Front Bushing Picture Thread with part numbers
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Comparison of B (front) on left side of pic and A (rear) on right side of pic.
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When compressed, they squeeze from 2 3/16" down to 2" even.
Don't let the diameters fool you. It's just a little extra rubber lip that makes the A bushing seem larger. In reality they seem to be identical in shape and size.
When compressed, they squeeze from 2 3/16" down to 2" even.
Don't let the diameters fool you. It's just a little extra rubber lip that makes the A bushing seem larger. In reality they seem to be identical in shape and size.
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7,758 Posts
Ferrule length would be great to be added to this!!
My LSC had an old style bushings which are shorter than those shown. I just got the new bushings and not the new ferrules. I fabricated some ferrules, but didn't know how much of a preload was needed (i.e. the ferrule length).
My LSC had an old style bushings which are shorter than those shown. I just got the new bushings and not the new ferrules. I fabricated some ferrules, but didn't know how much of a preload was needed (i.e. the ferrule length).
These are the bushings for the Strut Rod.
Only Ford makes them like this.
The 2 smaller ones, 140A and 140b, are not solid rubber. They are made of 2 metal pieces bonded together by rubber. When you tighten them they will squeeze together 3/16" against the arm, then the center sleeves will touch and then you torque it to 80-100lbs. I compressed them in a vise and they measured 2" exactly.
I'll post pics of my old ones once I swap them out. Mine have separated into the individual pieces.
Part 271A also has a metal piece bonded to it.
Part 225AA is the only all rubber piece.
Most aftermarket bushings (Moog in below pic) are made from solid thermoplastic and slip over an included sleeve. They have a reputation for cracking after a few months. At least on the big end. So everyone is warned to stay away from those.
TRW makes rubber bushings, but no one had them in stock around me so I don't know how close they are to the Ford design.
I've seen another brand made of rubber, but they were very simple in construction compared to the Ford design. That raised a red flag to me right away.
The Moog and Masterpro brands from Orielly, the Rare Parts brand from Advanced Auto and the Duralast bushings from Autozone are all blue plastic and look just like this when new.
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All junk to be avoided.
Here are the Drive Works rubber bushings. Assuming these pictures are correct, they appear to be cut from a solid piece of rubber, unlike the Ford 2 metal pieces bonded togther in rubber. This Drive Works design may be okay, but your still stuck using those weak split sleeves that tend to distort.
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Their bushings for the other end of the strut rod are blue plastic like above.
Here are the TRW bushings. The rear ones use the same picture as the Drive Works above. Does that mean they are the same part? IDK. The fronts look close to Fords, but without the metal ring molded to the one bushing, but they still use those weak split sleeves. These pics may not even be correct.
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So to summarize, the plastic bushings do this:
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and the weak split sleeves do this:
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That's why I went with original Ford bushings. Plus they weren't too much more in cost compared to these aftermarket ones.
All junk to be avoided.
Here are the Drive Works rubber bushings. Assuming these pictures are correct, they appear to be cut from a solid piece of rubber, unlike the Ford 2 metal pieces bonded togther in rubber. This Drive Works design may be okay, but your still stuck using those weak split sleeves that tend to distort.
Their bushings for the other end of the strut rod are blue plastic like above.
Here are the TRW bushings. The rear ones use the same picture as the Drive Works above. Does that mean they are the same part? IDK. The fronts look close to Fords, but without the metal ring molded to the one bushing, but they still use those weak split sleeves. These pics may not even be correct.
So to summarize, the plastic bushings do this:
and the weak split sleeves do this:
That's why I went with original Ford bushings. Plus they weren't too much more in cost compared to these aftermarket ones.
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7,758 Posts
On my LSC the ferrules were crimped on each side of the bushings. It looks like the bushings and metal retainers (large washer wannabe's) were installed, then the ferrule ends were crimped to retain bushing and the washers.
The only way to get the thing apart was to "uncrimp" (i.e. pretty much destroy) the very thin part of the ferrule...
The only way to get the thing apart was to "uncrimp" (i.e. pretty much destroy) the very thin part of the ferrule...
There's one tiny difference between the 140A and the 140B bushings. The one labeled FRONT (140B) has a smaller inner diameter. It needs a dab of soap and can then be hammered on the rod.
The one labeled REAR (140A) is a looser fit and just slides on and off.
The one labeled REAR (140A) is a looser fit and just slides on and off.
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Original poster:These are the strut rod to frame and strut rod to control arm bushings. Cost was roughly: $12.50 $12.50 $12.50 $6.50
Thas prices are for each side I'm into rebuilt my suspension and I call the Ford parts dealer and they give me this prices:
225AA-$12.82
B271A-$12.82
A140A-$24.78
A140B-$24.78
Make a big total of 74.96 per side can you tell me where do you order it because yours are $44
Thas prices are for each side I'm into rebuilt my suspension and I call the Ford parts dealer and they give me this prices:
225AA-$12.82
B271A-$12.82
A140A-$24.78
A140B-$24.78
Make a big total of 74.96 per side can you tell me where do you order it because yours are $44
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