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Discussion Starter #1
i want to put some new valve covers on my bird and do not know which or what will fit. i need ideas. also i am getting ready to drain all my fluids, such as oil, trans, washer, etc. can someone help me out with a shopping list of things to get.

erik
chsplayer
 

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This is just out of curiosity, but why are you draining your windshield washer fluid? Is there a recommended service interval for this I'm not aware of (joking)? I do believe bbk makes a set of cam covers, but I'm not sure if they are Romeo or Windsor.
 

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This just out of curiosity, but why are you draining your windshield washer fluid? Is there a recommended service interval for this I'm not aware of (joking)? I do believe bbk makes a set of cam covers, but I'm not sure if they are Romeo or Windsor.
i beleive the reccomended service interval for changing washer fluid is 100.59824 miles, or every other car wash, whichever comes first. unless of course you're servicing rear window washer fluid then it bumps up to every 200.684 miles or every third car wash.:wiggle:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i goofed, i just want to start with new fluids. any brands of oil thats good, i have used motorcraft in the past, open to options. also what type of valve covers, can i do a search or something
 

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mobil1 is great stuff. so is royal purple but for almost half the price i wouldn't put in anything but a new engine. plus using synthetic oil in a high mileage engine is a bad idea. it tends to cause all the sludge that's packed into the cracks and crevices in the engine to wash out, and the oil starts leaking. as far as power steering fluid IMO ATF is the best thing. it's a detergent fluid so it's constantly cleaning plus it's standard in all ford vehicles. as far as trans fluid goes (i'm assuming you have an automatic) use whatever brand is specified for ford vehicles (usually mercon or mercon V) you CAN NOT use fluid for GM or CHRYSLER vehicles because they have different friction modifiers in them and will cause damage to ford transmissions. as valvoline has a great synthetic blend high mileage auto tranny fluid which should work great and last a long time in your car. for break fluid dot 4 is fine. again valvoline makes synthetic dot 4 break fluid but i'd suggest flushing your entire system to ensure you have all of the same type of fluid in the system. i'd recomend using lucas synthetic (if you can find it) in the diff. i think those are all the major fluid systems. OH, and for the washer fluid use that green prestone bug wash stuff. WORKS GREAT!!! that's my $.02 for now
 

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1. They just told you what kind of valve cover you would need. I purchased some out of my summit magazine, they're great. Do a search, and when I say that, I mean here inside TCCOA, and also outside websites and aftermarket companies.

2. Oil brand. I use Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5-20, and sometimes I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5-20. It depends on how much money I have to spend on oil..

I always use Ford Motorcraft Oil Filter. =D

3. For tranny, use Mercon-V. You should really not use any other kind of ATF fluid if your tranny is basicly stock.

4. While you say you want to drain all your fluids, are you doing this just for the hell of it to get some clean liquid in your car, or are you doing maintenance... I ask because you want to flush that, but you didn't mention your coolant, your power steering fluid, your brake fluid, and your rear differential. Power Steering and Rear Differential are the most highly disregarded part in the major tune-up procedure. I drain my P/S fluid every 50,000 miles, and I never get that whine that other FORD vehicles come with. I have seen how dirty and contained that fluid gets and have kept mine clean every since. Same with my brake fluid, I flushed that out at 100,000 miles, and will do so every 100k miles. I also change my rear diff. fluid every 70,000 miles. I use mobil 1 synthetic 75-80 i believe it is. I will have to double check on that one. Also I use the trac-loc addictive in with my fluid since I have a ford trac-loc,

Sorry #4 is soo long.:(


There's some advice for you:)
 

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think again, because you're way off base...are you putting the valve covers on the block itself, or on the heads?? (hint: the valve covers dont go on a shortblock)
ok i realize i misspoke. i know valve/cam covers don't go on the block. i was just under the impression that mn-12's used windsor blocks, and therefore windsor heads. if my information is wrong i'm more than open to a correction.
 

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According to the tech articles from this site, all birds and cougars are romeo engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i am wanting to do a complete tune up on the bird since it has been sitting for 6 months. i want fresh fluids so that way i have no problems. but how would i go about changing the other fluid such as rear differentual, etc
 

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I used to have a set of bbk's on my 96.
Thet fit but the kids at votech had to lift my motor to get them on.I would highly sugest soild motor mounts at passenger side to a thickness to a sheet of typing paper close to the shocktower. They are flipin huge over stock. They won't ever leack again like the stock one's or warp like the plastic. It makes working on the brake booster and such impossible with them on.http://community.carcrazycentral.com/PhotoViewSubset.aspx?UserID=8629&PhotoID_List=61676,61675,61674,61673,25530,25529,25528,23947,23699,23698,23697,23544,23543,23538,23537,23536&PhotoID_Current=23543
 

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there is a pic of them on
 

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i am wanting to do a complete tune up on the bird since it has been sitting for 6 months. i want fresh fluids so that way i have no problems. but how would i go about changing the other fluid such as rear differentual, etc
If the car has been sitting for months, or years, than the rear diff. fluid really isn't one of the most IMPORTANT things to do, but it is something that should be taken care of regularly. Like for me, I swapped my fluid at 70,000, and it did look pretty knarly, and alot of crud had built up. When I changed fluid, I did actually notice my trac-loc hooked up a little better. Just slightly 1/2 throttle from a dead stop and instead of one wheel leaving a little mark on take off it hook's them both up nicely. =D

For the rear diff., you would have to remove a few bottom bolts and loosen some of the top ones, and pry just a little bit to crack the bottom gasket seal and have the fluid drain out.

For me, I took the rear end out of the car. (only 15min job if you know what your doing.) You know need about 4 different bolts to do this job, and about 2-3 wrenches of about the same size as bolts. If I remember offhand one is 18mm, one is 13/16.... All I can remember :confused:, sorry lol

For how I did it, I took the driver's wheel off, took the rear disc brake off, tied it up out of the way. Then disconnected e-brake cable. Took the 1 bolt out holding the upper control arm, than the 2 bolts holding the bottom together, and I took the driver half-shaft out whole. Then I moved the rear end to the driver side to release the passenger side half-shaft, and then I was able to drop the rear end and put it on my bench in the garage. It's much easier to work on at normal height than under the car IMO. :D
 
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