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I did a temp fix for my Bird with Eibachs to get the camber at "0" degrees, but when I removed 700 lbs from the car, and needed to relower it, I went about a inch lower. With it lowered about 2 - 2 1/2 inches, I needed to do a complete fix for it., and get the camber corrected, and make it easily adjustable for the future.

The horse shoe camber guides were removed, and the slots in the K member were extended 1/2 inch towards the center of the car to allow the lower control arm to move in. After making sure I could go past "0", I turned the ecccentric so the long part was pointed to the outside, then spotted new 1/2 inch wide angle stock to replace the horse shoe guide that was damaged when removed. Turning it this way is to make sure it has full rotation space.

Here is what the finished job looks like.


Full information here:
http://members.tccoa.com/393bird/camber.htm

If you do not go more than 1 1/2 lower, you most likely will not need to do this. If you are using skinny tires, it is not a big deal. If using 245 or bigger, they get too costly to be ruined by not running the camber as close to "0" that you can, unless it is mainly a track car.
 

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drag-aholic
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looks good, there are camber issues with the bagged birds but we need the room down there and can't move in to much. We need longer upper arms.:headbang:
 

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BAGGED89 said:
looks good, there are camber issues with the bagged birds but we need the room down there and can't move in to much. We need longer upper arms.:headbang:
You will have issues if you used longer upper arms unless you put longer lower arms on as well. Of course if you have a bagged bird then I guess it doesn't matter a ton that the car handle real well. :)
 
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