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Hey all,


I know some parts like starters, and other parts, its better to use the ford OEM parts, and some parts don't matter.

I am going to replace my water pump, is this one of the parts that i should use ford OEM, or are the aftermarket brand's just as good?

Five Star Ford sells this part for $70, i can get an aftermarket brand that is new (not recondition) for $40-60 depending on aftermarket brand.

Also does anyone know what all is involved in changing the water pump? Easy, hard, not worth doing myself?

Thanks

Chad C.
 

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I just bought an ASC new water pump from Autozone (the only one they stock for a 4.6) for $42 plus tax to put on my cougar engine that I am rebuilding. The unit looks and feels like a quality piece, although I don't have any direct experience with them other than what I've said.
 

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on the 4.6 the hardest part is removing the belt. The modular block is like the old Chrysler style. The WP sits in its own cavity and all hoses enter the block directly. Just remove the pulley, remove the pump (clean out all old gasket crap) put in new WP with gasket and pulley and tighten all the bolts, slap on the belt. easy-peasy:D

:ztoohot: Now the 3.8 SC... that is a project

:eek: oh yeah, drain your coolant first:eek:
 

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First off - break loose the pulley bolts. You have to kinda 'suprise' them. The pulley will turn some, then the everything will tighten up...then just bust 'em loose. Dont take them all the way out, just get them loose. 1/2 drive breaker bar will work to move the tensioner to get the belt off.
I found a 3 inch extension works well for getting at all 4 bolts. And uhh...the pulley is the tricky part of all this. Once you have the pulley off...should only take about 20 minutes to have the new one on. And the bulk of the 20 minutes should be cleaning out old O-ring. And since you have the system drained, put a new thermostat on..and a new O-ring. Doesnt hurt to do both at once....

and remember, drain the system...and when you get the water pump out...it'll make a mess all over the floor. If you have to use a hammer....hit it like a man...you wont break anything. Took me 2 swings and mine was out.

PS: I used all motorcraft parts...my cost less coolant was right at $85. (Water pump, thermostat, and an O-ring sold separately from the thermostat.)
 

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My water pump went out at 122,XXX miles. Replaced it with the cheapest i could get at autozone for 35 bucks! I was on a low budget then. :( It took me maybe 30 mins to replace it and my gramps said it looked like one of the easiest water pumps to replace. It helps having that electronic fan without that big guard! I wouldnt pay anyone to do it. I bet someone that doesnt work on cars, tell them where it goes and explain how to take it off and they can get it replaced! I think the hardest part was to pull the pump out itself. I pryed it out. :rolleyes: I think there was a place on the old pump to get a pry bar in there.
 

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I just replaced mine at 188,000 miles. It was the factory original, and was still working OK. Just decide it was time to change it. Put in a Motorcraft unit. (new)

Here's some tips from my experience.

1. Remove the radiator/fan assembly, and using a garden hose, spray water thru the fins from the engine side of the radiator to the front.

2. I tried to pry mine off, using a pry bar against the two tabs sticking up on the waterpump, but they broke off. Instead, I hit the top side of the waterpump, in-between the pulley and back end of the water pump, until it started to break loose.

3. Wet the new waterpump o-ring with fresh anti-freeze, before installing.

4. Remove the T-stat housing and T-stat, so that you can bleed out the air when re-filling the cooling system.

Everything that was posted about the waterpump pulley bolts - ditto here

All in all, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.
 
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