TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 95 thunderbird with full PI swap and 180* t-stat in it. The engine does not get above 1/4 on temp gauge when driving down the road in winter and blows cool air. If i let it sit for awile it warms up but when I start driving dow the road it cools back down. Cooling system works great in the summer when i was autocrossing it. It also has a new radiator and heater core to. It also did this when I had the stock motor in it but it did get warmer due to the 195 t-stat but still in the winter did not blow that hot of air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,542 Posts
Heat?

Hello

I would check the radiator fluid. If low heat is not as good as it should be.

If that is good I would look at the heater core. It may be plugged or a bad hose.

Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
694 Posts
My car has a tune w/ adjusted fan settings and 180 t-stat as well. It also does not get above the 1/4 mark on the temp gauge. Like Master486 said, it is normal for this setup.

When I used to run just the 180 t-stat and no tune, most of the time it would still stay around the 1/4 mark, unless it was summer or just hot outside.

After the car warms up and the air is warm, you will start driving and the air gets cold too? Or just the car temp?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,726 Posts
Sounds like your cooling system is working. Probably need to block off part of the radiator.

Do you have manual heater controls or SATC? If SATC do you have the lock out sender still on the coolant tube that comes from the back of the water pump?

Are you using heat or defrost, what is ambient temp?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok i do have a tune on the car but the car did the samething only just got a little bit warmer with the stock setup on it. I have the SATC and the lock out switch is removed and the wire is just grounded to the block. The ambient temp. is at about 3* out side and getting colder. I only use the floor setting so the A/C dont kick on. I was just going to try to block the radiator tomorrow but not sure what to use that would be safe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
The outside temperature should not let the engine fall below thermostat temperature. If it does the thermostat is not closing.

Typically your gauge should rise up to thermstat temp. Stay there if the car is moving. Your thermostat is now regulating.
If you stop or drive slow. Without air flow through the radiator. The temperature will rise. Up to the point of reaching the ON temp of your electric fan. This will almost pull the temp back down to thermostat temp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
That is not my most important problem I need the heater to work better. It is not going to get above -3 tomorrow. When i have the car arm up it takes about 15 to 20 mins to get it to blow hot air but when i start to drive the car the heater does not blow hot air it blows warm air. That does not let the car warm up enough so im still cold when i get to work (about 20 min drive).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Your best bet is to toss in a 195* t-stat for the winter. If my 5.0 Cougar runs too cold in the winter in South Jersey with a 180* stat I know that its too cold to run a 180* on that 4.6 in northern Illinois this time of year.
 

·
Newbie
Joined
·
5,650 Posts
That is not my most important problem I need the heater to work better. It is not going to get above -3 tomorrow. When i have the car arm up it takes about 15 to 20 mins to get it to blow hot air but when i start to drive the car the heater does not blow hot air it blows warm air. That does not let the car warm up enough so im still cold when i get to work (about 20 min drive).
Do you have semi-automatic temp controls? If so, the problem might not be the temperature of the coolant at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
yes i have the SATC in my car. I have two head units both have the same problem. I have checked the vacuum lines all of them look ok. I hve been looking for the outside blend door to see if it is stuck open but dont have anything showing me where it is. The only other thing that i could thank of is the inside air temp but i dont us the auto function, so that should not be the prolbem. I have also ran the self test on the head units and they just showed 888 for a code.
 

·
Newbie
Joined
·
5,650 Posts
The outside air door and the blend door are two different things. The blend door is behind the center of the dash and its position determines how much air is routed to the heater core. It has an electronic actuator that controls it. If it isn't working right, the blend door might not be at a good enough position to give adequate heat. The self-test passing really doesn't mean anything. It's not a very good system at identifying problems. The inside temperature sensors isn't just used for the AUTO fan position. It is used constantly as feedback on where to position the blend door to achieve the interior temperature you have set on the unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Ok my inside windows startd to fog up for the past few days and I could not keep them clean, but then last night I started to smell coolant. So I thank that the heater core is leaking again so im going to look in to getting a new one and replace it on tusday, If anyone has any good pics. of where all of the blend doors are so that I could check them all while im in there that would be great. And any tips on removing the heater core would be great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
the stock gauges blows because i have that in mine and also an autometer wit the sensor located on top of the temo housing and driving down the road wit heat on panel an floor in 12* outside the gauge is a 1/4 way up but he autometer one is sayin 180* so u cant reli on the stock gauge and my heat blows cool every oncein awhile...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
Replace your thermostat. It is weak and not closing all the way allowing water to flow through the radiator and stay cold, that is why it gets warm just sitting, no air flow across the radiator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
Ok my inside windows startd to fog up for the past few days and I could not keep them clean, but then last night I started to smell coolant. So I thank that the heater core is leaking again so im going to look in to getting a new one and replace it on tusday, If anyone has any good pics. of where all of the blend doors are so that I could check them all while im in there that would be great. And any tips on removing the heater core would be great.
You say leaking AGAIN? If you used stop leak it can cause this condition. I had to use stop leak to plug the radiator leak in my POS winter beater and ever since then the heat sucks. There is a post somewhere with detailed info on changing the heater core. I went through the pics and it looks like a pain in the arse. You have to basically remove your entire dash to get to it. People have said it's around 1000 dollars to have a shop do it for you. I will look for the thread and post it when I find it. May be in the tech articles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
ok I have a new radiator, had a new heater core(2 yrs old), a new 180* t-stat, and a full PI swap with tune. I do all of the work on my cars and i work on cars at my job. I just needed to know if any one has had problems with there heater in the winter where it only blows cool air not hot air and what fix they did. it is to damn cold out to start testing anything and now i have the dash out of the car to replace the heater core again. So if i need to replace anything else under the dash i would like to do it now when the dash is out. So if anyone has had this problem and has fixed it let me know what you fixed.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
I had the same problem, coolant not heating up so the heater would blow cold. Check your thermostat, it is cheap and easy. I could open my old 180* thermostat (the 1 I replaced) with my fingers really easy. I bought a new Stant 180* thermostat from Advance Auto and it works perfectly even in the 20* air temp that we have had here the past couple weeks.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top