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Discussion Starter #1
I haven't bought anything for the bird since like May.... so I bought some PI cams today, I should have them next week. Should be in the car by the end of the month.

My intention is to Dyno before and after. So hopefully I can confirm JL's numbers for the PI cams by themselves as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
66dvlbrd68 said:
Brand new cams from Ford? Used from Corral.net/e-BAY/ (insert website here) ?

Price?
Corral.net
$154
They have 5k on them.

Figured it wasn't too shabby of a deal since they are damn near new.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Will I need any special tools to complete the job?

I already have a torque wrench and ATV gasket maker.

I figured if I can rip apart my tranny, the cam swap should be a cake walk. I think my brother wants to help me, and he just finished putting a turbo/intercooler on his car. So yeah not worried about not knowing what I'm doing.

Plus I have the Ford CD.

I'll probably buy the new gaskets for the sake of it, but I only have 63k on the engine, so I doubt anything needs replacing.

-Chris
 

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chris if you want te gaskets i have the ones you need (valve cover gaskets and front cover gaskets). i had bought pi cams and the gaskets earlier this month to do the cam swap but the cams i got ended up being damaged so i got my money back and i've decided to wait until the spring to do the swap. I paind about $50 for the 5 gaskets, i'll give them to you for $35 shipped. Let me know if you want them.

Frank
 

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you will need a inch pound torque wrench. I strongly recomend you use blue locktite on the bolts that hold the camshafts down. I found 2 loose after 5 k miles that I ran my pi camshafts. Get a new harmonic ballancer bolt because it is torque to yield and should not be reused. I would also upgrade to the new 1 peice crank sprocket. Did you get the camshaft sprocket bolts? They are diffrent than the ones that you currently have.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
blown96bird said:
you will need a inch pound torque wrench. I strongly recomend you use blue locktite on the bolts that hold the camshafts down. I found 2 loose after 5 k miles that I ran my pi camshafts. Get a new harmonic ballancer bolt because it is torque to yield and should not be reused. I would also upgrade to the new 1 peice crank sprocket. Did you get the camshaft sprocket bolts? They are diffrent than the ones that you currently have.
inch lb or ft lb?? i have a ft lb

When I put on my U/D pulleys, they never said anything about replacing the bolt. Can I just order one from Ford?

I have the PI cams with the pressed on gears...

JL never mentioned anything of this... :(
 

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chrisnack said:


inch lb or ft lb?? i have a ft lb

When I put on my U/D pulleys, they never said anything about replacing the bolt. Can I just order one from Ford?

I have the PI cams with the pressed on gears...

JL never mentioned anything of this... :(
I re-used that boilt...more than 3 times now and no issues.That comes from folks that wanna torque everything to some spec when there really is no need to.Example...ford has a torque spec on the faterners for the dash-to-body bolts,and the screws that hold down the instrument cluster..you gonna get out a torque wrench for that?I'm damned sure not.Same for the cam cap bolts-using a torque wrench(esp a cheapie clicker) is a guaranteed way to snap off a cam cap bolt,or strip the threads.Use some red locktite,and snug them all up evenly.You can get a new crank bolt from ford if it makes you feel better..they're cheap enough.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Johnny Langton said:

I re-used that boilt...more than 3 times now and no issues.That comes from folks that wanna torque everything to some spec when there really is no need to.Example...ford has a torque spec on the faterners for the dash-to-body bolts,and the screws that hold down the instrument cluster..you gonna get out a torque wrench for that?I'm damned sure not.Same for the cam cap bolts-using a torque wrench(esp a cheapie clicker) is a guaranteed way to snap off a cam cap bolt,or strip the threads.Use some red locktite,and snug them all up evenly.You can get a new crank bolt from ford if it makes you feel better..they're cheap enough.
JL
Ok good to know. As always thanks for the input. I'm gonna dyno before and after, so we'll see if I get 13 hp from the cams like you did or not.
 

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JL is right its easy to do with even a regular rachet or wrench,JL,so i should replace my crank bolt too?what other bolts should i replace if im rebuilding my project thanks for the info JL take care

tom
 

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If I was building a new engine,I'd replace the following:
Head bolts since they are TTY(I'd get ARP studs-they're re-useable) ,and the new crank bolt,and a set of cam tensioners.But if you're just swapping in a set of cams...
get the crank bolt if you'd like-but it's not really needed.
JL
 

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JL i heard that main cap bolts arent reusable,is this correct?i mean the crank is still STD.(dont know if it matters) and yes i am rebuilding my new engine,just a reliability issue to me,i dont plan on taking the motor out unless i spin a rod,or have some other improtant internals failures,its a 99 motor might be going with pnp PI heads,dont know yet all depends on how much money i have before dyno day in san diego,if not just PIs, im not about to let my car sit parked for another year,thanks JL

tom Bogle
 

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281_tuner said:
JL i heard that main cap bolts arent reusable,is this correct?i mean the crank is still STD.(dont know if it matters) and yes i am rebuilding my new engine,just a reliability issue to me,i dont plan on taking the motor out unless i spin a rod,or have some other improtant internals failures,its a 99 motor might be going with pnp PI heads,dont know yet all depends on how much money i have before dyno day in san diego,if not just PIs, im not about to let my car sit parked for another year,thanks JL

tom Bogle
According to the Ford service DVD,none of the main cap bolts are TTY.They show the sequence as being tightened like a TTY,but there are no notations for replacing them like there is for the rod bolts.All of the connecting rod bolts are all TTY,and will need to be replaced if you take them apart.I'd buy new main cap bolts though(they're cheap)...just because the bottom end of the engine is not easy to get back into if you have a problem in one of these cars.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Will I need any special tools for this swap?

It seems relatively simple, but i don't want to accidentaly overlook something, have the car ripped apart and go "oh crap" :)

Will I have to remove the valve springs at all? I would assume that requires a special tool.

Thanks,
Chris
 

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No "special" tools needed at all.You'll need a damper puller,and just basic assorted hand tools-but that's it.The valve springs stay put-no reason to remove and of them-and yes,that does require a special tool to do in-car.
JL
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, Thanks. Does the valve timing have to be adjusted at all? Or is it pretty much just swapping the cams and calling it a day?

-Chris
 

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You have to set the timing because the timing chains are connected to the cam sprockets. If you haven't seen it already, there is a great artilce over on www.Modulardepot.com. It's very helpful.

Preston
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I printed that article off. Just in case. Even the timing doesn't seem that bad...

Try to line things up... crank the engine over by hand... make sure nothing hits... good to go... (simple version) :)
 
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