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Discussion Starter #1
So after years on the back burner I am finally getting to do my PI swap. I thought I'd share a bit because I did a few things different from standard. I managed to find a good deal on a low milage 2000 Mustang 4.6. Since I didn't want to change the front cover I did a little research and found that the A/C mounts in the same place on both cars so the only point of interference for the 94 Cougar & Mustang was the PS coil pack bracket which I solved by using an early Crown Vic bracket & trimming a corner off . I could've modified the Cougar one but tbis was easier. So now I can just use the mustang belt. The rest is pretty straight forward. Swapped the oil pan, and raided a 97 tbird for the fuel rails, intake, cruise control setup, etc. It will go in with JBA shorties, new in box MN12 Performance mid pipe (Yes that's how long it's been lol), and Dynomax cat back. Oh and a Marauder converter. Trans already had the Jmod and I'll tune it myself with Deltaforce Tuning Software & chip (I tune Fox bodies as a side hobby business).

On a side note I switched over to the Mustang alternator that came with the engine and will swap the connector. Did this because it was easier. Would have had to make an upper bracket. I ended up making one anyway because it's impossible to find a bracket for the old recalled all plastic intake but that's an easy bracket to fab. Eventually I'll need to change that intake though.

I've attached some pics.
 

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I have been under the impression that there was AC line interference with the one bolt tensioner timing covers where the lines come off the compressor and interfere with the serpentine belt between the compressor clutch and idler. If that's the case, this engine being a 2000 Windsor motor means your stock 94 timing cover bolt holes will all line up, so other than having a Mustang part there's no real benefit.

The plastic crossover intake I'd change to a newer OEM PI intake with the aluminum crossover before you put fluids in IMO, the current one is a ticking time bomb.
 

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The plastic crossover intake I'd change to a newer OEM PI intake with the aluminum crossover before you put fluids in IMO, the current one is a ticking time bomb.
This is really important, especially if you want to beat on it.

If nothing else, remove the rear mount that connects the intake to the alternator; it is what breaks the intake.

I broke a stock one during a 5k shift into third; you could see how it twisted. :)

I haven't broken the bolts yet, but I also swapped out the alt pulley with a CV 'overrunning' type one.

The metal crossover seems to tolerate the bracket just fine.
 

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Grog6 said:
I haven't broken the bolts yet, but I also swapped out the alt pulley with a CV 'overrunning' type one.
How much work was involved to do get that going? Are you able to use just the pulley off of a CVPI alternator?
 

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Those headers are Sexy shiny!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I have been under the impression that there was AC line interference with the one bolt tensioner timing covers where the lines come off the compressor and interfere with the serpentine belt between the compressor clutch and idler. If that's the case, this engine being a 2000 Windsor motor means your stock 94 timing cover bolt holes will all line up, so other than having a Mustang part there's no real benefit.

The plastic crossover intake I'd change to a newer OEM PI intake with the aluminum crossover before you put fluids in IMO, the current one is a ticking time bomb.
Thanks, I am aware of that interference. I looked at it closely before I pulled the old engine and It looked to me that slightly tweaking the A/C lines would gain enough clearance. I remember seeing someone else posting here a while back that was able to do that.

If someone knows otherwise please let me know. Better to find out now than after the engine is dropped into the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is really important, especially if you want to beat on it.

If nothing else, remove the rear mount that connects the intake to the alternator; it is what breaks the intake.

I broke a stock one during a 5k shift into third; you could see how it twisted. :)

I haven't broken the bolts yet, but I also swapped out the alt pulley with a CV 'overrunning' type one.

The metal crossover seems to tolerate the bracket just fine.
Yeah, I had one blow on the dyno. I thought I blew the guy's engine up at first. Scared the hell out of me lol. I didn't realize it was the alternator bracket. It looked like it was the mold parting seam on the one I had blow. If yours blew at 5K than this being a GT 4.6 with marauder converter I'll be shifting closer to 6000 rpm. Even more stress. That's a bummer after I put all that time into making that upper bracket :frown2: At least I have the correct bracket for the aluminum crossover :|

What is the CV overrunning pulley? Not familiar with that. I was just going to use the mustang alternator & pulley that came with the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How much work was involved to do get that going? Are you able to use just the pulley off of a CVPI alternator?
Really not all that much. Just took some thought, research & planning. This forum was a big help of course. It's all a matter of dealing with the few differences between the Mustang & Cougar engine. The hardest part was finding a good V8 MN12 to pull all the intake, fuel lines & linkages from. The cruise control linkage is a pia to get out. I thought about grabbing the egr tube but trying to get that off the exhaust manifold in a junkyard didn't appeal to me. Easier to just weld an extension into my pipe, or I think I may have found some cheap high temp hose of the correct ID (we'll see).

As far as the CV alternator pulley, since everything, including the alternator, is off a mustang I don't know why I would need to use a different pulley. I could see if I used my original 94 alternator. Hadn't heard about changing to the CV pulley until Grog6 mentioned it above. Need to figure that out now.
 

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The crown vic pulley he is talking about is only on the police cars. It is basically a one-way clutch built into the pulley, so when you tach it out and shift, the momentum of the alternator that is still spun up doesn't transmit to the belt. It is almost like the rear gear on a BMX bike, how you can pedal forwards to move the bike, but if you pedal backwards it doesn't do anything.
 

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Sorry; I missed this. I got a pulley on a CVPI 200 mitsu alternator I got for cheap, cause it don't work easily.

Since I'm working on code to make the electric steering pump work, I will get this freaking alt to work, lol.

It fits, whatever it is. It holds one way, freewheels the other. It's $65 from ford, last I checked, so it's a JY part.

But it will keep from breaking a stock plastic intake. Or taking the bolts out of the top brace.

Watch the serp belt during a 5k rpm shift, you'll see what mean. :) It humps over the pulley on hard shifts, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks. Will need to find one of those. Anyone have a Ford part # and or years & models to look for? Just 2001+ or Police only? If it really is just police CV's then probably hard to find in a junk yard.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Actually probably easier to just get the revised intake.
 
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