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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I had a quick question regarding a repair I had done a couple days ago, (sorry if the
pictures are bad, I'm doing this all off my blackberry).

So I trust my mechanic and I go there all the time for repairs I can't do. Recently I had the drivers
side lower ball joint replaced, I decided to check out the work that was done just to make sure it
looks good, but it looks strange to me. Why is this welded? It doesn't seem like it should be... But I
have never seen one replaced before...
Anyway, does this look repaired properly...







Sorry if the pictures look bad, hopefully you can still get an idea as to what was done there..

Thanks a lot guys appreciate it!
 

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The lowers are supposed to "press" in.... I've never seen it done like that.. I think I would INSIST on an explanation..

Welding will cook the grease that was in there and quit possibly warp it to the point of making things bind...

If the lower control arms were beat up so bad they wouldn't have held a new ball joint it should have been replaced, NOT welded....



I think I would be looking for another mechanic,, actually I KNOW I would...
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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I could be mistaking this for an upper arm issue but I seem to recall one of the cheapo brand control arms/balljoints have too much tolerance for a real press fit.

Personally I wouldn't drive ten miles on that. In addition to the possibility of warping the joint and arm it could have been weakened during the welding.
 

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I could be mistaking this for an upper arm issue but I seem to recall one of the cheapo brand control arms/balljoints have too much tolerance for a real press fit.

Personally I wouldn't drive ten miles on that. In addition to the possibility of warping the joint and arm it could have been weakened during the welding.
The uppers come made into the upper control arm, at least any I have seen were...

That just scares the h*** out of me, the arm could crack from the heat.. Also, to add to my previous post, that dude needs to LEARN how to weld!!!!

One thing for sure if you ever have to replace the lowers again it "will" be with a control arm..... as it should have this time if it was that worn... I wonder if he even used the "correct" ball joint.......
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow I am glad I posted this. I paid for a NEW lower ball joint replacement. I can't even tell what they did, I'm
definitely going back tomorrow then or possibly right now. Does anyone have a picture of what a replaced one should look like? I assume like factory, and that does not look like the passenger factory lower ball joint..
Thanks a lot guys for the very quick replies.
 

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Ball joint


Control arm with ball joint

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks a lot man! Yeah I don't really think any suspension component should be welded, like wtf. It bothers me
because I was pretty loyal to them, but after seeing this, I'm pretty disappointed, I'm anxious to see what they
tell me. The car still rattles a tad from that side so I'm thinking it could be because of that. Ill probably head
down there in an hour or so. Ill let you guys know what he says lol.
 

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I don't know if this is your rattle or not but:

Both of my birds have a little clunk when hitting potholes, it is the (can't remember what it is called) thrust bearing at the top of the front struts.. With a pry bar you can "feel" a little lost motion but it's not enough to be able to see it.. The 97 has been doing it for the last 75,000 miles and hasn't gotten any worse.. My 93 just started doing it..
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I hadn't even of thought of checking there, that is definitely something to look at, thanks man. I think I'm going to go and head down to the shop now. I can easily see them saying that its supposed to be like that or something though. Not sure what to do if they say that... I'll have to end up getting the whole arm replaced now.


EDIT: Looks like I'm going tomorrow, just went there now and they're already closed for the day....
 

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I would say if you were in the Chicago area bring it over by me and I would hook you up. As far as what to do with the ball joint go back with someone after getting a second or even a third opinion and scream til it hurts make them pay for the repairs somewhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, I went there today, and this is the explanation that I was given:
That the ball joints now call for a tack weld (that's clearly not a tack weld but whatever) on 3 sides on the balljoint now. There was an update to them that made that be a requirement for installation. Apparently all the dodge trucks and F-150's already require that.

Now I don't know the truth to this, I took a picture of what he wrote down as the part number for what he installed, I don't know if any of you have installed this one, or if anyone can pull up installation instructions, but I'd like to see where it says this requires a tack weld.



Apparently the balljoint is greasable and wouldn't cook the grease, and wouldn't affect the arm, APPARENTLY... For all I know he could be bsing, but apparently that's what they call for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The part # is actually K8477.
Yeah it seems like bs to me. I did a quick search on tack welding balljoints, and it seems like people do it, because with the balljoints pressed in they seem to have slack and slop around a bit.
Idk where to go from here now lol.
 

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looks like a good way to wreck a moog ball joint and a ford control arm at the same time.
 

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looks like a good way to wreck a moog ball joint and a ford control arm at the same time.
Agreed. I found when I was rebuilding my suspension last year that its the same price for new bushings for the old LCAs as it is for all new LCAs. The best bet is just buy the new parts with new bushings pressed in.

That jerrywelded ball joint looks terrible...
 

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Welding "may" be the "new" standard, But I can guarantee you it WILL NOT be happening on anything I own or drive..

You know, quality workmanship is a thing of the past.. Just cobble it and call it good!!!
 
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