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I have a couple of problems I thought I would bring up and see what you guys think. BTW i have a 96 4.6L V8

First off, this has been going on for a couple of months now, but now it seams like its doing it more often then not. when I start up my car especially in the mornings(I live in Texas, so its not like the engine is cold) it starts off ideling around 500rpms, and sometimes when I back up and stop to put it in drive, it will die. but anywho, I get going, and no matter how fast I'm going, if I let off the gas, it imediatly drops a good 1k rpms, and if I stop at a light, it still dosent idel above 500rpms, now use to, it would wake up or whatever after a couple of minutes, and start ideling around 1k like it always has, but lately its taking longer and longer.

This one just started a couple of days ago... when I go full throtel from a complete stop, or when I'm just going down the highway and press the gas to full throtle, the engine seams to "lag" for better words. The RPMS will increase, but I wont go any faster, then after a few seconds, it shifts and I go... very wired, I've checked the tranny fluid, and its at a fine level(I also got a tranny cooler on ot) And I've checked all the vacum hoses I could find, seam to be ok also.

This hapened about a month ago, I was driving down the interstate and my check engine light came on, so I found the closest ABC auto parts and they pulled the codes for me, it was the famous P0174(prolly not the right code, dont remember) but it says Lean in Bank 2, I looked it up here at the time, and yall says its usually the o2 sensors, well, i put some injector cleaner and its been about a month now, and the light has still not come on, but its acting the same(really laggy) that it was at the time it threw the codes. I thought I would try a couple things and see what yall thing before spending 70$ a pop for 3 o2 sensors.

Overall, its just really laggy, seams sick, not sure what all's wrong, what should I do?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Well, I'm certainly no expert on the 4.6, but when my car started bogging off idle and dipping down to almost dying if I left it in Drive at a stop light, and started hesitating at around 60mph every so often, it turned out to be a bad MAF sensor code. I unplugged it and the car runs much better with no hesitations, bogging or dying. When I pick up my car from the tranny rebuild (tomorrow), I plan on cleaning the MAF sensor like the article here says and seeing if that fixes the problem and turns the Check Engine light off.

Those other problems concerning downshifting and slipping, I wouldn't know much except to ask if you have done the infamous "J-Mod" yet. Do these cars have a throttle position sensor that could go bad?

You might try cleaning the MAF sensor and see if that helps, but who knows? :confused: I'm dumb. :(
 

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the tranny is comletly stock besides the cooler, I always keep my MAF clean, my engine shines most of the time :)... on the outside at least, I dont know much about machanics ovbiously, but I take care of it.
 

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The MAF operates on a *very* narrow range of voltage. IF THERE IS ONE THING I might suggest, it's that if there is ANY "insignificant" corrosion on the connector, it will cause all sorts of trouble. Start by cleaning the connection and reconnecting. Try it! Please! I am a refugee from a much more techically oriented group. and this sounds really familiar!
 

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Just because your MAF is as clean as an operating room, doesn't mean that there

isn't something wrong with it.
 

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Yes, of course the MAF has parts which can wear out. I'm speaking specifically about the MAF's electrical connection to the wiring harness. Wiggle the wire connector gently with the engine running to see if it makes any difference. It doesn't take more than a few ohms resistance in the connection between MAF and harness to throw things off, due primarily as I mentioned, to the narrow range of voltage in which the MAF operates. If you have an accurate ohmeter, you can check for resistance between the MAF's body and reference ground. The solution is often to cycle the connector (unplug & replug), engine off, of course. You'll always find me doing the quickest, easiest, cheapest thing first. This is an easy check that could be the complete cause of the problem, so I feel it bears a look. As a general note, it's not a good idea to cycle this connector more than is necessary, because it wasn't designed with very many cycles in mind.
 

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My response was directed at Jack2413, who mentioned that his MAK is kept clean.

Of course, it is a good suggestion to check the connector.

I just got the impression from his post, that he wasn't too convinced about the problem being the MAF.
 
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