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Discussion Starter #1
Since replacing the engine a few years back I've had a constant problem with the pulleys. A few days after the swap I started the car and instantly heard what sounded like 2 mute dogs having a beat down inside the engine bay. I lift the hood to find the hood liner above the alternator shredded as if a squirrel had decided to use it to build a nest. In fact I figured for a few minutes that maybe I had started the car while a squirrel was gathering its nesting material. I noticed pieces of the belt lying around and I removed shreds that were still hanging from the belt.

Unfortunately a few blocks down the road the car dies and wouldn't even attempt to start. I blamed it on the fuel pump and pulled my car to the shop to have them figure it out. Apparently when the belt was shredded pieces of it smacked what I beleive to be the crank sensor causing it to shut down and not start. Pushing the plug back in fixed that problem. Well, until a new belt did the same thing.

For some reason any new belt will just have about a 1/4" or so of its front edge sliced off within a few hundred miles. The sensor usually gets smacked again and again so I had gotten used to pulling over, sliding uder the car, and pushing the plug back in. For the last 2 years I've just not let the constant squeaking bother me until now. The shop who swapped the engine had no idea why it would be doing this and staring at the belt from above or below while it's spinning hasn't revealed anything.

Has anyone ever heard of this? Do I just need to add a washer somewhere like on the alternator? I cannot imagine what could be out of alignment and how it could have become misaligned.
 

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How's the tension? What about your pulleys, they smooth spinning? No broken ribs?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Before replacing the engine I had to replace the idler pulley so I removed it and saved it for after the swap. I also replaced the tensioner with another stock tensioner and swapped the pulley with another new pulley and there was no change. The tension on the belt is fine and I may get the improved tensioner someday but for some reason back then I decided to stick with the stock one I think because of the looks.:rolleyes: The ribs aren't broken I guess except for the ones that were sliced off.:tongue:

All other pulleys are free spinning.
 

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i'd bet that something isn't lining up with the rest of the pulleys. Who installed the balancer? Check all the pulleys to see if they are all lined up with each other. They may look like they are to the eye, but they very likely aren't.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I also don't have the money at this time to throw parts at it hoping to diagnose it that way. Maybe I should have waited until after buying the new style tensioner before starting this topic. I was just hoping that maybe there is someone else who frequents these boards who's had this same problem or understands exactly what could be going on.

Maybe this'll help. I just went downstairs and took some notes that may point at the pulley that's causing this. First I'll just say whether the belt is at the front or back of the pulley and then anything else I noticed.

Alternator - Front
PS - Back (on track)
Water Pump - Front and it dances about 1/8"
Balancer - Front
Tensioner- Back and it shakes a bit but that probably coincides with water pump
Compressor - Front or Center (it's hard to tell)
Idler - Center

So it seems to me that if I used a couple of washers on the bolts of the alternator that could help. Then again looking at the above chart it could be the PS pulley but I don't see what I can possibly do to change that. Besides the Idler and the Tensioner the Water Pump is the only other pulley that isn't grooved so it makes some since that it tries to slid off there. Everytime I go through it in my head the Alternator just makes more sense because of how that could affect the way it's held on the Water Pump before being forced off track again on the Balancer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I recently noticed that the Compressor is running in 3 second intervals. I know I need to recharge my freon so that's not my real concern. It's just that when it does stop and start I can see the alternator tilting forward just a tad. It's a rather insignificant amount but I will tighten it and see if I can stop it. Maybe it's normal but I doubt that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Ah, now we're getting somewhere. I always thought that there was something missing on the back of the alternator. It was like that when I bought it so I didn't know what to look for. I guess I'll be going to the junk yard to see if can find one. Thank you so much master486!!!:headbang: I was hoping that you or someone as smart as you would figure it out and chime in!:bowdown:

Maybe it won't solve my problem but I have a good feeling that it will!:D Now if only I could find a pic of one just in case.:zdunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I finally found a bracket but now I need a 3rd bolt. Apparently the bolt that holds the alternator to the bracket is larger then the ones that go into the crossover. With the bracket in place it helps keep the alternator from moving as much but I want a bolt there that won't strip the threads of the alternator.

Does anybody have an idea what size bolt it is???
 

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Its the same diameter and pitch as the rest of the bolts that secure stuff down to the manifold. Seems like its a M6x1.25, but you should pull out one of the other bolts to compare just in case I am lying to you! I'm sure you can guesstimate a good bolt length depending on which alternator/bracket you have. I have never had a bracket on my aluminum block engine and have never had these problems. Perhaps I should check mine out to see if its flexing on A/C engagement.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The hole on the back of the alt. goes strait through so when it comes to the length of the bolt it shouldn't be a problem.



I've found a few topics where others have had a similar problem. In fact somebody had his alt. bolts break off!!! I have no reason not to use the bracket and now I finally have something that holds the throttle cable and the other cable next to it in place. I always thought that there should have been something in that area to keep them from resting on the manifold.
 

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The bracket you're looking for is a stamped metal piece. It has two bolts on the intake and one that attaches to the top mount in your pic. I'm with Rob, I think it's a 6mm. If you can't screw it in by hand it's not the right one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The bracket you're looking for is a stamped metal piece. It has two bolts on the intake and one that attaches to the top mount in your pic. I'm with Rob, I think it's a 6mm. If you can't screw it in by hand it's not the right one.
I guess you didn't read that I did find a bracket but the bolt is now my only problem.

I just wasted over $5 on bolts that didn't work the only 6mm I could find was a M6 1.00 and it was waaaay too small. I also tried M7 1.00, M8 1.00, and M8 1.25 without success. I believe that the other 2 bolts for the bracket are M6 because the one I tried slipped in and out like the one I took from the junkyard. I even tried a couple of 5/16" bolts but I'm getting nowhere. I've ran out of possible bolts at Lowes and Advance Auto Parts so I guess my next step will be the dealership.:(
 

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It is in fact a 6mm thread bolt, 1.0mm thread pitch, IIRC. Take a look inside that rear mounting hole, and see if the threads are boogered up. I just put a new alternator on the car last week, and re-used that top bolt. Then I promptly stripped the threads when tightening it down, didn't even use much force. I've had the alternators on my two 'Birds swapped back and forth several times, with no problems (tracking down problems, and such), so I KNOW I didn't tighten it too much on the new one. Problem was solved with a longer bolt, got down into un-boogered threads on the hole. I've got three disassembled alternators right next to me waiting on new bearings to arrive (rebuilding junkyard alternators is my new hobby, apparently), and they all have a 6mm bolt in the back. Is it possible to do a helicoil/thread insert in the back mounting hole on these things?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It is in fact a 6mm thread bolt, 1.0mm thread pitch, IIRC. Take a look inside that rear mounting hole, and see if the threads are boogered up. I just put a new alternator on the car last week, and re-used that top bolt. Then I promptly stripped the threads when tightening it down, didn't even use much force. I've had the alternators on my two 'Birds swapped back and forth several times, with no problems (tracking down problems, and such), so I KNOW I didn't tighten it too much on the new one. Problem was solved with a longer bolt, got down into un-boogered threads on the hole. I've got three disassembled alternators right next to me waiting on new bearings to arrive (rebuilding junkyard alternators is my new hobby, apparently), and they all have a 6mm bolt in the back. Is it possible to do a helicoil/thread insert in the back mounting hole on these things?
It's not as if the bolt wouldn't go in because the threads were gunked up. It went in and out without even touching the sides of the hole. If anything maybe the bolt wasn't long enough but I couldn't tell with it being dark outside. I'll look at again after work tomorrow and maybe then I can look down the hole and see what's going on.

The old belt was cut up some more on the way to work today. There was barely more than half of the belt left so I replaced it with the one I bought a few days ago. Then on the way home the new belt was shredded up a little. This happens anytime I go anywhere near WOT even without the A/C on. The alt. still moves a little with just the bracket in place but I don't see how it could be the cause of all of this. Besides finding the bolt I need all I can think of trying is replacing the tensioner.
 

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You have an alignment problem with your pulleies. We found thus with an o3 cobra where the blower pulleye wasn't seated in far enough. The bolt your looking for I think is a m8 1.25 about 2 1/2 inches long. Post a pic of the bracket you got because there are like 3 different kinds.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You have an alignment problem with your pulleies. We found thus with an o3 cobra where the blower pulleye wasn't seated in far enough. The bolt your looking for I think is a m8 1.25 about 2 1/2 inches long. Post a pic of the bracket you got because there are like 3 different kinds.
Thank you for the hope of getting it fixed someday!!! I just wish I knew how to adjust whichever pulley could be causing this.

As far as the bolt problem I now beleive it used to require an M6 but something screwed up the threads. It's as if someone knocked the bolt strait out with a hammer but visually the threads looked fine. Seeing as how the hole is now too big to be re-tapped for a M6 I tapped it for an M7 and now the alt. is finally braced!

I don't think I'm ready to swap belts just yet though. I'll try removing each pulley and reinstalling them after replacing the tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
While changing my oil I looked up to see if I can whether or not the crankshaft dampner was out of alignment. It appears to be aligned with everything else except maybe the power steering pulley. Besides, I don't have a pulley to even try to take the cranshaft dampner off but I can probably manage removing the power steering pulley and playing with it. I just wish I knew if there was a way of adjusting it before wasting my time.
 

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I had a power steering pulley go bad; it was bent, somehow. It caused the rear rib of the belt to peel off from the rest.

You could see the pulley wiggling as it rotated; I thought the pump was bad until I removed the pulley.

I would try taking it off, and putting it back, to see if it isn't seated properly or something. While you have it off, check it for straightness.
 
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