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Discussion Starter #1
What's up guys?

All this time...I knew how a T-stat works, but now i'm questioning myself.....As far as I know, When you first start the car, the T-stat opens when the engine gets hot (we'll use 197 degree T-Stat) and closes once the engine cools off after you turn the car off right?

Now I hear people saying that the T-stat opens and closes as you drive....meaning as you drive if the engine temp is below 197 the t-stat will close and once it hits 197 it will open.....They say the T-stat constantly opens and closes as you drive depending on your engine temp.

I don't think Engine temp gets below 200 degrees when you drive.

Am i right, or have i been wrong all this time?

Beirutsfinest
 

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Slacks 12 months a year, TCCoAAC Member
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You Jersey boys...........

Lol.It opens and closes as you drive.If you are in traffic more then likely it will stay open but if you are cruising out on open roads it will open and close when needed.It will keep your temp within the temp of the stat unless it is bad or getting bad.
Got your part.In the mail this week.
Thanks,
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #3
PA Boy

If PA is so good then what are you doing in Florida....LOL j/k

ok, thanks for clearing that up....I'm asking cause i'm thinking Marvin M and my temp problems are (temp guage goes up to M before Fan kicks in, We replaced temp sensor, now fan engages at beginning of R) (my car used to always stay at N or below).....anyway i'm thinking maybe the T-stat is our problem...we've been chasing the fan the whole time. However, my T-stat is a year old and Marvin's is only 5 months old...i don't think it's the T-stat...what do you think? or should i be asking a Jersey Boy instead...LOL

Thanks for sending the package..I'll let you know when it gets here.

BeirutsFinest
 

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I'm not sure, but I might be having the same kind of problem...except the temp gauge never goes below the M...It stays above M, it makes the idiot light come on and off..keeps in the region the whole time I'm driving...Gonna do rad flush, and change the T-stat, hopefully that'll solve the problem, if not, maybe I'll try the temp sensor, or anything else that can cause it...maybe

Wes
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Go with

Go with the temp sensor first...this helped me and Marvin M to make our fans turn on sooner (I suggest checking your fan to see how long it takes for it to engage, if it engages at all.

BeirutsFinest
 

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Dude today on my way to work, this is what happened.

my temp engaged right when it was begginning to touch the R , (meaning not on the R yet but just a lil bit towards it) and my temp went completely to the R and then back to the Middle, atleast is not M anymore, i think we might've messed up the headgaskets since we were running warm for a long time, what do you think??????? i have no coolant in oil and i have no white smoke coming out the tail pipesss, maybe we need a 195 t-stat and not a 197, ive heard supercoupeperformance, sells the 195, like this this the fan will engage even sooner right????????

Marvin M.
 

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I don't think a couple of degrees will make much of a diff...I was going to get the 195 T-stat anyways(cause I didn't know it was 197:D )...Where could I get the temp sensor? Do they sell those at autozone, go to the dealer or order it from the internet? Just to make sure, the temp sensor is in the T-stat housing, right? Thanx for the reply

Wes
 

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yes thats the temp sensor.

now the ecc sensor is next to the temp sensor and its right infront of the trottle body sensor, so switch this one also, and i do think that a couple of degrees will make a difference b/c the fan wont be turning on at 197 but at 195, its just my opinion even though its 2 degrees i think it will work better. oh and i almost forgot, i got both my sensors at discound, they will be way cheaper than the dealer ones and they work the same, but now if you want your motorcraft ones then its your choice. Oh hold on actually my temp sensor is motorcraft but the one i just changed the ecc sensor is from discount.

Marvin M.
 

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If you guys are worried about the T-Stat just change it. It is only a few bones, this way you can remove that as a variable that is causing your problems.
Would this be a bad time to say my car never warms up? I got the opposite problem. My T-stat is staying open!

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wait Let's Go about This One At A Time...

First.... the sensor that is in the T-stat housing is not a temp sensor...It is a temp sending unit...this tells your guage what the temp of your engine is.
Next, the actual temp sensor (or EEC sensor) is the one in front of the TB...Like Marvin said, replace both...that's what I did.

Okay about the T-stat....changing to a 195 makes no difference at all on the fan....The fan is programmed to come on at a preprogrammed temperature (220 degrees) which is controlled by the EEC....Changing to a 195 t-stat will only open up your T-stat sooner. So changing to a lower temp won't help.....Marvin This will do no good......However, i do suggest we change our T-stat...This could possibly be our problem(but do not change to a lower temp), I highly suggest using a T-stat from Ford.

BeirutsFinest
 

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Just a side suggestion, but when my '95 started reading higher temps I found that flushing the radiator helped a lot. Use something similar to Prestone Super Flush or Super Radiator Cleaner and follow its directions.

You could go ahead and replace the themostat (going as low as 180 degree is pretty popular) while you're doing the coolant. Between the two, you would hopefully be set, lest the water pump or something else be a problem.

Good luck.

John
 

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That and take a hose and spray the bugs off the sides of the radiator.. after 8 years of bug pilings I did mine and made a big difference...

I stay right at the middle unless I'm running 110+
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nope

no chips, but i think we are on our way to finding the solution, by doing a combination of things (t-stat, cleanong A/C condenser..already replaced sensor)

thanks
Beirutsfinest
 

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Well you won't get the full effect of a lower t-stat without a chip as the fan will not turn on any sooner.
 

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Sort out the details

Geez, this thread is going on and on with such a "simple" topic...there is no such thing as simple with these cars.

First, let's cut to the chase about the T-stat going open/close. The T-Stat is a simple MECHANICAL DEVICE. It's opening/closing is in a direct proportional reponse to the temperature. But, it is not actuated by a bi-metal sensing device, rather it is a spring-loaded device that is responsding to the pressure build-up as the coolant heats up. the springs are rated for "temperature" as function of pressure on the system. So if go and change the reservoir cap (which has a blow-by safety valve) with one rated at a different pressure then you'll get different cooling results from the T-stat.

Next, the temperature sender/sensor is as was explained earlier. Namely, the SENDER merely attaches to the guage in the instrument cluster. You can easily define it because it has only ONE LEAD. This is merely a feel-good guazge and is NOT CALIBRATED. The "NORM" range is only that...a range of acceptable value. Get used to what your sendor is reading, and guage your performace accordingly, meaning if your running "hot" as copared to your ususal reading, then take action.

The SENSOR is the actual business end as it inputs into temperature into the EEC. The SENSOR has TWO LEADS. Both SENDOR and SENSOR plumb into the coolant stream, so the TB-position sensor is irrellevant to this discussion.

Finally, the FAN engages when the EEC tells it to: (1) temperature; (2) vehicle speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well

I have been tackling this problem along with Marvin M for a while now....and the only thing that helped was the Sensor (the one that senses temp and sends message to EEC). our temps went from M to the very beginning tip of R...However, for me this is not normal, my temp was always at N or below.

We have already done evreything possible except for changing EEC and T-stat
We have: (changed IRCM, Temp sending Unit, Fan, and Temp sensor)

so next in line is the T-stat...which i think is the cause of our problems..(although that's what i thought about the temp sensor, and i was half right) and possibly clean the A/C condenser.

Beirutsfinest
 

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Re: Well

BeirutsFinest said:
I have been tackling this problem along with Marvin M for a while now....{cut}
so next in line is the T-stat...which i think is the cause of our problems..(although that's what i thought about the temp sensor, and i was half right) and possibly clean the A/C condenser.

Beirutsfinest
Sounds like a good plan. I always suscribe to a plan that does the cheapest/simplest things forst and progree from there. Remember T-stats are really cheap, and so the "quality control" is not very high. The OEM T-Stat also has a small orifice that allows some coolant to always pass through it. Although I can speculate as to some reasons, I'm not convinced that this feature is essential.

I replace my T-stat each time that I change the coolant (I've discussed why it's important to completly change the coolant previously). Once I did have a problem maifested by my temp running higher than normal, then plunging down to its normal operating range. I attributed this freakish event to a faulty T-stat spring, and popped in a new Tstat. All else has been fine.

Another thing that can contribute to poor cooling, is the flow within the radiaotr. If you haven't been changing your coolant frequently (to replenish the buffers), then you may have flow problems in your radiator. Sometimes the "Superflush" stuff can help dissolve that buildup, but other times, you just need a new radiator.

i hope that the cheap and simple stuff works for you!
 
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