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Discussion Starter #1
I gave up on doing the engine swap myself, because the tranny had to be rebuilt. My mechanic just called me and says that he modified the motor mount bracket to clear the frost plug on the new engine (Mustang GT 2000 4.6L Windsor), but that the motor mount doesn't clear. Has anyone else run into this? If so what was the solution. BTW I purchased motor mounts from MN12Performance. THe mechanic says that both the stock T-bird mount and the MN12 mount are the same. It seems that the diameter would have to be smaller to fit.

HELP!!!!:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well we were able to overcome the passenger side motor mount problem by grinding a slot in the bracket so we could move the motor mount over about 3/16". The bracket on the crossmember on the passenger side is already slotted so it should bolt up ok. Another issue was the oil fllter adapter. There is a rectangular boss at the exteme lower front drivers side (and passenger side) of the engine block that interferes with part of the adapter. We ground that "boss" off as it did nothing in terms of attaching or mounting anything. 3rd is the fact that some of the bolts that go through the timing cover and into the heads (on the drivers side), are bigger on the Mustang block. We have to make a stud for one position, and try to find a counter sunk bolt for the other. This is for the large bracket that supports the idler pulley on the drivers side and to which the coil pack and steering fluid reservoir is mounted.

The hardware that assembles the AED system is very inferior. The 4 counter sunk bolts that connect the intake manifold to the supercharger are hex heads that stripped when the mechanic tried to remove them. He had to drive a large torx bit into them to get the bolts out. Same with some of the intake manifold to head mounting bolts. Seems that they are just too soft a material.

I hope we don't run into any more surprises.
 

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Altho' my experience is with a 5.4 windsor bolck, I believe that they are almost identical, except deck height; therefore, you may have to grind a considerable amount off the brackets...Then , still have to grind a bit off the block it self in way of a freeze plug, and also a casting "Line" ....mostly on drivers side , and seems a bit scary at first, but will work ...I looked at J. Miller's site for guidance before doing mine... as for soft metal on the heads call that 'ford's pattented buttery aluminum' ....You must be ultra careful, use anti sieze, and follow fords torque specs EXACTLY...also note tightening specs on the intake and exhaust manifolds are in INCH pounds, and even then, I think you should try to stay on the low side of the spec good luck........
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My complaint of soft metal was not about the Ford heads but about the hardware that came with the Allen Engineering supercharger kit. Aluminum is inherently soft so I'm not surprised that you have to be careful about torque values. I overtightened the plugs the first time I changed them in my T-bird and stripped the threads in one of the cylinders. I had the spark plug holes heli-coiled so I wouldn't have to worry about it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I got my car back today. Sweet! My mechanic did a great job!

The chip needs to be reburnt, but it sure pulls good. Quite a bit of pinging at high RPM's WOT. THe tranny was rebuilt and "bullet proofed" by a local shop for 950.00 Cdn. (out of the car). They have a dyno and the ability to test the tranny out of the car. It really shifts nice, firm but not neck snapping unless you're really into it. :D
 
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