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Discussion Starter #1
How the [email protected]#& do you get the strut bolt out of the big fat bushing it's stuck in? Does it thread out, or do I bang heck out of it with a hammer? Have had the struts since winter and need to get car running for daughter to take to college in three weeks.:confused:
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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You're talking about the lower shock to control arm mounting bolt? PB Blaster, hammering and twisting should work. If it goes too slowly for you, hammer and twist until you can see the bolt get thinner (about 1/2 to 3/4" out), saw the thick part off, and hammer it out the opposite way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK - I just didn't want to strip out any threads if they existed. If its just stuck I can wail at it. The bolt head is starting to round off, so I didn't want to wreck it in case there were threads and I had no choice but to turn it. Maybe a little torching before the Blaster to suck it between the bushing and the bolt thru capillary action?
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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You don't want to torch it or you'll burn up the rubber bushing. If you go that route, be prepared to replace the entire control arm.
 

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I could not get mine loose so I replaced the lower control arms. Sure made it ride better.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
big hammer, PB, prybar and wrenching, with liberal cursing and two hours did it. now i'm wrestling with the upper control arm pinch bolt which won't come out either.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Here's a hint for that one too, at least this is what I've done to multiple successes in the past. Soak it up from all angles in PB, then stick a crescent wrench onto the square head of the bolt. Rock the bolt back and forth to loosen it up a few dozen times, then try whacking it out with a hammer. You might need to soak it in Blaster and go through the rocking routine a couple times before it finally loosens up. You might also want to find the biggest/longest crescent wrench to use because sometimes those bolts are really stubborn and don't want to break free. I used a 10" crescent with and old pipe over the end to amplify the torque.

Once you get the bolt out you'll probably have issues getting the end of the ball joint out of the spindle. For that I used a tie rod end lifter, those things are indispensable when it comes to ripping apart sticky suspension components. http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-61900-Joint-Lifter/dp/B0002SRDRI
 

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big hammer, PB, prybar and wrenching, with liberal cursing and two hours did it. now i'm wrestling with the upper control arm pinch bolt which won't come out either.
That one has always been easy. Hammer a wedge into the slot and then hammer the bolt out. Maybe that is to get the ball joint loose. I have to remember.
 

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That one has always been easy. Hammer a wedge into the slot and then hammer the bolt out. Maybe that is to get the ball joint loose. I have to remember.
Thank god for being Southern, lol.
:D
 

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Thank god for being Southern, lol.
:D
I was thinking the same thing. A little wack with a hammer and mine came right out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update: Left side all done and replaced, new record for cussing. Working the right side now - had to cut the bottom of the strut off cause the bolt was frozen solid to the bushing which was turning along with everything. Metal sleeve with bolt attached is now out of the control arm, and the question is - do I replace the whole bushing, or try to get the bolt out of the sleeve and put the sleeve back in the bushing? Or do I have to replace the whole lower control arm now? And who had the bright [email protected]##$% idea to leave zero clearance between the upper control arm bolt and the A/C evaporator? !!!!!
 

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Update: Left side all done and replaced, new record for cussing. Working the right side now - had to cut the bottom of the strut off cause the bolt was frozen solid to the bushing which was turning along with everything. Metal sleeve with bolt attached is now out of the control arm, and the question is - do I replace the whole bushing, or try to get the bolt out of the sleeve and put the sleeve back in the bushing? Or do I have to replace the whole lower control arm now? And who had the bright [email protected]##$% idea to leave zero clearance between the upper control arm bolt and the A/C evaporator? !!!!!
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/K8604.oap?year=1995&make=Ford&model=Thunderbird&vi=1140567&keyword=lower+control+arm+bushing&pt=02936&ppt=C0106

for my money

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/K80055.oap?year=1995&make=Ford&model=Thunderbird&vi=1140567&keyword=lower+control+arm+bushing&pt=C0318&ppt=C0106

That bolt is easiest with a ratcheting wrench.
 

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1994 Tbird - JO'Neil long block, TFHS trans, Quarterhorse tuned
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I bought a ratcheting closed end wrench for that upper control arm bolt. Worth the money unless you have lots of time and patience. Recommend you replace the lower control arm if that bushing is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
bought a moog bushing for the strut mount that should be fine. got a c wrench on the inboard upper arm nut and a six-point socket on the bolt and it came right out. and for once, installation WAS the reverse of removal!
 

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Just figured I'd throw my 2 cents on the lower shock bolt - kroil and an air hammer. Piece o' cake!

Tried PB blaster and a rubber mallet about 15 times over the span of a month, didn't budge. Kroil and an air hammer...first time, bolt went flying.
 
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