Well, I just drive mine, seems to do that on its own. I had 2 people in my car today, A/C full blast, 96 degrees outside, never went higher than the lower-part of the "O" in "NORM" when I was in traffic.
That all depends on how hot it is outside and if you have a good mixture of coolant and if your fan clutch is working and your water pump doesn't have 80K or more... What is you Bird like I might be able to help you...
dude what exactly do you mean if your water has more than 80,000 miles, this is my problem i have a new water pump b/c mines it like wines sometimes, but the mechanics wont change it unless its leaking, and my car just turned to 103,000 miles.
My thunderbird is dark ford blue, i have 71K miles on it, had the coolant flushed once since i got it at 60K, coolant is still a brownish color. If i run the ac full blast the needle will start rising up near the r or m in norm, and my accelaration just gets really slugish and unresponsive. Only modifications i have made so far is a K&N panel filter, and replaced stock muffler with a flowmaster that has a tip welded on to it. I keep up with the car, keep the filter clean, make sure all fluids are where they should be, and do oil changes about every 3k miles, and other than the fact that she gets really hot some times and runs slugish if it's nice and cool outside she runs incredible.
runs sluggish with no power sometimes, but she runs incredible most of the times, i press down on the accelerator and will her struggleling, and she runs by the r and the m in norm for the temperature. Dude have you looked into this??? i have a feeling is the water pump thats not circulating right, b/c when the water pump goes bad usually the car will loose a bit of power, but the mechanics tell me that as long as its not leaking theirs no problem, but i think this is wrong.
Okay guys this is where I consider myself an expert. I had to basically replace my entire cooling system (save the heater core).
First the water pump: The pump is usually good for 80k to 100k. When it goes you will know. The temp will jump and drop really quickly and the water pump will be throwing coolant all over the inside of the engine. If you want to replace your water pump because your bird has 100K plus and you aren't sure about the waterpump condition then replace it. It's cheap insurance over getting your car overheated or getting stranded in the middle of nowhere (this happened to me...).
Second about the "brown" flush: Doughnuts to dollars your radiator is plugged and you need to have it "rodded" out. Any radiator shop can do this. I will warn you though, if you have it rodded the rust and crud build-up may be the only thing keeping your radiator from leaking so you may have a leaky radiator and it WON'T be the fault of the shop. So you may want to get a new radiator entirely. Modine makes a nice replacement radiator that is almost half of what you could get it for at Ford.
Also, your water pump may have some nasty build-up and the impeller may be disintegrating (yeah this happened to me too...). If you are going as far to replace the radiator or the water-pump or both go ahead and replace the hoses too.
Sluggish performance in hot weather:
This is actually a couple of things:
The fan-clutch is fully engaged with the s-belt so it causes an awful-lot of drag.
The A/C is on and the compressor spends most of it time witht eh clutch engaged causing MORE drag on the s-belt.
Last, a brief lesson in physics: When it get's hot the air molecules are moving faster and become less dense. As this happens it is harder to get a concentration of air into the intake of your car. The result is less available power because of a lack of combustable O2 in the engine.
Thus, when it's hot you get less power. Superchargers and Turbos recompress the intake air in different ways but having the same result better dense air and effectively more displacement.
It's actually okay to have the car all over the NORM on the temp. It's even okay to have it a bit a above for short periods. You aren't risking a REAL overheat until you actually get to the "tick" before the red "H". It is NOT good to run it above the NORM for very long because even if you don't overheat you risk doing long term heating damage like loosing a valve or cracking a head-gasket.
Yeah, I put on an electric fan this summer, and before I put it on I never really kept tabs on the temp I just checked it every so often to make sure it was alright but I never really memorized it's position during hot days. well now I put on an electric fan and it runs in the NORM area but usually near the r when it's probably a heat index of 90-100. still safe right? when I first put it on it sucked A** but then I got this mega grey stuff and put it on the temp sensing needle to conduct heat better from the radiator to the needle and now it runs at the R or so. So I'm good right? I mean I usually accelerate fast at stop lights and such frequently. so I'm thinking that's good. I really need a REAL temperature gauge. what was Ford thinking? Idiots. "Yeah I think my engine is running kinda warm, it's running like mid R's to high M's." What a car buff I sound like.
Yeah I know... what a temp guage N-O-R-M. "Yep it was pretty hot todayI was upto the middle of the the "M"..." Oh well. It's better than nothing. You have to guess that the "C" is like 120f and the "H" is like 260 or 280. Eh... lol...
I drive in 90+ days everyday and I've yet to hit the O on my guage this is with the AC on full blast. I hit the O recently tho when i took an 8 hour trip to the beach which really didn't worry me. I will tell you though since I put on a SC front cover instead of the boxy 90 lx front my car has run a bit cooler and I think it helps air get into the bay so my accel is better too.
As for the lost of power with the AC on that's a given on any make or model. Also my water pump has 128,000 on it and it's great. My moms areostar has a factory one on it with 248,000 so I don't know about the 80K waterpump rule sounds like something Advanced would try to sell me on. Maybe we have " a factory freak" but I don't think my water pump is going anywhere soon.
Well it sounds like a factory freak but maybe not. As far as I know the average 302 waterpump is good for about 100k sometimes less I've had two that crapped out before that. One at 82k and another at 91k. I also know other guys that similar stories about water pump life on 302's. The waterpump on a 3.8 is not shaped the same but has the same impeller and basic setup. It's generally the bearings that tend to crap out then the seal behind the impeller goes throwing water & coolant onto the s-belt and surrounding areas.
Come to think of it my sister's '87 Maxima didn't need a new water pump until about 130k... Maybe the Ford one isn't built as well. I don't know.
My heat stopped working about 6 months ago, it would work on and off ( whenever it felt like) I figured the coolant was not circulating properly, so i replaced the pump wich had 110,000 miles on it........Guess what!!! The heat started working again, I replaced it even when my car never got hot.
b/c some people say, do not replace the water pump until it starts to leak, but i dont think this information is accurate. B/c i remember one time my mothers aerostar was overheating, so the mechanic came over and as soon as he saw what the van was doing, he replaced the water pump, and it wasnt leaking. It fixed the problem.
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