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Discussion Starter #1
96 bird...4.6L 137K miles, auto

The check engine light comes on once and a while, and then goes out. Here lately is has been on pretty steady. Well...today it started to flash. It will just start flashing and then flash for about 2-3 mins and then go back to solid.

I was gonna stop by autozone and have the codes read...but I thought I would ask here first.

Runs like crap...seems to be missing. Most noticable when under a small load...like right before it would need to down shift. It will start kinda bucking, and then downshift and be fine. It has just now started to idle a little rough at idle...but only at times.

thanks for any suggestions.
 

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does the miss go away with revs? sounds like a plug could be fouling out

i had one or more plugs go out on me, ran like complete crap, and the CEL flashed till i got her home and swaped out the plugs, id go buy new plugs for her, i dont think a maf would cuase a flashing CEL unless it isnt working at all, but it cant hurt to check
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok...changed the plugs and it seemed better. the light went out...a few days later it was back to running like crap but the light stayed off. Engine light is back on now, and it was flashing again yesterday.

I used autolight plugs....I read today that someone suggest only using motorcraft....and truth to that?


Any other suggestions on why the beast is runnin like crap?

thanks!
 

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As you said... Drive it to the nearest AutoZone and have them scan it for free! :D

IMHO, without knowing what the code is, there's no point in replacing parts. :thumbsup:
 

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jeepman said:
ok...changed the plugs and it seemed better. the light went out...a few days later it was back to running like crap but the light stayed off. Engine light is back on now, and it was flashing again yesterday.

I used autolight plugs....I read today that someone suggest only using motorcraft....and truth to that?


Any other suggestions on why the beast is runnin like crap?

thanks!
it wont cuase a CEL to go off but yeah motorcraft ones are made with a little more persion like the tolerences are better or something autolite makes them but there higher quality

problems could be....but then again may not be... coilpacks, wires

bottom line...
GET THE CODES READ GUESSING WONt HELP YOU

once you have the codes read, you know, go from there based on what it is...otherwise you may find yourself replacing uneeded things
 

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I found the following in the 1994 PC/ED manual:

"If the MIL blinks, there is a severe misfire or an intermittent in the MIL circuit."

Get a code reading performed!
 

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IronChopz said:
I found the following in the 1994 PC/ED manual:

"If the MIL blinks, there is a severe misfire or an intermittent in the MIL circuit."

Get a code reading performed!
Yeah, if you hadn't mentioned it, I was going to say...A flashing MIL is very, very bad. I wouldn't even drive it if it's missing that badly. It's probably not doing your cats any good.
 

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mylittleblackbird said:
try making sure all of your wires are on the right plugs? who knows?
...not to be mean, but like i was saying before, codes 1st, action 2nd

symptom system component cuase...


then of coarse the actaully repair, get er done peoples
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok...got the codes.

Here is what we got...

p0303 and p0430

And as far as it being a severe misfire....it only runs rough for a second or two, and the flashling check engine light has only come on twice, and both times I was crusing down the highway at 65ish, and it was running fine.

Plugs were just changed the other day, and the wires only have about 15K miles on them. I checked all the connections, and all looks well.

The times I notice it running the worst are lots of short driving...like downtown, stop and go. Also....it has this funny almost like a bucking, when going up a slight incline right before it needs to downshift. Once it down shifts or RPM's increase, it goes away.

Thanks for any suggestions....
 

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Here's a quick copy and paste from the 96 Service CD.

This is for DTC 303

HD1 CHECK POSSIBLE CAUSES TO MISFIRE


Misfire Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs):

P0301 - Cyl #1, Inj Test Pin 75

P0302 - Cyl #2, Inj Test Pin 101

P0303 - Cyl #3, Inj Test Pin 74

P0304 - Cyl #4, Inj Test Pin 100

P0305 - Cyl #5, Inj Test Pin 73

P0306 - Cyl #6, Inj Test Pin 99

P0307 - Cyl #7, Inj Test Pin 72

P0308 - Cyl #8, Inj Test Pin 98

P0300 - multiple cylinders misfiring, or cannot identify cylinder due to Camshaft Position sensor failure.

Possible causes:

-- Ignition System.

-- Fuel Injectors.

-- Fuel Pressure.

-- Evaporative System.

-- Canister Purge.

-- Base Engine.

-- Running out of fuel.

NOTE:
Running out of fuel may turn on the MIL and possibly store a Continuous Misfire DTC.

l Has the vehicle recently run out of fuel?

Yes
OBD II system OK. COMPLETE PCM RESET to clear DTCs (REFER to Section 2A, «Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reset»). RETURN vehicle to customer.

No
GO to «HD2».

HD2 CHECK FOR OTHER CONTINUOUS MEMORY DTCS


NOTE:
Check for other Continuous Memory DTCs which could cause the misfire DTC.

Possible causes:

-- Camshaft Position Sensor (CID).

-- Octane Adjust (Oct Adj).

-- Ignition Coil Primary Circuit.

-- Knock Sensor (KS).

l Are there any other Continuous Memory DTCs present?

Yes
ADDRESS the next Continuous Memory DTC. DISREGARD Misfire DTC at this time. GO to Section 5A for «Powertrain DTC Charts».

No
GO to «HD3».
_______________________________________________________________

This is for DTC430


Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) P0420 and P0421 indicate that bank 1 catalyst system efficiency is below the acceptable threshold.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) P0430 and P0431 indicate that bank 2 catalyst system efficiency is below the acceptable threshold.

NOTE 1: Complete the spark timing check in «Quick Test» before proceeding with this test step. Spark timing retarded below specification may increase exhaust gas temperature and decrease catalyst efficiency over time.

NOTE 2: Be sure customer has not:

(1) Refueled vehicle with leaded gasoline.

(2) Experienced high vehicle oil consumption.

NOTE 3: If entering this Pinpoint Test for symptoms only, go immediately to «HF5».

NOTE 4: Internal deterioration of a catalytic converter is usually caused by abnormal engine operation upstream of the catalyst. Events that may produce higher than normal temperatures in the catalyst are particularly suspect. For example, misfiring can cause higher than normal catalyst operating temperatures.

Possible causes:

-- Use of leaded fuel.

-- Oil contamination.

-- Cylinder misfiring.

-- Damaged HO2S.

-- Damaged ECT sensor.

-- Downstream HO2S wires improperly connected.

-- Fuel pressure too high.

-- Damaged exhaust system pipe.

-- Damaged exhaust manifold.

-- Damaged muffler/tail-pipe assembly.

-- Damaged catalytic converter.

l Key on, engine off.

l Retrieve and record all Continuous Memory DTCs (MIL and non-MIL).

l Were any of the following misfire monitor DTCs recorded: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 and P0308?

Yes
GO to Section 5A, «Powertrain Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Charts», to address the misfire monitor DTCs.

No
GO to «HF2».
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yeah...ran it out of gas a few months ago. Seemed to run like crap before that though.

One thing I will add again...after I changed the plugs the check engine light went out for awhile, and it seemed to run better. However, it still had the bucking issue. Is it possible that something it taking out the plugs?

thanks.
 

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Here's what I would do if it were me;

1. CLEAN THE MAF SENSOR

Use an aerosol spray can of electrical contact cleaner.

Do a search on how to clean it. You will need a T20 tamper-proof torx bit driver, sold individually at AutoZone or Advanced Auto


2. AFTER cleaning the MAF sensor, reset the computer by opening the driver's side engine compartment fuse box. Pull fuse #15. Try to start the car (it won't).
Put fuse back in. All codes cleared, and computer re-set.

3. Drive car and see if roughness is gone, or if CEL comes back on over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Rolling-Thunder said:
Here's what I would do if it were me;

1. CLEAN THE MAF SENSOR

Use an aerosol spray can of electrical contact cleaner.

Do a search on how to clean it. You will need a T20 tamper-proof torx bit driver, sold individually at AutoZone or Advanced Auto


2. AFTER cleaning the MAF sensor, reset the computer by opening the driver's side engine compartment fuse box. Pull fuse #15. Try to start the car (it won't).
Put fuse back in. All codes cleared, and computer re-set.

3. Drive car and see if roughness is gone, or if CEL comes back on over time.
I've cleaned that thing a 100 times, and done the computer reset. Doesn't seem to help.
 

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i would try a coil for that bank of cylinders , my parents crown had the same issue.
 

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jeepman said:
I've cleaned that thing a 100 times, and done the computer reset. Doesn't seem to help.
OK, that's the first time you have mentioned that.

Next thing to do would be to rule out the other items listed in the DTC Troubleshooting info. I posted.

Maybe try the Camshaft Position sensor. Could be a dirty connector on it.

Also, have you inspected spark plug from cyl. #3?

Maybe the injector is dirty (doubtful, but possible)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ok...thanks. I'll try the sensor, and then if that doesn't do anything I'll go with a coil.

Can I get the sensor at Autozone?

thanks.
 
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