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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, at 75000 miles I had my headgasket go bang.

Now I'm starting to wonder if my headgasket is starting to go again at 81000 miles.

When the headgasket blew, the headgasket and heads were both replaced, and a 195 tstat was put in (it was 180).

Now I'm wondering if it's starting to go again. I did an oil change last night and there wasn't any water in the oil, and there isn't any oil in the water....but there was never any signs of that last time when it blew. Hell, I checked the oil 2 minutes after I pulled over on the side of the road when my headgasket went totally bang and it still looked clean.

The only thing that's got me wondering if they're going again is my upper radiator hose gets pressurized (like, fully unsqueezable pressurized) before it gets warm. Like it's not all soft and squooshy and then WHOOSH it gets hot and hard...(don't even think about it...hah)

Also, if I'm in really heavy traffic, my car will get up to the R, whereas normally it stays below M, and sometimes, well below M. Once *gasp* it got to the top of the R, but I shut it off. Oh, and by the way, this is in 95 degree 100% humidity Florida heat. I let it idle for an hour or so at night and it never got above the M.

Now I do know that my coolant isn't exactly 50/50, it's probably like 30 antifreeze 70 water.

My reserve tank lost about 1 1/2" over the course of a couple weeks, and I don't see a leak. The radiator's always been full though.

Maybe I'm just paranoid?
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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sound like you should bleed the system , you may have air trapped in the system .

this works for the 4.6 not to sure about the 3.8

Try opening the reserve tank so that the air can evac ,tunr the car on
and turn your heater on high . Wait till your thermostat opens atleast twice .
refill with coolant .

See if this helps .
 

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is it possible something like the radiator is clogged up, and the hose is just backed up from that?
 

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Silver95Bird said:
is it possible something like the radiator is clogged up, and the hose is just backed up from that?



Well the water should be red from the Rust right ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cjchevez said:
sound like you should bleed the system , you may have air trapped in the system .

this works for the 4.6 not to sure about the 3.8

Try opening the reserve tank so that the air can evac ,tunr the car on
and turn your heater on high . Wait till your thermostat opens atleast twice .
refill with coolant .

See if this helps .
Alrighty, I'll try that.

But what about the bolt on top of the t-stat? Couldn't I open that?
 

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AchNgnt said:
Alrighty, I'll try that.

But what about the bolt on top of the t-stat? Couldn't I open that?

My bad , yes use the bleeder bolt.

I wasnt sure if you had a bleeder bolt . My car doesnt have one and
This is the way I learned to bleed the system .

Goodluck ..
 

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with the car on normal operating temp

well then you open let the air out ,tighten ,wait a minute ,open again let the air out then tighten

and repeat till you only have water coming out with the car on .

make sure you tighten the bleeder screw (bolt) .

thats what I did with a BMW We used to have ..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nevermind, I got it.

Rather than open a new thread, as I know (ive searched) there are like 50000 of them.

But Ive got a horrible idle. It shakes like crazy.

Ive replaced pretty much everything except the IAC and the motor/tranny mounts.

Is there a way to check either without just buying them?
 

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cjchevez said:
Well the water should be red from the Rust right ?

Umm, you're joking, right?
Coolant should be swapped every 2 years or so, long long before it ever turns a rusty color.
 

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Silver95Bird said:
Umm, you're joking, right?
Coolant should be swapped every 2 years or so, long long before it ever turns a rusty color.


sorry for the confusion im not that retarded , you said it could also be
a cloged radiator and I said well if its cloged then the water would be red from the rust .


Im no mechanic but if someone asks a question and nobody else cares im
going to jump in and advice from my own personal experiance .

Im not going to be right all of the time but Ive been there needing help and it
sucks when you need to fix a car right a way and nobody helps .

:)

Thanks
 

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You'll have to explain that one to me then. I've never heard of a clogged anything that causes coolant to suddenly become rust colored. It makes no sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yup, air was in the system. It's all good now. I drove it for about an hour yesterday evening and it stayed in the same spot the entire time.

Now I just need to buy an IAC.
 

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Why do you think you need an IAC? The idle should go to about 1200 rpm when cold and after about 20 seconds or so, it should drop smoothly down over about 5 seconds down to about, what 600 - 800 (mine is too low so I am not sure what is right). If the idle does that then you have other issues. Drop by one of the auto stores and have them run a code tester on the engine to see if any codes come up.

Go to the u-pull-it junk yard and pull about 3 of them of the same engine that look like yours. Otherwise, its not cheap. I think it's $80 and dealer only.
 

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Silver95Bird said:
You'll have to explain that one to me then. I've never heard of a clogged anything that causes coolant to suddenly become rust colored. It makes no sense.

Im no mechanic , But one reason that a radiator could get cloged is
not changing the coolant .Letting the engine eat its self from the inside out.
Small iron particles contaminates the coolant making it hard for it to flow through the radiator.This also wouild make the color redish over years due to iron in the engine block .

Not a problem if you change your coolant .

But im no mechanic thats just what I think! :eek:
 

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cjchevez,
Don't be so hard on yourself. You obviously are enough of a mechanic to know about radiators and other car parts. So lets give you the name of 'amature no mechanic'...

"Some of us no a lot, some of us no a little, but none of us no it all"

If you can keep your car out of the stealership for most of its life, you're a mechanic.

:)
 

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AchNgnt said:
Should the upper radiator hose get pressurized before the t-stat opens?
YES,
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ok lol thanks

if you rev the engine should you be able to feel anything in the upper radiator hose?

Not like it getting more compressed, but like water rushing through it faster with the RPMS?
 
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