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Discussion Starter #1
Guys, This is a continuation of this post:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=100387

I wanted to update it, but I couldnt edit the title, and I didnt think anyone would look in the old post, thats why I made a new one.

Here's a list of what I tried, how it worked out, and when I tried it.

Crank Sensor (Brand New): Put it in through the week and tried it in hotlaps. Still has the same miss as before, like its loosing ignition.

Ignition Module (Off of parts car): Put it on after hotlaps, for the heat race. The car still idles fine, pulls around the pits fine. Made about 1/2 lap under the green, the miss started and got so bad the car shut off. Then it wouldnt start. I got pushed into the pits, where it fired right back up, and I went back out on the track. The same thing happened again, so I pulled into the infeild.

**Swapped back my original Igniton Module because the other one seemed to make it worse.**

PCM (Cali emissions, but known good, I tested it earlier in the year): Put it on for our make-up feature from the week before. The car had a worse miss than in hotlaps, but no stalling completely. It no longer is just a quick miss, but a pretty good stumble for a good while. Then it would have power for about 1/2 lap then back to running like poo.

**Swapped back my original PCM, so the car was how it was in hotlaps, when the miss was the least apparent.**

PCM (Stock 95, Non Cali, original for my car): Put it on for the feature for the night, ran the same as the previous feature.

My miss is getting worse, which may be a good thing, maybe I'll be able to find it now. I checked basic stuff in-between the races too, connectors, plug wires, stuff like that, but nothing coming up.

The shame of it is, the car is setup pretty good now, and when it would have power I could run anyone down. I just hope to get this worked out.

Thanks for all your help before guys, and any more help in advance,

Brandon
 

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I just fixed a Miss / Stumble in my car. The car would Miss throughout the RPM range, and it would hesitate and run pretty rough when I put my foot onto the throttle and would run great in the higher RPM's.
My check engine light came on, and I scanned the code - P0402 Excessive EGR Flow, turned out the DPFE sensor went bad, so I replaced it and it didnt stumble anymore, but it still had a slgiht miss. Turned out the #8 spark plug wire was no good, so I changed that and it runs great now.
I dont know if you have scanned for codes at all, you said your Check engine light is on, but because you dont have the rear o2 sensors plugged in - which could cause it to run funny, but did you check for more codes to see if it is anything else coming up ??

- Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I havnt had a chance to check it for codes this time around. As far as the 02 sensors in the rear go, I dont belive it would be that, because of the fact that it ran awsome for 3 races. And if it was something in the computers memory, it should have been wiped out when I swapped the ECU's.

When it first started doing it about 2 weeks ago, I ran it for codes, and only came up with the codes for the 02 sensors missing and for the fuel tank missing.

I'll have to get a scan tool from in at work tomarrow and see what I come up with.

Thanks for the help,

Brandon
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've found a TSB that may help me out, 98-23-10, it has me checking the BARO PID which is in effect testing the MAF, maybe its just dirty, who knows. It says if its contaminated it will cause it to lean out under heavy loads, maybe the car is leaning out to the point that its getting a lean pop (my stalling situation). I'll pull out some plugs tomarrow, see how they're colored. Think I'm on the right track?

Thanks again for the help guys,

Brandon
 

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Yeah that is possible, it could be dirty, or the MAF could be bad.
But I would do like you said and pull the spark plugs and check them out .. see what they look like and if you can tell if one cylinder is giving you the misfire .. could point you in one direction.

- Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Uggh, I went and got a friends mac code reader, and it has a little scrolling selection, well I went to hit "Read Codes" and it switched to "Clear Codes" and there's no "Click OK to clear codes" so I F'd Myself, and it hurt. So now I'm going to try and get a New Gen home to check the PIDS I found in that TSB, and untill then, maybe try and get it out through a feild some where to act up.

Going out now to pull out the plugs to check them out,

Anyone know of another way to test a MAF?

Thanks for the help guys,

Brandon
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pulled out 4 spark plugs, 2 on each side. They have 6 races on them, and they are BONE white, shouldnt they be like tan-ish?

Ugh, what a pain in the arse.

Thanks again fellas,

Brandon
 

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White tips on your plugs ?? Its running too hot .. the Timing or Air/fuel mixture could be off.
Not a good sign, but yeah .. check or clean the MAF and pull some codes after they set again.

- Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, the porceolen (Spelling? LOL) around the electrode is white (the stuff in the center of the plug not sure on the technical term) , not the tip that comes up off the plug, that is still the same color as the metal its made of. Like I said, they only have 6 races on them, thats about 30 HARD miles.

Thanks again,

Brandon
 

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Have you checked to see if you have arching from the plug wires ?
Also it could be as simple as a injector harness not plugged in all the way .


The white they are talking about would be on the tips of the spark plugs .
That would indicate a miss on that cylinder ! doubt full because it would throw a code but worth the time .

Have you tried another pcm ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Found It

I have swapped PCM's,

Well, I found what has been causing my problem.

I know the picture is not the best, but here it is:



This is the module that mounts in front of the air box, if you look closly at the crappy picture you can see where the red wire, the one on the upper left, is wore through and has been grounding out. So I started the car, grounded that wire quick, and it stumbled.

What module is this, I wanna trace that wire on a schematic to see where else it goes, so I know what else it may have fried.

Thanks for ALL your help guys, This may not be all of my problem, but its got to be most of my problem, I dont race this weekend so it will be next weekend till I get to see for sure if this is it.

Thanks again guys,

Brandon
 

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If it's the module that mounts between the airbox and the passender side headlight it's the CCRM. It controls many things including your fuel pump and cooling fan
 

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I have that same AC delete kit on my Bird. Nice not having all that extra junk. :D

That is your IRCM - Integrated Relay Control Module ( not CCRM )
Looks like that is circuit #24 - Red wire. Its the EEC Relay Control Line ( goes to the relay inside the IRCM that controls the EEC Power.

That Power wire branches off to many other places .. like the Canister Purge, MAF Sensor, IAC, Fuel Injectors, o2 Sensors, etc ...

So if that is grounding out, I can see it causing major problems like you are describing to the point where it would cut off the car and / or make your engine run incorrectly.

Any idea why the wire is bare ??

Fix that and let us know how it runs afterwards.

- Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Any idea why the wire is bare ??
- Dan

Dan, thanks for all the other info, helps out a ton, and explains alot.

As far as your question, uhhh, time for me to come clean. Last year when I ran the car w/o headlight covers, I drilled holes in the bottom of the air box to stuff the air in there. I just kind of had the module hanging to the side, didnt have any idea what it was. Then this year when I put the covers on, I put the module back where it belongs and I guess just never bolted it down. Ooops. My girlfriend says I win the Dip**** of the Year award. LOL

Dan, maybe this was my problem with my other stuff, because I'm sure I moved the module to make room for the filter. :)

Thanks again for all your help guys,

Brandon
 
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