Hello, I'm considering having a new engine installed in my '97 4.6 'Bird. My current one has 165k wonderful miles. I would love to have a GT spec 4.6. I have neither the time or know how to do the swap myself. Can the GT spec engine work with my car. I think it should, but there's bound to be some kind of pitfall. Would the dealer make this swap? Would I be better served getting a standard motor and getting a custom chip for the cpu?
engine replacement...by dealer a few ???
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
the swap will work and any dealer is capable of doing it. the only question is how much you are willing to spend to have the work done. plan on around $2k for just the motor, then around another 500-1000 for misc. parts...then add to that the labor at the dealer, it adds up pretty quick.
the following come from Big Scott, hes done quite a few of the swaps...
the following come from Big Scott, hes done quite a few of the swaps...
thanks...I needed that!!
Yep that would be cost prohbitive for a dealer to do it. I was just dreaming I guess. I still want the engine though. I will scour the posts and find some inexpensive upgrades for my new engine...4.6 T-bird spec. DAMN I thought it would be easy!! JB
Yep that would be cost prohbitive for a dealer to do it. I was just dreaming I guess. I still want the engine though. I will scour the posts and find some inexpensive upgrades for my new engine...4.6 T-bird spec. DAMN I thought it would be easy!! JB
Joined
·
2,458 Posts
Flame wrench = Torch or plasma cutter
Joined
·
4,085 Posts
Cutting? What do you have to cut to fit a 99+ GT in it?
Joined
·
1,369 Posts
Ummm...that's my question...what the heck are you having to cut? It's the same basic motor. What has changed? I never recall hearing about a torch being a required tool for the swap. Excuse me for not bowing to the all knowing one, and I didn't see you say anything about cutting Seabass, so I don't know where the "we" came from. And plus, adjusting does not generally indicate cutting...more closely describes bending, which would indicate that heat might be required. Pardon me for not being humbled.
John
John
Joined
·
4,085 Posts
I'm not being arrogant, just trying to learn. You've done the swap haven't you Seabass? (isn't your car the red one with the Cobra cowl with hood pics, and a nice big vortech on it?) I'm just trying to get you to teach me.
Joined
·
2,458 Posts
Man, You guy's kill me.
This is what needs to be cut in order to install a 99+ block in a MN12. I have used a "Zizzz" wheel , Torch and a Plasma cutter to do this task. The pic below is of two motor mounts (same side) one cut (front) and the other still in it's stock form. I took this picture to help others get an idea of how much needs to be trimmed. I have a '01 Cobra block and they do not require an "adjustment" in order to install the motor mounts.
Dr. F
![]()
This is what needs to be cut in order to install a 99+ block in a MN12. I have used a "Zizzz" wheel , Torch and a Plasma cutter to do this task. The pic below is of two motor mounts (same side) one cut (front) and the other still in it's stock form. I took this picture to help others get an idea of how much needs to be trimmed. I have a '01 Cobra block and they do not require an "adjustment" in order to install the motor mounts.
Dr. F
Joined
·
6,223 Posts
Re: Man, You guy's kill me.
dr f, im having a hard time seeing the difference in the mounts, im going to be doing the swap in a few weeks, and i really really need to know what to cut off.
Dr. FrankenCougie said:This is what needs to be cut in order to install a 99+ block in a MN12. I have used a "Zizzz" wheel , Torch and a Plasma cutter to do this task. The pic below is of two motor mounts (same side) one cut (front) and the other still in it's stock form. I took this picture to help others get an idea of how much needs to be trimmed. I have a '01 Cobra block and they do not require an "adjustment" in order to install the motor mounts.
Dr. F
![]()
dr f, im having a hard time seeing the difference in the mounts, im going to be doing the swap in a few weeks, and i really really need to know what to cut off.
Joined
·
2,458 Posts
Sorry, I had a better pic but can't seem to find it. Look top & left of the nut and you will see more of the "round mount" then on the stock piece. I made more of a "U" to give room for the block casting that wont allow the bracket to sit flush on the newer style block.
The best way to handle the 99+ swap is to have a hoist and a engine stand. The 4.6 is not a good fit on a normal stand as you will soon see. I took some material off the post's of my stand's arms that insert into the Trans dowel holes on the block (make sense?) You have to swap the oil pan (and torque the bolts), sump tube, mounts, install/torque the headers/manifolds down and install the oil filter adapter. Be sure to add a little RTV on the corners where the pan, block and timing cover meet. When you have it on the stand you can fit the motor mount brackets a little at a time. You don't want to take off too much, right?
I like to mate the trans and motor while outside the car and install it as a unit. Be sure the Trans is not "bound" when you tighten the Trans to block bolts. Do this by turning the crank clockwise after you snug the bolts down. If it turns you good if not you have to re-install the trans to the motor. Doing this while under the car at 3:00am with your buddy's wife coming out asking WTF are you guys doing this late is not fun... but we got it after the 5th try. I have found that lifting the rear of the car higher then the front will allow the trans to slip in without any fuss. When you start to remove your old motor leave the AC unit hooked up and dangling on some bungy cords in the engine bay. Lifting the motor up a bit will allow you to remove the extra long AC bolts. Be sure to "load" the bolt holes on the AC unit when you go to lower the new motor in and attach it while it is still hanging. Do the same for the lovely power stearing pump you will get to know real well. On that *****, remove the "clip" that braces the high pressure line to get at the hidden bolt. Let it hang as well on a bungy out of the way. Make sure you install the starter and trans lines B4 you lower the motor down...And don't forget the plate the goes between the Trans and motor.
It's late and thats the best I can do right now...
-Dr. F
Sways and upper control arms should be on the roster as well.
![]()
The best way to handle the 99+ swap is to have a hoist and a engine stand. The 4.6 is not a good fit on a normal stand as you will soon see. I took some material off the post's of my stand's arms that insert into the Trans dowel holes on the block (make sense?) You have to swap the oil pan (and torque the bolts), sump tube, mounts, install/torque the headers/manifolds down and install the oil filter adapter. Be sure to add a little RTV on the corners where the pan, block and timing cover meet. When you have it on the stand you can fit the motor mount brackets a little at a time. You don't want to take off too much, right?
I like to mate the trans and motor while outside the car and install it as a unit. Be sure the Trans is not "bound" when you tighten the Trans to block bolts. Do this by turning the crank clockwise after you snug the bolts down. If it turns you good if not you have to re-install the trans to the motor. Doing this while under the car at 3:00am with your buddy's wife coming out asking WTF are you guys doing this late is not fun... but we got it after the 5th try. I have found that lifting the rear of the car higher then the front will allow the trans to slip in without any fuss. When you start to remove your old motor leave the AC unit hooked up and dangling on some bungy cords in the engine bay. Lifting the motor up a bit will allow you to remove the extra long AC bolts. Be sure to "load" the bolt holes on the AC unit when you go to lower the new motor in and attach it while it is still hanging. Do the same for the lovely power stearing pump you will get to know real well. On that *****, remove the "clip" that braces the high pressure line to get at the hidden bolt. Let it hang as well on a bungy out of the way. Make sure you install the starter and trans lines B4 you lower the motor down...And don't forget the plate the goes between the Trans and motor.
It's late and thats the best I can do right now...
-Dr. F
Sways and upper control arms should be on the roster as well.
Joined
·
6,223 Posts
Dr.F
would you mind if i emailed you directly if i have any questions mid-install?? thanks for the post thats going into the saved folder.
thanks
keith
would you mind if i emailed you directly if i have any questions mid-install?? thanks for the post thats going into the saved folder.
thanks
keith
engine replacemet...
Oh No!! I was just wondering if my dealer COULD replace my 4.6 with a GT 4.6. As you know they are the same block with different tuning. There is no way i could do it myself. From what I've read I think I'm just gonna get the T-Bird 4.6 and hop it up a bit with bolt ons
Oh No!! I was just wondering if my dealer COULD replace my 4.6 with a GT 4.6. As you know they are the same block with different tuning. There is no way i could do it myself. From what I've read I think I'm just gonna get the T-Bird 4.6 and hop it up a bit with bolt ons
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!