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Hey guys. Had another problem today. I went to get my car washed and then went to the gas station to vacuum out my car. The car was idling for a long time during those occassions. Got back in my car and see that the temp was all the way over to overheating. Drove about a half mile right down the road pulled into wal-mart and there was antifreeze coming out of the overflow tank. I don't think its the thermostat. The top hose is hot when the engine is running. However the fan does not seem to be kicking on. Where are the fuses for the fan or maybe the relay? Anything else I might be overlooking here?
 

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fan relay

Hey guys. Had another problem today. I went to get my car washed and then went to the gas station to vacuum out my car. The car was idling for a long time during those occassions. Got back in my car and see that the temp was all the way over to overheating. Drove about a half mile right down the road pulled into wal-mart and there was antifreeze coming out of the overflow tank. I don't think its the thermostat. The top hose is hot when the engine is running. However the fan does not seem to be kicking on. Where are the fuses for the fan or maybe the relay? Anything else I might be overlooking here?[/QUOT check the fuses by the battery 1st, if there good im thinking the realys in the icrm are bad.....(it's in back of the passenger headlight, infront of the airbox)........their are some #..u have to get the # off to match. 1....8mm small bolt to unhook, 1 10mm to unscrew relay box from harness..i have a few in stock. thx tony.
 

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there is a fuse panel in the engine compartment. there the big square fuses. number 5 fuse 60 amp
 

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my car did this when i first bought it the fuse melted and blew. i also how to get a new fan cause it went up in smoke. so what i did was got a 60amp circuit breaker and wired it in directly to the yellow wire big yellow wire running off of the old fuse location. and haven't had any problems since. for some reason i've seen this happen alot on the 94-95 tbird and cougars where the fuse melts and u have to rewire it.
 

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might have fried the fan I've done it twice on one of my 3.8's, if theres a burning plastic smell.... thats it, of if the motor bearings sound like a mouse running on its little metal exercise wheel than you need a new one.
 

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haha hear u there mine sounded like that i thought i messed some think up when i built the motor cause it happened right after i put the motor back in and drove it home. scared the crap out of me. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Alright.. Tommorrow I am going to look a bit deeper into this. It's to dark right now. I did have to fill the reservoir up with Anti-Freeze, I lost alot more than I thought. I must have been spewing all over the road before I pulled over. Just to make sure I seen three wires on the plug. Which ones are the power ones? There should always be power going to the fan when the ac is on correct?

Also a question. As long as I dont idle my car for long and try to avoid traffic I should be Ok as far as going a few miles from my house and back right? Lukily the temps around here for now are in the 30's and 40's.
 

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The black wire is ground and the other two provide power, one during high-speed operation and one during low-speed. With the A/C on, the fan should be on. If it isn't getting power it's a fuse or the CCRM.

You should be ok for a short drive but watch the temp gauge closely.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Alright I looked a little more closely today. The fan is not getting any power at all. Now I let the car warm up to where the fan is supposed to kick in. I heard a click coming right from that box the CCRM. Im guessing it must be shot? How much should I expect to pay for it and where can I get it besides a JY in case they don't have it. I looked it up at Napa and Autozone and its not there.

One more thing... At the Junkyard I seen a 95 Thunderbird. I wasnt sure what model it was but could I use the CCRM from that in my 94 cougar?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright well I went to the JunkYard today and got that part. Put it in and the fan is still not kicking in either with the AC on or the gauge getting hot. Any other ideas? I'm about to just wire a switch to it and I will just have to keep an eye on the temp gauge.
 

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Under the hood there is a fuse panel with some large fuses. The #5 fuse is 60A and is for the fan. I re-read this thread and didn't see where you said you checked it. You should also check for voltage at the fuse if it's good and the fan is still not working.

Also, you can test that the PCM is activating the fan by unplugging the coolant temp sensor. If you are looking at the front of the engine, there are 2 sensors in the coolant crossover. The one on the left (driver's side) is the coolant temp sensor for the PCM. Unplug it and start the engine, then see if the fan comes on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright thanks. I will check those fuses tommorrow and the PCM thing. If that doesnt work and I decide to just put a switch on the fan what gauge wire should I use and what kind of switch amp wise should I look into. I could use that just a temp soultion.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Under the hood there is a fuse panel with some large fuses. The #5 fuse is 60A and is for the fan. I re-read this thread and didn't see where you said you checked it. You should also check for voltage at the fuse if it's good and the fan is still not working.

Also, you can test that the PCM is activating the fan by unplugging the coolant temp sensor. If you are looking at the front of the engine, there are 2 sensors in the coolant crossover. The one on the left (driver's side) is the coolant temp sensor for the PCM. Unplug it and start the engine, then see if the fan comes on.
I am officially stumped. The #5 fuse is good. Power is also going to the fuse. I unplugged the sensor and still no go. I unplugged the sensor with the fan wire plugged in and it still did not go on with the ac on or the the car going into the temp range where the fan should kick on. I then unplugged the wire and checked for current at the connector and still no current with the sensor unplugged. Would anyone happen to have a diagram for this on their CD or something. If I cant figure this out I am probally going to send it to a mechanic in a week or two. Luckily its cold enough out now that I don't have to worry about overheating to much unless the car is idling or I am stuck in really bad traffic.

Just to make sure that I have the right sensor it is the one that is right behind the thermostat area and to the lower right of the alternator right?
 

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I am officially stumped. The #5 fuse is good. Power is also going to the fuse. I unplugged the sensor and still no go. I unplugged the sensor with the fan wire plugged in and it still did not go on with the ac on or the the car going into the temp range where the fan should kick on. I then unplugged the wire and checked for current at the connector and still no current with the sensor unplugged. Would anyone happen to have a diagram for this on their CD or something. If I cant figure this out I am probally going to send it to a mechanic in a week or two. Luckily its cold enough out now that I don't have to worry about overheating to much unless the car is idling or I am stuck in really bad traffic.

Just to make sure that I have the right sensor it is the one that is right behind the thermostat area and to the lower right of the alternator right?
The problem you are experiencing is precisely why I have JUNKED my 95.
Goooo '96!


There doesn't seem to be any real reason for it-- it just overheats. For the hell of it. And the fan doesn't go on. Have you replaced the fan??

-Ghost
 

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I'm assuming you have a multimeter then, and know how to use it to measure voltage and resistance. Use the continuity tone if you have it, it's easier. Otherwise set it to ohms to check continuity.


From what I read in post #9 you checked for power at the fan, THEN heard the click from the CCRM. Well, it's not going to have power until after you hear that click, that is the sound of the fan relay in the CCRM closing. CCRM= Constant Control Relay Module, it's a fancy name for a box full of relays. So, seeing as how you heard the relay inside the CCRM click on, that rules out the temp sensor, EEC, and related wiring. It doesn't rule out the possibility that the relay is bad...it can activate but the contacts may be bad and unable to pass current. So, wait for the CCRM relay to click, then check for power at both of the + wires at the fan motor, using the black wire in the fan connector for ground/common. If you have power (and it will only be on one of the two + wires, not both at the same time) then that rules out the ground, fuse, relay contacts, and related wiring. Fan motor is probably bad, so to verify this connect it directly to the battery and see if it runs on both speeds. If not, it's junk.

If you don't find any power at the fan connector after the CCRM relay activates, remove the fuse from the fuse panel and check it carefully for damage. Use the ohmmeter/continuity tester to check it if you're in doubt. Also, you can check for power in the fuse holder- ground the black lead of your meter, and probe the fuse socket with the other. One side should show hot, the other side should show nothing. If that is good, check for continuity from the dead side of the fuse socket to the CCRM fan relay input, this should be two black and orange wires on pins 3 and 4 of the CCRM connector (these wires join together and run to the fan fuse as one circuit), it's held on to the CCRM with one bolt. If you have good continuity there, test continuity from the CCRM fan relay output to the fan motor itself, I don't have the pin numbers available for that but I'm sure a search would turn up something. You can always probe around with the meter and find the correct pins that way. If everything checks out okay there, then it's gotta be the relay contacts that are bad...replace the CCRM if this is the case. You can double check by connecting the fan motor directly to battery power, if you'd like. It should run on both speeds.

Good luck, let us know if you need more help.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Wow thank you for all that info. I have been using a test light. Should I go get a multimeter then for this? I thought it would do the same thing. Tommorrow I will go up and pick one up at Wal-Mart. Ill try all the things you mentioned in here with that. Again thanks for your help.
 

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When my fan went bad it smelled like burning plastic/fireworks and before that sounded like a mouse wheel, like Chris said. It could also be a bad connector from the fan and wires.
 
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