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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Trunk Monkey asked me to post up some pics of my radiator since he's running a group buy and perhaps it will give people ideas on how to effectively mount a giant radiator. Instead of going the full custom mount for my 5.0 lemons tbird, I looked for the largest Griffin front mount radiator I could find with a) the intake/outlet ports in the right position and b) a radiator cap on top (because its a 5.0 and the cap is on the radiator vs on the overflow tank as per the 4.6L). BTW, I also have the largest oil cooler I could find on Summit mounted in front of the radiator. The hoses are all custom made by a local hydraulic shop and there's a 2qt accusump plumbed in for added security. After not getting to race in 3 races in a row, I basically threw money at the cooling system of the tbird.

The brackets aren't particularly pretty but they have proven durable for 3 weekend long races now. I think we've gotten hit at least twice and nothing has broken loose.
What I bought:
Griffin Radiator - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-26242-X
Weld-in Aluminum Bung - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220070
SPAL 1959CFM 16" Pusher fan - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPU-IX-30102048
SPAL 1227CFM 12" Puller fan - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPU-IX-30101504
SPAL mounting brackets - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPU-IX-30130010
Fluidyne zinc sacrificial anode as radiator drain plug - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLD-FHP32004
12V stock automotive relays - like this but SKIP the sockets - https://www.ebay.com/p/12pack-12v-30a-Fuse-Relay-Switch-Harness-Set-SPST-4pin-12-AWG-Hot-Wires/27017472122

Customizations & Notes
* Radiator mounting brackets are scrap metal and my wife's old yoga mat plus some duct tape and adhesive to hold the mats in place. The padding can be this or even tire material but the idea was to make sure there was some padding between the harder metal brackets (which I welded) and the softer aluminum tanks).
* Fan attachment brackets are scrap aluminum (I think they were the aluminum sticks used to hold files in place from an old filing cabinet) that I bent, cut, and drilled holes in order to mount the plastic SPAL tabs.
* I use a sacrificial anode because a) Lemons requires I run distilled water instead of coolant and b) there are a bunch of different metals in my cooling system (aluminum, iron, and even some brass for a crossover pipe). Electrolysis will likely occur so might as well kill the zinc drainplug instead of some other metal.
* Paid a pro welder to TIG the bung into the side tank of the radiator near the outlet - $20
* My fans are always on and wired to a 12V relay that sits in a box where the battery used to be. Power is tapped from the stock power junction, goes through an inline fuse, and then into the relay. A wire is run into the cabin that the driver can flick on after starting the car. NOTE: Be sure to use 12GAUGE OR LARGER wiring all the way through the wiring setup with these fans; I originally used these ebay (I originally used a sockets that came with my relays but found after a race that the 3" segment of wire that was 14ga had started to melt because of a single SPAL fan's current draw. A fire would have sucked. The solution is to skip the sockets altogether and just use female spade connectors with 12ga wire all the way from the battery through to the fan and back to ground.

Things are dirty because racecar. I was also in a rush taking these pics so they are not as good as I would have liked.
Hopefully, this will give you folks some ideas.

-g
 

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Looks good!

The zinc anode is a great idea, just our stock system sees steel and aluminum.

The biggest thing to avoid is stainless steel or nickel; they will eat everything else. :(
 
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