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Previously posted by XR7Dave on SCCOA....

So its winter and you are bored. What to do to the SC?

This is in answer to a post in one of the other forums asking what to do if you need to replace blockers in your 5spd and are looking for other things to do while you are in there. Since the post got a little long winded, I decided to create a new thread for it. Some of the below recommendations are specific to a 93 5spd car and intended for the person who can do things themselves. If you took your car to anyone else to have these things looked at and replaced as necessary the bill would be about $4500. Not kidding.

When under the car, things to look at:

Fuel pump: Upgrade to match the ultimate mod level you plan to achieve.
Of course replace the filter and inspect all lines for rubbing, particularly close to the fuel tank, and look for crushed lines where they are metal, particulary up front where incorrect jacking crushes the lines. Fuel delivery is a big problem with these cars and so you just want to make sure you don't have any problems in that area.

Mounts: Engine mounts are always bad, tranny mounts rarely. Front diff mounts are almost always bad.

U-joints: Check for play or roughness. Usually they dont' give problems but they can.

Rear end: if leaking, replace seals, rebuild track lock and change fluid. Your track lock WILL be bad. Check wheel bearings. If they are original it might do well to replace them. The do go bad and sometimes take other parts with them. Check upper control arm bushings for wear. Make sure slider pins on rear brakes move smoothly. They are notorious for seizing up.

Transmission: Replace seals, 1-4 blockers and inspect 5&R (replace as necessary). Inspect trans bearings (usually fine) and definitely shim input shaft! It will be very loose. Rebuild or replace shifter with B&M unit. Check pedal in car for worn master cylinder bushing.

Clutch: Before dissassembling, thoroughly bleed and flush clutch system. Old fluid is likely full of moisture and completely black and disgusting. You don't want to flush that into your new slave cylinder. Inspect friction surfaces, if they look normal, then replace disc ($60 at AZ). Replace slave cylinder and TO bearing. Do not turn flywheel unless absolutely necessary. It is not usually necessary to replace PP unless you just want to.

Exhaust: Honestly, the 93 exhaust is one of the worst. It is 2.0-2.25-2.0, it has 3 cats, and just plain sucks. It is best to just throw the whole thing away. The 89-91 exhaust had only 2 cats, was 2.0-2.5-2.25 so even with the extra pipe around the tank it was a lot less restrictive. An 89-90 exhaust with a new resonator actually does pretty well. Personally I'd get new 2.25" downpipes with the highflow cats mounted back just in front of the crossmember. Moving them away from the motor results in them taking longer to get up to operating temperature but it will greatly reduce restriction.
Then I'd put a 14" magnaflow resonator in and get something like a flowmaster or dynomax cat back.

Tune up: Take car to carwash and thoroughly clean engine if you haven't already. Wires (motorcraft are best), plugs gapped .050 (autolite APP 764 unless you prefer to pay $75 for plugs then Denso IT20), motorcraft only PCV valve, air filter (clean if reusable type), clean MAF wires, you'll have to take the electronics off to do this, O2 sensors, check for stored codes and address any that exist. Make sure codes are cleared following tuneup.

Belts and accessories: replace belts and check tensioners for excessive noise or roughness. Check the SC nose for play and leakage. A 93 should have a spring loaded coupler. If the seal is leaking, it is pretty easy to change (under $15). If you take the pulley off, replace it with an aluminum 5%. Suck the fluid out of the supercharger and replace with new fluid. While belts are off, check water pump for play. If the pulley has any play in it, think seriously about changing it. Water pumps tend to go bad after 100K miles. If you do change the waterpump, change the thermostat also for a 180 deg unit and check hoses for decay. I'd replace them if they look original. I don't recommend power flushing the cooling system. You may want to have the old antifreeze analyzed for oil/exhaust gases. The only thing worse than having to replace headgaskets is having to replace them unexpectedly.

Power Steering: Flush system thoroughly. Check FAQ for procedure on how to do this. Often times return line leaks badly. Good time to replace (autoparts store, $6). Get new 3/8" fuel injection clamps for this, do not use standard clamps.

Front suspension: inspect all ball joints and replace any with torn boots or perceptable play. Check sway bar end links. These are the source of 90% of front end rattle/noise. Check/grease tie rod ends. Most likely rear lower strut rod bushings are shot. Plan on replacing those. Inspect all springs. Often they will be broken on the bottoms. Look for leakage from any shocks. Remove ARC actuators and spray a good amount of WD40 into the adjusters on the shocks. Sometimes they get moisture in them and then start sticking. Prevention is a good thing.

That should keep you busy for awhile.
 

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JStudrawa said:
Rear end: if leaking, replace seals, rebuild track lock and change fluid. Your track lock WILL be bad. Check wheel bearings. If they are original it might do well to replace them. The do go bad and sometimes take other parts with them. Check upper control arm bushings for wear. Make sure slider pins on rear brakes move smoothly. They are notorious for seizing up.

Unforuantely, I need to replace the gasket in Casper! She has been leaking little by little for about a month now.

-Kornhaus
 
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