it. For some reason mine started arching inside the plug(melting) and it slowly make a bad connection. You may be able to reseat it and be okay. I replaced my fan and connector lasted for about 6 months and it did it again. I finnally got fed upand hard wired it. I made a pigtail type connection. Used some heavy duty barrel splicers. Seem to be working fine
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I just went back out and tried these things....

-> Spinning the fan by hand --
It spun like there was nothing wrong with it. No resistance when I tried spinning it or anything.

-> Inspecting the plug & harness --
I unplugged it and the connector looked good & clean. No molten plastic. ;)

-> Tested the plug connector with a 12v LED
I went out and hooked up an LED (since I can't find my meters) to the middle prong and the LED lit up when the A/C compressor was running. Does this mean the motor for the fan is shot?

J.Miller said:
If you do not have a ohm meter start the car and check the voltage at the connectors. The middle to one of the ends should read more than 10.5 volts. If it does then you motor is bad. Do not run the car long with the fan disconnected.
 

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I had this exact thing happen to my old buick century. The darn thing would start overheating and i came to the conclusion it was the motor i would have noticed sooner but i didnt have a temp guage or volt guage and i couldnt hear it :) . An easy repair
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay, so if my fan motor is shot, can I just replace the motor or do I have to get a whole new fan assembly? I heard these fans move a lot of air, so there wouldn't be a need for a high performance fan if there are any made or compatible with the Thunderbirds?

This sucks. My only car and it's going to be driven daily like this until it's fixed. :( At least it's only a 2 mile drive to work. :rolleyes:
 

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95lxv8 said:
-> Tested the plug connector with a 12v LED
I went out and hooked up an LED (since I can't find my meters) to the middle prong and the LED lit up when the A/C compressor was running. Does this mean the motor for the fan is shot?

Yes, if it was the middle prong to one of the outer prongs. One outer prong is for the high speed fan the other is for the low speed fan.

You have some choices.

1. Buy a stock fan with the shroud.
2. Upgrade: IE. Buy a mark8 fan and Shroud and modify it.
3. Be cheap like me and buy the motor. Drill out the rivets. Use bolts with washers, lock washers and permanent lock tight

Rock on!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, I'm gonna' have to go with Option #3. Where did you find your fan motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ouch. $93, huh? I was kinda' hoping the motor would be cheaper since a new fan assembly is around $139. :mad:
 
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