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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone! Finally got my HID retrofit done. Now I can finally put my RobertP shift kit in, once I get free time. I also have a one piece aluminum drive shaft coming. I really wanna get a traclok and lower gears but I'm afraid 150,000 miles wore out the front end. So, what is everyones experiences, good and bad, with motorcraft, moog, and raybestos? Thanks everyone!
 

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"How about an official suspension parts list thread"

This stickie at the top of this section has all the answers to those questions






And yes after 150k your front end is probably beat up from the feet up and needs a complete rebuild. Hint it is easier to do it all at one time. Nothing has pissed me off more than chasing front end problems. If its all new then it will ride like it. Just dont go cheap
 

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Also read this one-" Things to check if you hear clunking from your suspension"

And this one-" Suspension torque specifications"
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I didn't read the whole "Things to check if you hear clunking from your suspension," but I read the other ones. I didn't see any post that answered my question though. They're great threads with a lot of info but no solid answers. I'm getting one of these three and want to know what is everyones experiences, good and bad, with motorcraft, moog, and raybestos?
 

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Moog - Don't use their strut rod to frame bushings. Only Ford for those. Be SURE to take care of the metal sleeves - they're not available anymore.

For everything else, Ford, Motorcraft, Moog, and TRW are all good. So far my ACDelco choices have been good also.

Raybestos - They have two families, the "We're as good as Moog! We swear so!" professional grade, and the "Quick! Ship it before it self-destructs on the shelf!" service grade.

I'd recommend Motorcraft or Moog, save for the bushings that MUST be bought from Ford as a Fomoco part.

RwP

Edit: I forgot, DLF makes stainless sleeves. You still need the bushings from Ford, though.
 

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If you read the whole thing it would answer your question.

Im running mostly moog with ford strut rod bushings
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Moog - Don't use their strut rod to frame bushings. Only Ford for those. Be SURE to take care of the metal sleeves - they're not available anymore.

For everything else, Ford, Motorcraft, Moog, and TRW are all good. So far my ACDelco choices have been good also.

Raybestos - They have two families, the "We're as good as Moog! We swear so!" professional grade, and the "Quick! Ship it before it self-destructs on the shelf!" service grade.

I'd recommend Motorcraft or Moog, save for the bushings that MUST be bought from Ford as a Fomoco part.

RwP

Edit: I forgot, DLF makes stainless sleeves. You still need the bushings from Ford, though.
AWESOME! You already made my mind up! I appreciate it.



If you read the whole thing it would answer your question.

Im running mostly moog with ford strut rod bushings
I'll have to run through that one and read it all when I have a little more time. Thanks for the links! Moog it is for this guy. Except for the strut rod bushing. And yes, she's getting a FULL rebuild. I've been there chased that way to many times. ;)
 

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I stand behind the professional grade raybestos products without issue, however I wouldn't use their service grade.

Just like I don't mind duralast gold brake pads, but wouldn't be dare use a set of valuecraft. Same deal.
 

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I stand behind the professional grade raybestos products without issue, however I wouldn't use their service grade.

Just like I don't mind duralast gold brake pads, but wouldn't be dare use a set of valuecraft. Same deal.
That was why I was making such a distinction between the two :diablo:

I dunno, I'm staying away from them right now due to the dichotomy they have.

RwP
 

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hehe, yeah I'm doing the same thing right now. my strut arm bushings are TOAST. started to get a really annoying rattle a few days ago going over small bumps in the road. was hoping it would be a torsion link or something simple... no luck

already went ahead and ordered the ford ones to my local dealership. and yes, those stickys are super helpful! Ive seen and read about enough failures of MOOG bushings to not try my luck, even if I'm not driving aggressively. just kind of wondering where I'm going to get my hands on the big washer things. looks like mine are rusted to nothing... might have to buy a moog kit anyway just to get those stupid things XD. ill ask the part desk when I'm getting the bushings about it, maybe they have a part number for them.

the frame bushings however... are like $150 at ford i guess, so I'm gonna pass on those for now, they seem pretty stiff still.

already replaced my upper wishbones with moogs, pretty happy with them so far, love how they have zerks, the motorcraft ones i looked at didnt >.>
 

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bleh, got the bushings but i totally forgot about sockets to get the dang thing off, anyone know what size that nut is on the LCA side, probably somewhere around 24mm I'd guess. other then that, here's hoping the sleeves arnt toast when i get it off >.> washers are still OK but theirs some sort of big round ring on the rear side of the LCA sticking out past the bushing and washer, not sure what that is... kind of looks like a giant lock washer... guess ill find out when it all comes apart :D

also... it IS possible to get that strut arm out of the LCA without unbolting it from the car right? i'm kind of hoping once i get it all loose i can swing the LCA back and off the strutarm, but the more i think about it the more i'm sure it wont work... or ill tear the LCA bushings...
 

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30mm for the strut rod nuts.

And if you're removing the LCA, yes. If not, no. Well, not without running the back, front nut all the way back to collapse the strut to its shortest length.

RwP
 

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that's what i thought... awww well, i guess ill be taking the whole thing out of their >.> hopefully i don't start finding everything else is bad too XD could get expensive fast. guess ill have to figure out how i'm gonna re-torque the LCAs while the cars on the ground. don't really have drive-on stands or a lift to use... well, i suppose i do have some stands i think, but i doubt i could 'drive-on' them since their designed for pickup trucks...
 

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I have dorman control arms on my car. No issues at all. Side by side they are the same. Mevotech is garbage!

But bushings I have moog. Can't go wrong with it. Same with inner and outer tie rods.
 

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well crap, cant say i didn't expect that... my lower balljoints are toast, and my torsion link rubbers are all torn up, but not loose yet. went ahead and put it all back together with the new bushings for now. that thing doesn't move at all anymore. but i have a set of Moog lower control arms coming on Tuesday, as well as the links >.> guess my 'change the bushings' plan turned into a full front end rebuild :D well, at least most of it, those big frame strutarm bushings are pricey... and i replaced my upper control arms years ago. and my struts are in surprisingly good condition.

also, the nut on the end of that strut arm is 15/16... so i didn't have the socket i needed till today. and you pretty much have to break loose everything to have enough room to get that strut arm out of the control arm. but i couldn't get the bolt out of the strut, so we ended up popping it out of the frame and off the spindle and twisting it on the strut.

ended up jacking up the whole car off the stands by the lower balljoint to re-torque the LCA

at least till tues i can enjoy not having that annoying rattle in my passenger side fender well XD
 

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well crap, cant say i didn't expect that... my lower balljoints are toast, and my torsion link rubbers are all torn up, but not loose yet. went ahead and put it all back together with the new bushings for now. that thing doesn't move at all anymore. but i have a set of Moog lower control arms coming on Tuesday, as well as the links >.> guess my 'change the bushings' plan turned into a full front end rebuild :D well, at least most of it, those big frame strutarm bushings are pricey... and i replaced my upper control arms years ago. and my struts are in surprisingly good condition.

also, the nut on the end of that strut arm is 15/16... so i didn't have the socket i needed till today. and you pretty much have to break loose everything to have enough room to get that strut arm out of the control arm. but i couldn't get the bolt out of the strut, so we ended up popping it out of the frame and off the spindle and twisting it on the strut.

ended up jacking up the whole car off the stands by the lower balljoint to re-torque the LCA

at least till tues i can enjoy not having that annoying rattle in my passenger side fender well XD
On my Mark VIII (same bushings), I just did my strut-to-LCA bushings today; the nut is 17mm I think on that end, the other end (strut-to-frame) was bigger - probably the 15/16" you're talking and I just loosened it with a small pipe wrench. LOL

Turned out my strut-to-frame bushings were fine, so I put those back on and replaced the strut-to-LCA bushings; they cost me $21.44 for the MOOG K8680 set with discount from Advanced Auto.
 

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yeah, i didnt even have a good crescent wrench. my dad has all his tools at work where he needs them. so when i need to do something, we usually have to drive into town and get what we need from his work >.> all i have is a Craftsman 200 piece ratchet set and some other odds and ends myself... so far :p

also I've read nothing but bad reviews and complaints on those Moog problem solver bushings. especially from here on the forum, so i got the Ford originals to be safe. we sell them at my work, and i opened a box to take a look, and they seem SUPER hard and really cheep looking. nothing beats a good piece of steel reinforced rubber.
 

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yeah, i didnt even have a good crescent wrench. my dad has all his tools at work where he needs them. so when i need to do something, we usually have to drive into town and get what we need from his work >.> all i have is a Craftsman 200 piece ratchet set and some other odds and ends myself... so far :p

also I've read nothing but bad reviews and complaints on those Moog problem solver bushings. especially from here on the forum, so i got the Ford originals to be safe. we sell them at my work, and i opened a box to take a look, and they seem SUPER hard and really cheep looking. nothing beats a good piece of steel reinforced rubber.
The Moog are problems? I thought those were the ones to buy - if it wasn't for that I could have bought the cheaper ones (MOOG was almost $40 before discount)! Well, I did the driver's side today and now it's finally done! Now I have to go get an alignment.

You should have seen me take out those strut rods - you would have said I was one of three things: Crazy, Stupid, Funny or maybe a combination of therein. After removing the nuts, I put a bottle jack between the tow tag on the frame and the outer tie rod. I jacked the LCA back that way until I could get the strut rod out!

It worked is all I have to say..... :cool:

EDIT: Oh, I saw Ralph's post #5 above about not using MOOG Strut-to-Frame bushings. I didn't change those after all because the ones that were on the car were in great shape. I only changed the Strut-to-LCA bushings and the new ones (MOOG said "improved design") were MUCH better than the ones I took off (which I think were original, they were broken up rubber with attached steel in the middle). Also, the MOOG are a nice pretty blue! rofl
 

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You may want to re-read that :diablo:

RwP
I can always count on you to catch my mistakes, Ralph! Thanks and I fixed it. :D
 
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