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There are lift brackets available, that bolt to the sides of the heads; one toward the front, one toward the rear.

I used metal bars bolted to those holes.

They're 10 or 12mm diameter, AFAICR.
 

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Just remove the altenator and place a single bolt in one of the holes and support it from there. There will be no need to support the rear of the motor since it will still be bolted to the trans which is bolted to the crossmember.
 

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Just remove the alternator and place a single bolt in one of the holes and support it from there. There will be no need to support the rear of the motor since it will still be bolted to the trans which is bolted to the crossmember.
What he said, but I used two bolts, one in each of the alternator tabs and an engine support similar to this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96524

This is the one have:


(That engine support is one of the best specialized tools I've ever purchased and I've used it for a lot of different applications)

The hoist legs are really going to be in the way if you planning on dropping the crossmember.

I wouldn't suggest using the alternator tabs on an aluminum engine though.

But just my .02. :thumbsup:
 

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Not the best picture, but see where the two tabs on the alternator bolt to the block?



That is where you bolt your chains to.

But not having a transmission does make it a little more difficult.

Since you don't have a transmission, I would run chains from a couple of bellhousing bolt holes forward to the alternator bolt holes and then center the engine support front to rear on the engine and hook the chains there. Basically the same thing you would do with the hoist.

But I've never done that, so I can't say it will or won't work. I just think you should figure a way to support the engine without a hoist.

But of course, just my .02. :thumbsup:
 

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any pictures of the "holes" that grog6 is talking about?

seth
I haven't found any; I was going to post a link...

The pic is on page 03-01B-58 of the helm manual.

It's in the front on the drivers' side, and the rear of the head on the passenger side.

The lift brackets are part of the "Rotunda Engine Lift Bracket Set", lol.

There are two holes, spaced maybe 2" apart; The take M12-1.75x20 bolts.

A 1.4" piece of steel with holes spaced just so, and bent to clear the shock towers.

It's probably $300 from ford,lol.

Wow...
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_18791_621/rotunda_303_d087_ford_4.6_engine_lifting_bracket.html

I really can't see paying that for a piece of sheetmetal.

Actually, here are pics:

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/fordguy4u/2009-07-31_170312_A1.pdf

Google is great, if you just get the right search. :)

Page 2 of 5 shows the brackets on the side of the engine.
 

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I use the holes in the heads as well. A couple of easy to make bracket would help, without them you will probably bust a valvecover.
I would think you could make them with a piece of steel about 1.5 inches wide and at least 3/16 thick. cut the pieces to about 4 inches each and put holes in both ends that are about 1/2 inch. Bolt the lower part to the heads and put a bolt in the top through your chain.
Alan
 
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