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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, well, it looks like I'll soon have to start looking around for an exhaust system for my 88 T-bird 5.0 SO. It has console-shift (may become relevant to this discussion). Right now I've got the stock 2 cats into a third big cat into 2 mufflers and tailpipes.

Anyway, in my ideal world, sound-wise, I wish I could freeze the decay of my exhaust system in time right now. It sounds PERFECT! A very muffled sort of contented rumble. Imagine listening to a stock 5.0 Mustang, but lower pitched, and listening through a pillow stuck to each side of your head. It's like all the sound's higher frequency resonance has been filtered out. Sorta like a sleepy giant. I wish I could describe this accurately, but anyhoo.

Now, what I need to pass inspection (not for a few months) is everything after the cats, since everything up front is still intact. However, the downside to that is that 1) I want true-duals, and 2) from inside the car, the factory system is dead-quiet, I can't hear the exhaust AT ALL.


But, I was also considering going with a bone-stock Mustang-style setup, completely, front to back. However, given the relatively low-revving, bottom-end-grunt of the SO 5.0, will the improved flow actually hurt my bottom end torque any? I'd prefer not to lose any of my under-2000 RPM torque, since my car spends almost all of its time under 2K, and the majority of that at 1500 or less. Still, on rare occasion, I do like to mash the gas down a bit (less often these days with the price of gas, though!)


Now, *if* the bone-stock Mustang system is a good match for me, do they make somewhat quieter mufflers that flow well for it?

Also, with the stock Mustang system, does everything up to and including the mufflers fit as-is? I know that I have to use extenders or otherwise longer pipes after the mufflers, due to the T-bird's increased length, but I wasn't clear on what happens up to and including the mufflers.


And finally, again *if* the bone-stock Mustang is what I'm going to go with, from a tech article at coolcats.net, there's the following:
FLOOR SHIFTER
Now with the floor shifter, there's another unique problem. The bracket that holds the kickdown cable (aka TV - throttle valve) on the transmission hangs down just enough to interfere with the H-pipe. You will need to grind down the bracket approximately 1/2" to get the H-pipe to fit right. Believe me, there is nothing more annoying than having the H-pipe squeak every time you hit a bump. For all transmissions alike, please be aware that the factory H-pipe with 4 catalytic converters comes really close to the kickdown linkage on the driver's side of the transmission. If you're not careful with clearances in this area, your kickdown cable can get stuck on the top of the converter and you'll experience some nasty shifting. This is not a safe situation. My advice to you: remove the heat shield surrounding that particular converter (the smaller one, toward the front) before you install it. That should assure you of no clearance problems in that area.
I took a look down there, and it looks like there's two places the author might be referring to, but a quick inspection seems to indicate that there isn't 1/2" worth of material to grind down!

Finally, I am wondering if the Walker replacement H-pipe might alleviate this as well, since they have only 2 cats instead of 4. Still, I don't know if Walker's diagrams are showing an elimination of the front or back converter....

From the Walker Catalog for a Mustang 5.0
1986-1988 Mustang 5.0 - All models before 5-88, except 87-88 GT
1987-1993 Mustang GT 5.0
1987-1993 Mustang LX 5.0 after 5-88

Looks like they've made a single catalyst for each side that's a combination of the two that were from the factory. Will this alleviate the kickdown bracket clearance issue?



Thanks in advance. I'm sure I've forgotten a couple of questions that I'll probably have.....
 

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With a fox-bird/cat you also have to shift the fuel tank over to make duals fit. IMO, youd be better off having the pipes bent at a shop to fit your car.
 

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Raoul Duke
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Blue LS said:
With a fox-bird/cat you also have to shift the fuel tank over to make duals fit. IMO, youd be better off having the pipes bent at a shop to fit your car.

Uhh... I've never heard of that, and I put custom dual exhaust on my two previous Fox Cougars.

King_V:
Take a look over at www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com for some more information. You can indeed put the Mustang setup on your car, but you will have to make some minor modifications. It's a good time to swap to a floor shifter. ;)
For sound, consider going with 40-Series Flowmasters.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the link . . I'll take a look-see there.

Oh, and, uh, I've already got a floor-shifter! That's why I was wondering about what was said in that paragraph I quoted. I looked under my car, and the only thing I think I noticed that might be a problem were the brackets for where the floor-shifter-cable ends. I've got to take a better look, though.

As for the rear/tank section . . well, since I already have the factory 2-into-1-into-2 setup, I don't see how anything's in the way!
 

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I think it only affects it if you go true duals, remember reading it on a fox-site once. Guy I went to college with last year had a shop tell him the same thing.
 

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Raoul Duke
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Well, the '86 and earlier had the fuel filter on the inside of the frame rail. That could block a large muffler like a 40-series Flowmaster. Other than that, you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It occurs to me . . wouldn't a totally 100% stock Mark VII exhaust system be a direct bolt-in?
 

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Fox exaust

Did a "Mac" mandrel bent 2 1/2 system on an 85 bird w/302, that was for a Mustang. It was a true dual system w/off road pipes. The original system used a "Y" pipe to a single tail pipe.

The fuel filter will have to be relocated. I put mine in the Spot the mustangs use, over the rear of the axle next to the fuel tank. Build bracket, re-route some lines etc.

Mustang sytle hangers can be used and may be still available from ford. Somewhere, I may have some part numbers-------maybe out back in the tall grass, along with some other prize possessions :) I used LX tailpipes and added turn-downs at the end to get exaust clear of the rear facia stuff. You may also have to slightly re-route the rear vent line (rubber) if it comes out from one end rather than toward the center. Dont remember exactly how the rear brake feeds went, but you may have to lengthen/re-route the main feed to the rear end. If you have disc rears (ala TC) then you may have issues I didnt have to address. The passengers side tailpipe is very close to the corner of the fuel tank as is goes over the axle. Mounting the tailpipe slightly over a bit on that side is not noticeable. You could also carefully bend the "seam" of the tank up or down a little for more clearance------carefully :)

I used SVO unequal shorties to off-roads and they fit. You will have to add a piece on each of the short tubes to account for the birds longer wheelbase. easy to do, get from local parts houses in whatever size you decide to go with. Walker may only offer the mandrel bent sets in 2 1/4 ", which is really big enough for most apps.

My opinion was, that the more stuff from a mustang you can use, the better off you are. Even if it takes a little "engineering" now, it is worth it when you need to replace. Mustang stuff damn near comes in "cracker jack" boxes, which is good for us! Anyway, LOL I may be able to remember some small details if you need it. :)

YB
 
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