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Pedal Faster
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Discussion Starter #1
For some reason I have it in my head that you shouldn't run AC flush solution through an orifice tube. Is that right, or can I flush the liquid line + O-tube? What's the max air pressure that someone should send through the hose?
 

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For some reason I have it in my head that you shouldn't run AC flush solution through an orifice tube. Is that right, or can I flush the liquid line + O-tube? What's the max air pressure that someone should send through the hose?
Since if you run one way, you'll plug the orifice tube, and the other way, you run the risk still of destroying the rubber in the tube ...

I bought a new line w/tube off eBay for $25 delivered, but even so, you can buy a new line for around $20 plus shipping from RockAuto ... I'd just swap that line.

(Note: Pricing for a Four Seasons unit for a 1991 Cougar. YMMV.)

RwP
 

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^^This is the way to do it. You could also buy an inline orifice tube kit, cut the old one out, and install the new one. AC Delco even makes a universal inline filter that you can change orifice sizes on. This would be very handy for someone doing something custom.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Agreed. I would just replace the entire line rather than use one of the "cut and splice" kits - more connections just means more places to chance leaking.
 

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For some reason I have it in my head that you shouldn't run AC flush solution through an orifice tube. Is that right, or can I flush the liquid line + O-tube? What's the max air pressure that someone should send through the hose?
Out of curiosity, you doing an R134 retrofit and flushing to remove the mineral oil and residue from the line?
 

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^^This is the way to do it. You could also buy an inline orifice tube kit, cut the old one out, and install the new one. AC Delco even makes a universal inline filter that you can change orifice sizes on. This would be very handy for someone doing something custom.
Yah, I priced those.

They cost as much if not more than the new tube/hose does! :eek::eek:

So, I just replaced the whole thing.

Compressor died a "black death" and I'm having to flush the system. I'm taking this as time to replace the accumulator (AGAIN!) on Ruby Jean.

Be glad to get A/C again - it's 98 in the shade, and Ruby's interior is black as a sysadmin's heart. :diablo:

RwP
 

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Pedal Faster
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Discussion Starter #8
No, flushing because the system has been open for some time (had the foresight to cap off the compressor's ports.) Already planned to replace the accumulator, just thought I'd ask about the liquid line. The liquid line wasn't very old when the motor was pulled from the car and the AC performance was excellent at that time. But the price is low enough, I'll just get another one.
 

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No, flushing because the system has been open for some time (had the foresight to cap off the compressor's ports.) Already planned to replace the accumulator, just thought I'd ask about the liquid line. The liquid line wasn't very old when the motor was pulled from the car and the AC performance was excellent at that time. But the price is low enough, I'll just get another one.
Was it already converted to 134a? If it was and you cut the liquid line open and there is no junk. You should be good to go.

Accumulator/dryer and liquid line. If you punch a hole in the dryer and measure the oil that drains out put that much back in the system.

Use nylok on the joints for lube. Good stuff.

Evac and recharge.

Should fire right back up for you then.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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+1 for Nylog, get the blue for 134a (HFC).
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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I like to be subtle. :)
 
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