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@XR7-4.6 , ok, I'm liking this idea more and more...

One thing I don't understand: why would a 4-pin relay not work, yet I'm leaving 87 open (so I'm only using 4 out of 5 pins)?
Because 87a is normally closed, where 87 is normally open. The way you’ll wire this is the ignition power will pass straight through it to the DRLs without the relay coil being energized at all. Only when you flip on the lights will the coil energize and switch the lead from 87a to 87, which will then shut off the DRLs as desired

Also, would there be any harm in using the low-beam lead as a trigger instead of the parking lead?
No harm, it would work the same, but that would mean the DRLs will not turn off with parking lights and will come back on with high beam.

And finally, you mentioned adding a fuse earlier. Where would I do that? Consider that we're talking about two LEDs with a total output of 3.4 Watts; isn't that minuscule?

(Sorry, I'm a total newbie at this.)
For me it’s far less about the power draw than it is the shorting hazard, when you set up a typical relay circuit you’re taking a “fresh” source of 12v ideally straight from the battery to power whatever it is you want powered, and if it shorts from an accident(which being for lights is at the most vulnerable place) there’s no thing to stop sparks and a potential fire from starting, so adding a fuse is necessary, always placed towards the power source.

As for weatherproofing relays are pretty weatherproofed as is, the terminals are more exposed than a weathertight connector but once together they don’t really need much protection, just glob on some dielectric grease and you’re good to go really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
@XR7-4.6 , thank you so much for all your help. Before you chimed in, I was actually ready to just settle for making these lights supplemental turn signals - better than nothing.

But now I'm definitely liking the idea of using a relay. The only thing that I haven't figured out yet is where to pull the ignition power from. I really don't want to touch any powertrain or emissions components. I was thinking of doing a fuse tap; for example, the fuse for the rear defroster should be hot with ignition ON only. Unfortunately the fuse box is extremely tight.
 

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@XR7-4.6 , thank you so much for all your help. Before you chimed in, I was actually ready to just settle for making these lights supplemental turn signals - better than nothing.

But now I'm definitely liking the idea of using a relay. The only thing that I haven't figured out yet is where to pull the ignition power from. I really don't want to touch any powertrain or emissions components. I was thinking of doing a fuse tap; for example, the fuse for the rear defroster should be hot with ignition ON only. Unfortunately the fuse box is extremely tight.
The red wire for engine accessories wouldn’t necessarily be my first choice but there are others, the origin of that is from the CCRM which gets switched ignition power from the underhood power distribution box, I can’t exactly remember the color off the top of my head(it’s either yellow or red/green), which I’ll look up later but that one would be ideal. It’s fused, it’s under the hood and the wire is larger gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
So to put this thread to rest, I ultimately went with Option 1 (dual front incandescent turn signals with LED rear turn signals/brake lights). Clarification: My CHMSL still uses incandescents, so cruise control isn't affected.

This was the simplest modification to do quickly; however, come some more free time, I may still go the relay + DRLs route.

I definitely learned a lot in this thread; so thanks to everyone who chimed in.
 

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Am I correct in believing that if you have leds in the brake lights your cruise control wont work? Because there is not enough of a current draw to detect through the brake on/off switch? Also, if that is correct, wouldn't it also affect the torque converter unlocking when you tap the brake?
I may be wrong.
 

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Am I correct in believing that if you have leds in the brake lights your cruise control wont work? Because there is not enough of a current draw to detect through the brake on/off switch? Also, if that is correct, wouldn't it also affect the torque converter unlocking when you tap the brake?
I may be wrong.
It only affects cruise, the brake on/off switch sends 12v to the PCM the brakes are applied and that’s all it cares about, it isn’t impedance monitoring like cruise for some reason does
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
@3_97_sports , I'll edit my post to be clearer. What I meant by rear LEDs were the corners only. The center high-mounted stop light still has incandescents, so my cruise behaves normally.

I did test this though simply by disconnecting the center light, and indeed cruise control was disabled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
OMG, I just had a midnight epiphany: I realized I didn't even need an ignition/ON feed.

Here is how I could wire the relay for DRL use:

  • 87a: lead to LED bright element
  • 87: unused
  • 30: parking light lead
  • 86: low-beam lead
  • 85: ground
The resulting behavior would be this:

  • Ignition ON (but headlight switch OFF): no lights
  • Headlight switch PARKING ON: parking lights + LEDs running on the bright and dim elements. I would have the same daytime light output as described under Current Status in my original post.
  • Headlight switch LOW BEAM ON: low beams + parking lights including LEDs running on the dim element only.
This would alleviate my original concern that the LEDs were too bright at night. I'd have to manually turn on/off parking lights for daytime driving, but I'm ok with that.

@GreenT , this would also take into consideration your wish to have control over the DRL function (rather than fully automatic with ignition on).

As @XR7-4.6 pointed out, when using the high beams, the LEDs would run on the bright element. That doesn't seem to be a concern though.

I wish I had thought of this before going with the basic dual turn signal setup...ugh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Yep that’ll work, I figured you wanted the traditional DRL function where only the DRLs are on
Well, what I want is subject to change. But yes, the initial idea was that of traditional DRLs.
On the other hand, DRLs in certain countries actually include taillights; it does make good sense, e.g., when driving into a dark underpath in bright sunlight, so that you don't become invisible for traffic behind you.
I was also not entirely sold on the idea of not having a switch; there may be that odd occasion where I want the lights to be off with the ignition on - who knows.
 

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If you want to get really interesting look up the "switchback" bulbs. Plan to use them when I replace the headlights, going to wire White to run with the headlights, and have Amber flash with the side corner lights. I believe I saw someone here had that setup; it may have been on the facebook page.
 

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I like the Zevo as well, have them in the corners and the taillights. Wish they made a switchback style but probably isn' going tot happen being a large company. They stick to only OEM style and DOT approved. Their LED fog lights replacements have a large disclaimer on the box to only use in foglights, not in the headlights. Doesn't stop people obviously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Their LED fog lights replacements have a large disclaimer on the box to only use in foglights, not in the headlights.
I know. They do have 9007s. My issue with those is that the fan would be exposes in our cars. In most newer cars, the light assembly is inside a larger assembly, so the fan would be behind the dust cap.

The problem with switchbacks is that during turn signaling, the white (parking light) is momentarily off. And assuming that's your only parking light, now your car is (momentarily) missing a required piece of illumination.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I love the ZEVOs in the taillights but I found the ambers for the front very disappointing, they’re almost invisible on a sunny day, it’s kind of surprising they’re DOT approved, I ended up going to silverstar incandescents
Interesting you say that. I have the red Zevos in the back currently and love them. I did try the amber Zevos in the front and didn't hate them; I just figured they weren't worth the money so I kept incandescents. But if I were to go to LEDs in the front, I would get Zevos.

Speaking of which, since I'm going to one front turn signal bulb per side, and Zevos in the back, I installed a flasher EP34 today to prevent fast flash, which works great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Alright...this thread took a bunch of turns. I guess I should rename it again, if that's still possible days later.

So here is my day for you all. And may I repeat: thanks for all the help. I'm loving this community.

Looking Messy


Looking Less Messy


Painting by Numbers


Parking Lights (LEDs on bright = my DRL alternative; strictly speaking, the LEDs are on bright and dim)


Low Beams (LEDs on dim)


High Beams (LEDs on bright, which isn't really functional but inevitable; note that LEDs remain dim during flash-to-pass)
 
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