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Discussion Starter #1
The real question is how much is "normal?"
96 Cougar 4.6 stock ~80K miles
When turning the wheel while stopped the car vibrates especially when cold. My mechanic stated it's normal for the rack Ford used in that era. The orifice were too small and it puts strain on the pump at low RPMs. That's fine, but the vibration is annoying. It shows up other times also, like when the load changes on the engine. ie: A/C kicks on, fans go high, etc.
Do I simply need to replace my motor and tranny mounts? Or is there something else going on here? Thanks.
 

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How about a power steering fluid flush?

My engine used to bog when the cooling fan kicked in. I put up with it for a while until it started overheating last summer. Since I replaced the cooling fan and shroud assembly, RPMs still go down a little when the cooling fan turns on, but not acting like it wants to stall like before.
 

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You can see if the engine mounts are worn by lifting up the hood and with someone standing next to the car (not in front), you shift the car from D into park and give it a little gas to move forward.
a worn or blown engine mount will have it lift up on the pass side as the due to the torque of the engine before the metal "cage" of the mount catches the top piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My parents visited today and I drafted my dad to check out the engine movement. We power braked it in the street and the motor shifts on the drivers side quite a bit. Looks like I gotta replace them mounts. Are the ANCHOR mounts at Rockauto good? Also, I'm looking through the forum for some info, if ya'll can point me to some info on how to replace these I'd appreciate it.
 

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I'm having very similar symptoms. When the engine load changes (lights, AC, steering) does your rpm drop a small amount? I have basically checked everything there is to check for rough idle and I can't find anything. Fuel pressure good, coils, plugs, and wires all good, no vacuum leaks, and several other items. I don't know where else to look.

The only thing I have that might be different from your case is that if I roll both windows up or down at the same time I also get a very slight rpm drop and a significant increase in vibration. My alternator puts out the correct voltage, but I haven't checked current output yet.

I'm also concerned by the fact that the mounts on rockauto don't list left or right, even though the OEM ones do. I could only find one side OEM still being sold on ebay.
 

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From the looks of it, changing the mounts out must be an awful job. TBH I haven't read up on it, but I don't see how you can even access the bolts.

When I was in the middle of my transmission swap I thought about replacing them. But even with the transmission and exhaust out I didn't want to try and tackle them. Fortunately they seem fine still. It's almost like the engine needs to come out, or at least lifted a few inches to get to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm having very similar symptoms. When the engine load changes (lights, AC, steering) does your rpm drop a small amount? I have basically checked everything there is to check for rough idle and I can't find anything. Fuel pressure good, coils, plugs, and wires all good, no vacuum leaks, and several other items. I don't know where else to look.

The only thing I have that might be different from your case is that if I roll both windows up or down at the same time I also get a very slight rpm drop and a significant increase in vibration. My alternator puts out the correct voltage, but I haven't checked current output yet.

I'm also concerned by the fact that the mounts on rockauto don't list left or right, even though the OEM ones do. I could only find one side OEM still being sold on ebay.
From what I can tell the mounts are the same side to side. I would recommend super coupe performance for the mounts, they are solid rubber. All the ones on RockAuto are hydraulic and will wear out early. Wish I realized that when I but mine a while back.

For the engine load/ vibration issue. I found most of it was caused by a old battery. The alternator can only adapt to current changes so fast, a good battery can compensate, mine was weak, but would still start fine.

Here's how to check it out: With a voltmeter attached to + / - of the battery set to read DC volts. you should have about 12.5v. Position the voltmeter so you can see it from the drivers seat. Watch the Voltage while you start the car, it should drop no more than 1.5v; if the voltmeter drops to below 11v you have a dead cell. Once the car starts you should read about 14.4v; sometimes you need to bring the RPMs up a little to get to 14.4v.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Got my motor mounts & stuff from SCP. I have a question, these should be solid rubber motor mounts. When I shake them I hear fluid sloshing. Should there be fluid in a solid rubber mount?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Props to Bill. I emailed him as soon as I opened them, he was closed for the day, but did reply when he got in the next day. He sent me out a set that he verified had no fluid in them. I got those today, so starting tomorrow after work the motor mounts are getting replaced.
 

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yea I have the same thing. turning the steering wheel will make he engine bog and almost die out. AC doesn't work on my engine I actually disconnected it so that's not an issue. Im pretty sure its your engine ECU that controls the engine rpm when the accessories are being used. You can try increasing the idle rpm a small amount and maybe that will help
 

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yea I have the same thing. turning the steering wheel will make he engine bog and almost die out. AC doesn't work on my engine I actually disconnected it so that's not an issue. Im pretty sure its your engine ECU that controls the engine rpm when the accessories are being used. You can try increasing the idle rpm a small amount and maybe that will help

How do you increase the idle RPM ?
 

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How do you increase the idle RPM ?
Technically, you can't. Or at least not without resorting to unapproved methods.

The best you can do is clean the throttle body and butterfly valve, so there is no carbon buildup restricting airflow thru the TB at idle. That might gain you 50-100 RPM and get it back to where it should be.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I believe my case is because of the motor mounts, I will report back once they are replaced this weekend. Starting the job tonight ~3:00.
 

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It's not as bad as you think; IIRC, the forward bolt is the one that's a *****, so take it out first.

The other two are fairly accessible, way easier than the starter bolts. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Need some guidance. I've removed 6 bolts on the exhaust 4 at the manifolds and 2 on the u clamp after the resonator. How do I remove the exhaust? It seems like I need to slide it forward to undo it from the back section then slide it back to remove it from the hangers. I was pulling on it but it wasn't budging. It was late and i lost the light so i came in. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Technically, you can't. Or at least not without resorting to unapproved methods.

The best you can do is clean the throttle body and butterfly valve, so there is no carbon buildup restricting airflow thru the TB at idle. That might gain you 50-100 RPM and get it back to where it should be.

Al
I know, I was being sarcastic. :wink2: Also the IAC could be at fault.

Need some guidance. I've removed 6 bolts on the exhaust 4 at the manifolds and 2 on the u clamp after the resonator. How do I remove the exhaust? It seems like I need to slide it forward to undo it from the back section then slide it back to remove it from the hangers. I was pulling on it but it wasn't budging. It was late and i lost the light so i came in. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.
Helps to lower the transmission X-member, after you support it .. don't just unbolt it. I normally remove the back half of the exhaust first though, it might need to come out before you attempt the forward half.
 
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