TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
709 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have noticed that when I turn sharp turns at really LOW speeds my front tires squeel like pigs. Usually in parking lots or the drive-thru' and it really sounds like I'm doing a burnout or something? I have also noticed the outer tred on the front tires is balding!! Anyway, I got it looked at and I guess I have a bad UCA, LBJ and outer tie rod end on the passanger side! I can't see how EVERYTHING is bad on the passanger side and okay on the drivers?? But whatever... I'm gonna replace both sides since my car has 150,000 KMs on her anyway.

So I'm gonna buy both UCAs w/ ball joints, both lower ball joints and the tie rod end. It's not so bad for the parts becuase I can get them with the mechanics discount! I however, am not a mechanic and was wondering how hard it would be to change these parts?? What special tools would be required if any and would I need to take out the springs or anything?? Also, instead of buying just the lower ball joints would it be a better idea to spend a bit more and get the whole LCA w. BJ's in it?? When you buy the LCA's do you get the bearing or bushing or whatever it is that conects to the front frame (as in where it pivits at the frame) as well as the BJ ?

God, this is to long...

Jake
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Read my thread as I just did the whole front end.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44893

Get new UCA's LCA's (both have ball joints and bushings installed), strut rod bushings, tie rod ends, etc. I just assembled mine Saturday using the following method: Remove the UCA's, LCA's, Tie rods ends, strut rod bushings, shocks and spindles on both sides. Install the links, tie rod ends, UCA'a and then the spindle to the UCA ball joint. Then the LCA goes on to the strut rod and slides into the LCA to frame bolt location. Install upper shock mount and put the lower shock mount over its mounting spot on the LCA. Bolt it loosly. Then raise LCA and bolt the lower ball joint to the spindle. Install links, tie rods and torque everything EXCEPT the lower shock mounting bolt. Put your calipers and wheels on, lower car, push the front end down a few times, then torque the lower shock bolt. Get an alignment. You are good to go then.

Tools: Must have an 18mm offset box ratcheting wrench ($24.00 at Sears).

Also: Metric sockets (or box/open end): 13mm, 15mm, 18mm 24mm, 36mm, 7 pound sledge, bench vice is handy.

Rent a ball joint/tie rod end removal tool from an auto store (O'reilly's let me borrow a set but I had to leave a deposit).

If you are changing the front shocks, take the spring/shock assembly to a shop and have them reistall the springs over the new shocks.

Myself and a friend tore everything out in three hours. It took us 3+ hours to assemble the new stuff.

Hope this helps. I have the ford shop manual on CD and it was a help.

Tony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
709 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
so the LCA comes with all the bushings that are related to it? That really makes it worth the extra bit of money.

Thanks, your steps should help out a good bit!

Jake
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Jake: Both the upper and lower control arms come with the new bushings and ball joints installed. That makes the job much easier to do. Check Rockauto.com for prices, if the ship to your area.

Good luck!

Tony
 

·
Whining Intakes Rock
Joined
·
3,645 Posts
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top